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mick annick

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Everything posted by mick annick

  1. Did you find anything to fit?
  2. mick annick

    Clubfoot

    Having given it a quick clean there was still something a bit loose inside, so I opened up the other side and found the packing was shot (already removed when I took the photo), so will replace this with stainless wire wool.
  3. mick annick

    Clubfoot

    Had a loud rattle from the back of the bike (Alpina 213), so pulled off the rear silence and give it a shake - something heavy adrift inside. I thought I’ve nothing to lose so took the disc cutter to it: Having fished it out it appears to be the same size as the lower tailpipe, but where does it belong?
  4. Dave will have most of what you need, or Ivan Cirre, though don’t rely on what the website says, email them or call - Gemma speaks English. There’s another Spanish supplier I’ve had dealings with that I won’t touch with a barge pole again, I won’t shame them publicly but beware...
  5. I know you’re now sorted, and theirs communication isn’t great, but as Woody says email Gemma, she speaks good English and is really helpful, I met her and Ivan 2 years ago when I drove down there to collect my Alpina I bought from them.
  6. I’m not a regular visitor here, but for what it’s worth I do agree with the OP that there’s little talk of actual events and competing which is regrettable, though presumably it’s because few find it of interest? I think the technical discussions are a valid and much needed part of the forum, as time goes by we risk losing knowledge if the exchange of information is not maintained, I know from recent personal experience how hard it is to find basic technical information on some of the more popular bikes from the 70’s, and have been helped greatly by other members here. Trials is tough on machines and even those with bikes only a few years old need some support to keep them going and thus compete. There’s no easy answer save to say if you’re not happy, post on the stuff that interests you and hope that others join the conversation.
  7. OK, have crawled over the (earth) floor of the workshop and found the ball bearing, normal service has been restored. Thanks for all the help folks!
  8. No problem, thanks for the help Antonio
  9. Sorry, to be clear do you mean the ball bearing in the actuator shaft or is there one the other end too? If so that may be the problem, the actuator rod fell out when I had the bike on its side and I may have lost it
  10. didn’t see one when I took it apart. I’m going to adjust the cable (I didn’t clock the how it was adjusted when I stripped it) and see what that does
  11. Ball bearing definitely there, is there anything that could have fallen out when I had the bike laid on its side?
  12. I think I’ve given myself a clutch problem - I’ve had the timing side cover off whist I’ve been doing some rewiring, put it back on this morning but now the clutch doesn’t feel right - lever is very sluggish to return and feels much too light. I stripped, cleaned and regreased the actuator arm but suspect I may have lost something - the pushrod extends 16mm from the sprocket not including the felt washer, but there is 20mm from the edge of the casing to the actuating arm, what have I lost / done wrong? I’ve had a google but can’t find a very detailed drawing of the actuator.
  13. John Brilliant thank you, that’s the same flywheel as mine!
  14. I’ve searched the forum to no avail, so can anyone please tell me what size puller I need for a 350 213 Alpina with a Motorplat flywheel, or how to measure it to get the right one?
  15. I don’t mind what it looks like!
  16. Ooh, yes please, I’d love to keep it original
  17. Graham Thanks, I hadn’t looked there, as you say he is eye wateringly expensive, but may be my only option
  18. I’ve found a couple of old threads on wiring but they don’t fully address my problem... I have an Alpina 213 but the brake and tail lights aren’t working. The bike has been retired (badly) at some point and the resistor is now missing, and they are apparently unobtainable, it also has a brake light switch with normally closed contacts. I’ve had one suggestion which is to fit an LED bulb as they’re more tolerant of fluctuations in voltage, though that would need a normally open brake light switch. I know these are available but I’d like to keep to the original style and position, and am yet to find one suitable. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to overcome this, or a source of the parts needed?
  19. mick annick

    Steve Sell???

    I don’t know, he’s never been easy to get hold of, but if you do please let us know! Mick
  20. Icehopper I bought an ultrasonic cleaner, stripped and cleaned the carb and it’s much better though won’t tickover unless the screw is right in. I’m trying to get some new jets at the moment. Mick
  21. Thanks Carl, I’ll try it that way round - let’s hope it’s that simple!
  22. The guy I bought it from said up for starting, down for running, and once warmed up it runs a treat with the lever down which presumably it wouldn’t if it was being overfuelled by the starting circuit?
  23. Checked the float, it’s fine...
  24. Dark brown, no heavy deposits
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