moulder75

Sorry, can you explain what you mean by 6mm preload? Is that 6mm compression shorter (using the c spanner) from the total (uncompressed) length? What colour was the spring? Thanks for the info Im off into the shed to go tinker.... Tony

Billy - Now that the old chap is grafting them back together with aluminium and pop rivets I can splash out lol. Anyone got an Ohlins hints and tips?

Have been riding with my new ohlins rear shock for a few months but thought I should set it up in accordance with the manual. I weight 10.5 stone (approx) and seem to be winding the spring until almost to its tighest point to match the measurments quoted in the manual (wheel off ground length - length when stoof on bike). I have a yellow spring which I thought was designed for people slighly heavier than me hence I would imagine that the spring length would have to be at almost its longest to suit my weight. If anyone has an Ohlins fitted, what is the length of your spring? And did you manage to set it up in accordance with the manual? Cheers Tony PS - The shock feels ok no matter what the spring length is, as to be honest I do not know what is good or bad etc.

I have been running my Hebo tank for a year and it worked fine in Scotland last year. Just poke the Beta breather pipe (Attached to fuel cap approx 3mm dia (OD)) into the end of inlet pipe supplied on the aux tank which is attached to the pipe which goes to the bottom of the aux tank (Like a drink straw). You have to thread the hebo pipe (Black) between the bars and headstock such that it is close to the Beta fuel cap and breather pipe and allows you to rotate the bars from lock to lock with nothing catching etc. This syphens fine on my bike, but I have heard a few stories of this not being 100% effective. This method means that the aux tank empties first and when refueling the bike (Main & Aux) you just pull the fuel cap breather pipe out of the end of the aux inlet pipe. I had this on my 09 Evo and it also works fine on my 2010. I hope this makes sense and helps Cheers Tony

Still not had my letter but I should be a memebr of the official CSMA team with Billy C so should be good news when the snow clears and the post works again round my way.

I have not registered for this championship at the start of the year but was thinking of having a go at the round in Kent. The ACU website does not appear to be very helpful, hence I was wondering if anybody knew of the Kent club website address? Is it possible to ride a round without entering the whole series? Do you really need a minder for expert B? I know that I am going to struggle getting round but want to give it a go as otherwise Il never know if I could ever get round. If anybody wants to see some good crashes they should watch me ride the sections lol. Tony

Quote Depends when the pedals have been made I guess. I think the top lads had a bit of an issue so the pedal now has a little extra bit on each side. Mine was fine before. Pedal has a little bit extra of what? Width? Length? I find it difficult to cover the rear brake when attempting to hop on the back wheel. I still have not mastered it yet lol.

What have the problems been with the rear brake caliper and pedal? I have an 09 250 and was wondering what to look out for if a problem starts on mine? Im riding the manx 2 day hence I dont want the bike to jack in after the

Anyone know if and when the 09 Jitsie riding gear is going to be on sale in the shops? It was mentioned on the TC main site before Christmas but I have not seen or heard anything since? Cheers Tony

I had an 08 250 rev 3 which the gearbox broke in a similar fashion to what desertrat28 experienced. Luckily it was still under guarantee at BVM as it was only 3 months old. This happeneded while the bike was on tickover with no obvious abuse in the past to cause the fault. Beta UK covered all the costs which was very helpful as the break occured 3 weeks before Scotland. After a lot of stress and worry the bike was fixed with a few days to go before Scotland. The bike was then fine unitl I sold it before Christmas. I think my first gear shaft snapped in half taking out a few other gears. Either way credit must go to BVM and JLI for there excellent service and support. Tony

I think I read that there were 365 entries which If my calcualtions are correct means that there will be 95 unfortunate people. Am I right in thinking that there were well over 400 entries last year? Either way good luck to all those that have entered, il be crossing my finger and toes this weekend. Cheers Tony

The suspense is killing me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Theres a very small circlip which stops the bearing being pushed out on both sides. You can use a good vice and some cleverly placed half inch sockets to push the worn bearing out and push and new one in. It took me ages to notice the tiny clip on each side, which is not very obvious. Hope that helps Tony

