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60north

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Everything posted by 60north
 
 
  1. the thickness of the rings are different, if you hold the rings in the piston groove you will see which one goes where
  2. one of the holes in the rubber should line up with the mudguard mounting holes, i glued mine in place otherwise it falls off if you remove the tank and mudguard together
  3. as said above, do a compression first and as a ballpark figure from when i rebuilt my engine was 195psi after rebuild, and 120psi before rebuild. the piston and rings are no longer available from gasgas, but you can fit S3 piston then have cylinder re-plated to suit new piston
  4. you may have the domino fast action throttle fitted which has a white tube, and can be changed for a slow action which has a black tube, i'm pretty sure thats all you will need
  5. you can download the ty350 service + workshop manuals from here http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html 250 and 350 are the same except the bore & stroke + carb jet sizes
  6. download the 2001 parts manual from here, http://www.trialspartsusa.com/GASGASmanuals.html and this may be the washer you need http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_63&products_id=1952 hope this helps.
  7. kickstart spring has just needs slotted back into place on kickstart shaft, it's tricky to see as it's behind the washer on shaft. had same happen to me
  8. hi slogger, i made mine out of threaded rod, m14 if i remember but best check first. i cut rod to length then welded a nut on each end and use socket with ratchet.
  9. the hex bolt is 22mm across the flats and steel bar is 600mm long so can be done with forks extended if necessary
  10. hi wacky, the wheel, disc and caliper are taken from the fantic 243. i use ebc fa099 pads, dimensions are 31.5 x 52 x 5.5mm. goldfren 120 pads is another i have used in the past. if you fit a fantic disc the mounting holes will have to be countersunk to allow clearance for the shirty bracket, i fitted a new/old stock disc last year and found no improvment in braking, hope this helps
  11. i use the same method as cumberland + soften the fork seal with a hot air gun first
  12. hope it starts j13me, and remember when using the choke, dont touch the throttle because it will alter the cold start fueling. good luck
  13. hi j13me, this is a link for the info on the 95/96 GG250. http://mypage.direct.ca/b/billyd/ggman.pdf i found the best way to bleed brakes/clutch is to reverse bleed from the bleed nipple back to the resevoir using a large syringe full of dot 4 fluid. you may have to do the rear brake several times as their a pain to get right
  14. hi guys, i i used to find it awkward while wearing gloves to turn off the choke on my bike, so i drilled a small hole in the lever & fitted a tiny cable tie to pull on to turn the choke off.
  15. hi yorick, you can download the service and workshop manuals for the ty350 from this web page, http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html they are the same bikes except the cc and perhaps the carb jets.
  16. hi strong_lyk_bull, this topic should help you. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/41818-trials-newbie-advice-appreciated/
  17. hi kawarex, it sounds like the 5mm ball bearing has fallen out of the clutch shaft tube causing the slave cylinder piston to touch the engine casing when you pull the lever. if you remove the slave cylinder push the piston fully in (you may have to remove the reservoir cover to release pressure), then remove the clutch shaft and tilt bike over slightly watching if the ball bearing rolls out. hope this helps. ps, i could measure my clutch shaft if reqd
  18. hi, no just turn the carb upside down with the weight of the floats resting on the needle then measure the height. might be worthwhile to remove the needle and inspect for wear or it may just need a clean. hope this helps
  19. Hi, the manual says float height is 22mm plus/minus 1mm.
  20. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/41818-trials-newbie-advice-appreciated/page__p__305064__hl__+water%20+pump%20+seal#entry305064
  21. hi Craig, sorry i cant help with changing the rivet/selector, when i took the photo of my selector i was trying to improve selecting neutral. but if you remove gear lever and remove any muck on exposed shaft to protect the oil seal, you should be able to pull the shaft out letting you see if its a solid rivet which will have been peened over, or a hollow point rivet which has its edges rolled over like a flange. there are a lot of knowledgeable Gas Gas guys on here so maybe someone could tell you the correct procedure.
  22. hi zerorev3rev4, this is a workshop manual for the ty350 mono, http://northover.com/Bike/YamahaTYManual.htm
  23. hi Craig, i think you have found your gear selection problem. there should be no sideways play on the rivet. only loose enough for the spring to hold the selector claw on the selector pins. as to how it bent is probably a hard knock or possibly a heavy boot due to severe clutch drag, if your clutch works well you will be able to start bike easily in gear with engine hot and not creep forward.
  24. hi craigh88, the side casing can come off complete with pump, i fitted a new updated pump kit last month and used this video as a guide, hope it helps you too.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmSkJCII0fY&lr=1
  25. hi Craig88, there are 2 C3 bearings, the outer bearing (nearest impellor) had a metel shield, the bearings i fitted were 6000-C3 2rs. 2rs means 2 rubber seals, i just removed 3 of the seals and fitted the bearing with one seal nearest the impellor, the impellor is normal anti-clockwise thread and best unscrewed after the shaft has been pulled out, you will also need very small circlip pliers to remove shaft. i found on my bike the clutch cover was a very close fit to the frame and a pain to remove and would like to know if you had the same prob? i fixed the clutch drag on my bike by sanding the clutch plates & slipper rings with p360 grit paper using a mirror as a flat surface then sanding smooth the wear marks on the clutch basket. a couple o points to be careful of are, dont loose the ball bearing out of the clutch pushrod shaft & ensure the kickstarter spring is in its slot on the kickstart shaft, if you dont the kickstart jams when you fit the cover. i found this out the hard way.. ha
 
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