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bogwheeler

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  1. Man, that's too bad about the ankle. Them Sports Ortho surgeons can work wonders though. I haven't seen an Ossa at any of our events yet. Yours will be the first. There an awesome looking machine. However,I don't think its a good idea to park that bike in the living room while you heal like Zippy said. You'll want to ride too soon. You don't want to mess up that surgeons handy work do you! Keep it outta sight so you're not temped. I have plenty of room at my place, so just leave it with me. I'll take good care and wash it after every ride. I promise not to return it until the Doc releases you. And the bike will be fully trained when you get it back !!
  2. On April 26th and 27th Michiana Trials is hosting an event in Ligonier Indiana just north of you. It will be a good size event with riders from Michigan, The Trials Inc. club from Ohio, riders from Kentucky and Canada too. There should be used bikes there for sale. Bring cash and tie-down straps and you might take one home with you. If you don't see what you are looking for, talk to some of the riders, I'm sure there is somebody with one sitting in the barn in good shape that needs to be sold. A lot of bikes from these clubs change hands without even posting it for sale, just word of mouth may get you a good deal. Used bikes are a little scarce around here right now, but you can find something nice.
  3. Hello Mark from Michigan, Ryan Young from RYP made a great video called Trials Training Techniques. It will show the basics from proper bike setup, how / what to practice, how to read a section and so forth. I've been to a couple of his schools and Ryan is great at teaching all things trials. Cut some time off the learning process. Check it out: http://www.rypusa.com/
  4. If the tendon issues in your hands is like carpel tunnel, you might want to try a taller handlebar or a set of Bar Risers. Just 13mm to 16mm rise can make a big difference depending on your stature. It will take some of the weight off your wrists and put it on the pegs (where it should be). There are a few negatives to a tall handlebar, but I don't think you're going to feel that unless you are riding at expert level doing spatters.
  5. Next time you pull the clutch, before you remove the basket nut, take a prick punch and mark the end of the shaft off of center, then right next to that mark, prick punch the nut. When you go to reassemble, tighten the basket nut until the two punch marks line up. The nut torque will be very close to what you had. I use an air impact to remove and tighten the nut. Use short bursts on the trigger. Just remember to turn the air pressure way down when you tighten the nut. You don't need a clutch tool to remove or assemble, just grab the basket with a thick leather glove. Be careful and don't over tighten. I've been doing it this way forever and never had a problem.
  6. I think "Bogwheeler" is a pretty good name. A few trials clubs in the US called themselves Bogwheelers in the early 1970's Central Michigan Bogwheelers, Granite State Bogwheelers, San Diego Bogwheelers...etc. There's also a current MX club in the UK called Bogwheelers.
  7. Sounds like the same problem I had with my 07 Sherco. Went the same route starting with a fluid flush. I removed the slave cylinder and placed a heavy spring against the piston held in place with a c-clamp. I got smooth lever action so I put the slave cylinder back on, same problem, but not as bad. Next I removed the clutch assembly and hand filed all the little grooves off the clutch basket fingers where the clutch plate tabs ride. Then, with small strips of 120 grit emery cloth, using a back and forth action (like buffing your Sunday dress shoes) to polish off the mating rough edges of the tabs on the clutch plates. (I guess this is what they call the Beta Clutch Fix.) This little rework project is not hard to do, but takes a good couple hours just for the sanding and filing alone. I reassembled, filled trans with 75W Maxima MTL. Now the clutch works as good or better than It ever did. A very smooth engagement. No More Creaking!
  8. Break the entire fuel system down, Flush everything,Gas can, fuel tank, clean fuel line or even replace with new, disassemble the carb and soak in a good carb cleaner. Then find a good non alcohol race fuel. I use VP fuel in all my bikes. Its always consistent in quality, does not get stale when stored in a metal can. And no odd looking scum laying in the bottom of your float bowl.Here in the states the pump gas can be crap (depending on where you buy it) for motorcycle carbs. I always use a screened funnel when mixing and filling the tank. You can never be too clean with your fuel. Contamination, stale gas and ethanol/alcohol in the fuel system is the biggest problem I find when working on any small engine.
  9. If my 03 Sherco sits for a month or more, same problem. I just start it, point it at some open property, pull in the clutch, throttle just off idle (or at idle if its a 2.9). and step it into 1st gear. Ride around with the clutch lever pulled in untill the plates release. Takes about 2-3 minutes. After she warms up, my clutch is silky smoooth. Its my bikes way of letting me know I don't ride enough. I tried using Synthetic oil, but it just didn't work for me as far as overall clutch action.
  10. I also own both Gaerne and Alpinestars. Both have their good points and not so good. The Alpine's are more stiff and seem to offer more protection. They feel heavy compared to the Gaerne's If I'm doing more riding than walking,I wear my Alpines. The Gaerne's are a great boot for walking sections. Better traction in the slick stuff. More comfortable for all day wearing. I find the buckle's easy to work. If I'm making sections or cutting a new trail. I wear my Gaerne's. I like the Idea of the sewn on replacable sole of the Gaerne boot. The Alpinestar's are not. I use Sno seal to keep the leather soft and waterproof. However,both boots will leak if you stand in the creek long enough.
  11. Hi Bogwheeler,

    Nice profile photo,I wish you could enlarge it so as to get a good look at it.

    Wayne

  12. I've had Dellorto's on every trials machine except my 02 Sherco. It's Dellorto was changed to a Keihin, along with having the jug ported by Eric Gore and slight mods to the air box to suit the change in carburation. I also run low octane VP race fuel for a more consistant burn and stability. VP doesn't leave any deposits in the float bowl, or go bad when stored in a metal can. With this combination, I have not needed to adjust anything on my Keihin for the last 2 years, But I don't ride at high altitudes either. Throttle response is faster than the Dellorto. Low end very smooth, and will rev to the moon. The Keihin drinks more fuel though. But trials bikes are cheap to feed anyway. Is it worth the cost to put on a Keihin? I think it would be an advantage if you are an Expert/Pro level rider. Or someone like me who just can't seem to leave a bike stock. So if your Dellorto is working good for you? Keep it..They are a great carb as well.
  13. Yes,you are correct,but right now the only tension that holds the the cable and jacket in place is the slide spring in the carburetor. And It really doesn't take much of a tug to pull the jacket out of its nest at either end. And yes, Its easily returned to its position, I'm just trying to avoid that WFO splatter into a tree when it gets snagged/pulled. Its a real eye opener to have your bike leap forward while you're holding the throttle closed!!
  14. Has anyone ever safety wired their throttle cable at both ends? I've had mine pulled out by a tree branch with a WFO splatter into a tree as the result. Today I was test riding a pair of 16mm bar risers on my 07 Sherco when the throttle opened up as I come out of a left turn. The cable is still routed as from the factory and appears to have enough slack, but the slight rise in the handlebars must have been enough to pull the cable end out. So why not just safety wire the cable ends to hold them in place?
  15. Check your spokes.Loose spokes can push against the rim seal band as you ride causing It to leak. When bike sits with no rider, the band stays sealed. Also found an old Morad rim that had a hairline crack or bad weld at the bead area right where the rim was butt welded during assembly.It was nearly invisible and only leaked air when you were on the bike and the crack was at BDC.
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