The website www.manx2day.com stated a few weeks ago that the trial was planned for the weekend of the 23rd of August next year. I am trying to book ferry's and accomodation and I have since seen dates for the weekend of the 29th on the acu fixture list (Posted on this website) and also now on the manx2day website. Can anybody confirm when this trial is going to be held or have any contact details for the organising club secretary? I have tried to email them with no success. Cheers Tony

Yeah I have an enduro front tube. Il probably go for for 7 and 5 and I can always let a little out at the first petrol stop if I think its too hard. Cheers Tony

Riding trial for the second time and had a lot of rear punctures last year. I was thinking of running 10 front and 6 rear. I weigh 10.5ish stone and normally run 3.5 rear and 6 front for normal trials. Any advice welcome. Tony

I have always used stickaflex or black mastick to seal my rear wheel, applying it to each spoke before attaching the rim tape. After this I always put some mastick on top of the rim tape and around the valve seat. This is all good until you snap a spoke and need to remove the tape, but its an evenings work to remove the tape and mastick, replace the spoke and re-seal the wheel. John Lampkin recommended stickflex to me when I was preparing my bike for Scotland.

I am changing the fork seal on my spring (Front Brake) fork on my 08 250 2T. I have done this job a number of times and have made up the necessary tools using odd bits of pipe etc to make it easier. When re-fitting the brass/teflon bush which effectively joins the inner and outer parts of the forks I have encountered a problem. Basically the bush is not a tight fit in the outer fork leg and the inner and outer fork legs seperate very easily when I raise the inner part of the fork upwards. This is all off the bike on a bench etc. I have also noticed that there is a ledge on the outer fork leg that the bush sits on which has a chamfer on it. I am not sure if I have made this chamfer by using too much force to insert the bush into the fork leg, or if it was there all along. I hope this is true as I expect a new outer fork leg would be expensive. When I re-fitted the bush ready for a new fork seal I noticed that it was sat in the correction position etc, suggesting that the bush was sitting on its designated ledge within the fork leg. Therefore the chamfer could be a standard part of the fork leg. I was hoping if it was possible for the bush to have worn making it a loose fit in the outer fork leg. Any thoughts or ideas gratefully appreciated. Tony

I too worship the service from JLI but he said he had no parts or contacts. If he doesnt no then I cant expect him to band over backwards for me. Feel free to ring him like I just did. From his point of view at the factory, the forks are probably purschased and assembled as a complete unit. Either way I was hopeing somebody else had a simialr issue to mine as the internet communicates with a lot more people etc. I have emailed Paioli.com so hopefully they can help. Any contacts or advice gratefully appreciated. Tony

I think I read that its 5.5K brand new. Does that mean the euro has gone up and now the 2T will be around 4k next year? Very nice bike but its a lot of money.

Someone on here must know of a UK paioli parts dealer?

I have just gone to change my fork seals (08 Rev 3 250) and noticed that a rubber bush has split in two on the damper side. This bush is about the size of a 20p coin and 5mm thick and slides over the damper piston rod. It acts as a kind of bump stop for the damper. Beta and BVM do not stock paioli parts, and neither know of a UK dealer of where to get them. Anyone on here know? I have tried searching the forums and google with little success. I will have to make one out of some scrap rubber for now as theres a good trial to ride on Sunday. Tony

Well hopefully the new 09 bike will reveal an all new rev 5. However I expect they will just change the colour of the rear mud guard lol.......again. Tony

Is it me or are Beta holding back on bringing out a new bike since the Rev 3 in 2000. Since its initial launch I think Gas Gas made the Pro and have now drastically changed the frame. Sherco have changed their frame to the black thinner/lighter version and Montesa have launched the 4RT. I know Beta have just launched the Rev 4 but I just wish they would launch a new bike as mental as the Rev 3 when it was launched. The ally frame could easily be developed into a lighter & stiffer design now that they have the financial backing of KTM. Just my thoughts, but I will always stick with Beta and I know the Rev 3 is fine, but a change is always nice. Tony

Well I got home from work fitted my standard speedo last night as the push bike one I bought needed a spacer to get the receiver close enough to the magnet. It did not look like it would last the week. I will go and buy a horn for a push bike tomoroow and fit that. Cheers for the advice Tony