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boghopper350

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Everything posted by boghopper350
 
 
  1. When I get chance I will remove it and take some more photos. Many thanks for your input so far.
  2. I didn't get chance to have another look this evening due to work commitments. I am however sure that the clutch basket is fully home as it is up against the engine casing, not actually touching just a small gap. I have assembled with and without the woodruff key in place with the same outcome. There were 2 different types of clutch on a 4 speedone type used inner square tabs on the inner steel plates with square fitment on the hub and outer pressure platethe other type used rounded tabs - so the later 5 speed plates can work This is info from Pete at in motion.
  3. Many thanks for your input. The clutch as far as I'm aware is fully home, it's located onto the woodruff key. I will have a look later. It's good to know that the counterweights are interchangeable Woody, I was wondering how difficult it would be to change it if need be. I wonder if anyone has any photos of the area in question to clarify things a little. It is my understanding that there are two different clutchs on the model 10...?
  4. Hi folks. Any help would be appreciated please. I have recently acquired a model 10 engine that seems to have the wrong clutch or counterweight, this is causing a problem because the sprockets don't line up for the primary chain. I think that the problem is with the counterweight, as i think the clutch is correct. It is located on its shaft with a woodruff key, but not 100% sure. If any model 10 experts could chip in it would be appreciated.
  5. Hi folks. Any help would be appreciated please. I have recently acquired a model 10 engine that seems to have the wrong clutch or counterweight, this is causing a problem because the sprockets don't line up for the primary chain. I think that the problem is with the counterweight, as i think the clutch is correct. It is located on its shaft with a woodruff key, but not 100% sure. If any model 10 experts could chip in it would be appreciated.
  6. The law is an a#s. So sorry to hear this.
  7. The frame seems to be a 199b if you post chassis and engine numbers we can confirm whether it is original. The standard engine is six speed.
  8. Try not to "****" the ends with a hammer. Use lots of heating of all ares with a blow torch or heat gun and cooling cycles. Perhaps use a bit of oak or other hardwood on the end of the pivot bar to stop the damage when "********" it, but only when you are happy that things are moving slightly. Most of all be patient plenty of soaking will help as you suggested.
  9. If I were you I would do my utmost to remove the swing arm pivot while you have your bike apart. They can be a right b/stard to remove, but ideally you would at least want to clean the bushes up and get some fresh grease in there.... Sorry, but it will be worth it in the long run.
  10. Electrex do a kit with their own rotor included I believe
  11. It's nice to know that you are going to use it for what it was built for... not leaving in the garage as an "investment". enjoy it. I'm sure you will
  12. Try the usual... new plug, plug cap,trace all wires going right Back to the various components for the ignition and check all connections too (dont forget the Kill switch!. And welcome to the forum, you will find people on here very helpful.
  13. Hi, the ducati ignition from a synt fits and works fine on a zero
  14. It must be a first on here... One post, two frames with dodgy numbers!!! ;-)
  15. My little 250 sherpa, be it model 49 or 91/92 seems to be another classic case of the continuous improvement policy that bultaco employed at the time. Woody, I value your input, I wasn't trying to be funny. Thanks all for your help everyone.
  16. Thanks fellas. All of the input is much appreciated, and pretty much how I see it... but why the strange number stamped on the headstock. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of it. Sorry Woody, the bike in the back ground is a very late model 49, the serial number stamped on the headstock confirms this.
  17. It looks a bit like a modified series1 model 49... or possibly earlier what do you think?
  18. Thanks Woody, It looks like a bultaco frame though doesn't it? And the yokes are off an early lobito... refreshing to see the word yokes!!! I have added some more pics... you can see what's going on in these!! I have taken them in front of my later model 49 for comparison. The shock angle is steeper on the frame, the swing arm mount is a bit crude compared to the m49 and the brace around the headstock is massive also it seem to have earlier footpegs
  19. Good stuff Larry, looks like you are single handedly keeping this post alive atm!
  20. Hi. I wondered if anyone could identify this frame, I think that it is an early model that has had an aluminium bash plate added at some stage. I'm sorry about the poor quality of the pics... i think the autofocus was focusing on the background. i'll try to take some better ones later.The number on the headstock is 618292 This doesn't seem to correspond with any of the bultaco model identification sites.
  21. That should help, I had to use a 3 ft long piece of scaffold tube over a wrench once to get one undone (my air wrench wouldn't touch it!!)
  22. are you locking the clutch mechanism with a locking tool ?
  23. Bitsa... It looks better than my bikes!!!
  24. I have set like this... This guy knows what he's talking about. It's worth a try, they have many combinations of sizes / thread direction.
 
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