squid_on_a_300

Lineaway I thought the same thing...I told one of the guys that I'll check at that event next year! I thought again a fuel issue but the weak spark points to the coil? I'll spring a $100.00 for a new one and see if that thakes care of the issue next year...

No...i rode it all season...the problems happend 1 year apart at the same trial on the same section transfer...bike ran fine for 1 year...

Ok...get this...a little over 1 year ago at a trial with a long loop my 03 300 Pro was acting up..Near the end of the 1st loop it started to sound kind of "dull" then wouldnt take any throttle, bogged out like it ran out of gas and it would not start. I pulled the plug and it was a nice light brown and dry...Figured i had a fuel problem somewhere. DNF'd the event packed up and drove home. Cleaned the entire fuel system. Bike started up and ran great since...Today at the same event, going between the SAME TWO SECTIONS as 1 year ago, the bike did the same exact thing. Deja vu all over again!...Pushed it back to the truck yanked the plug. Nice and tan and dry. Checked for spark...very weak and only on about every other or every third rotation. Got home, checked for spark..nice blue spark. Put the plug in and the bike started right up.... Likely culprit, HT coil or pick up coil?...Im figuring the HT but how can I bench test the HT coil for failure when hot? 2003 300 pro with Kokusan ignition... thanks in advance Squid...

Where you from in PA?

I passed this last month on my way home from a dual sport ride .

I saw one of these at a recent dual sport event...I use trials tires on my woods bikes also...not going to bother trying one of these..the sidewalls were very stiff and the rubber compound seemed hard...going to stick with the traditional trials tire on the woods bikes...I would never consider one of these for the trials bike...

I have been riding in the woods for about 20 years now and had the same idea...get a trials bike to make my woods riding better...did it help? sure..however in the last 2 years i have put more hours on my trials bike than my woods bike...be careful it's fun...you can get hooked..

I bought some light weight mesh/vented jerseys from Cycle Gear. I think I paid something stupid like $13.00 each for them (I bought 4 of them) on sale last summer ..BILT is their store brand and I think the model was the "Free Flow"....That is all I use for trials or woods riding when the temps are above 70 degrees...I sweat like a hooker in a confessional and they really help keep me cooler and they dry out pretty quick even after I soak them. Not sure where your at in NC but they have a couple stores down there or check their website. For the price it's at least worth a try.

The "crunching" noise is most likely your sterring head bearings/races...sounds like they need relapced..you may want to inspect them before you tighten things back up

Call Gerry at Cumberland Cycle Center in Carlisle pa 717-245-0353

Thanks for the reply biff Play between the pedal and the plunger. Originally I thought it may have been a master cylinder problem due to the fact the play went away and I could not depress the rear brake pedal (until it cooled down and the caliper unlocked) .I know how the heat got there (my dragging the brake)..Just seemed strange to me that it would lock and not fade...i'm going to pull the master and the caliper for a good inspection/cleaning.

Last week before the first trial of the year I took the bike out for a pre trial shake down and noticed a soft rear brake. The rear brake would not lock the wheel up no matter how much pressure I applied to the pedal. So I bled the brakes and changed the fluid to fresh 5.1. Much better but not exactly where i would like them. On Saturday i was at our club grounds clearing a new section and took the bike around the loop. About 3/4 of the way through the 3.5 mile loop the rear brake locked up tight...i was using a lot of rear brake and may have also been draggin it a bit.. Could not move the rear wheel and had -0- play in the pedal. After it cooled down it unlocked, play returned to the pedal, the rear wheel turned freely and I now have more rear break than before it locked up. Do AJPs lock up when hot?...I always though brakes faded when you boiled the fluid...

Welcome...you will have a blast...trials is somewhat addicting…I got into it last year and ride the trials bike as much as my enduro bikes anymore. Here are a few local groups for you to checkout http://randtclub.com/PublicLogin.php https://www.facebook.com/randtclub?ref=profile R&T is based out of Frederick Md. Very active club for both trials and off road riders..Out of about 90 members at least 25 of us have trials bikes (all different skill levels). as stated above Mid Atlantic Trials Great club, open membership lots of events spring through Fall. The majority of members are vintage twin shock guys but us modern guys are gaining ground. Great group of guys and a good way to get experience. They have an exhibition class (no scoring) and lines 4 (easiest) through 1 most difficult).at all of their events.

Always make sure your always in neutral choke only when cold and try this...lean the bike against something on the left hand grip to keep it upright..stand on the left peg and give it a full kick from the top of the kick starter engagement.....you cant be lazy ,you have to kick it like you mean it...once you figure out what type of kick it takes to start it, you can do it without leaning it against anything...same idea only now standing on the bike and balancing with your left foot on the peg give the bike the same type of kick you did when it was leaning against something..I had a hell of a time starting mine at first..leaning the bike against something to learn what type of kick it took to start it really helped me...like you I rode enduro bikes for 15 years prior to trials...you don’t kick them like a your other bikes...totally different technique...once you get your technique down you'll be good...

Go for it...it may help you avoid this...About $800 us later i was back on the bike...funny thing is i told myself I was not going to ride the bike until I got one after reading about seizures after a get off...

This method has worked for me in the past.. Clean the stem as much as possible..get all debris off so its as smooth as possible..put the steering stem with the bearing on it in the freezer for about 4 hours..then take a propane tourch and heat up the bearing a bit..try and keep the flame away from the stem. After warming up the bearing quickly turn the stem upside down and with a downward swing give it a sharp wack or two on top of a hard wooden surface (so you dont bugger up the stem threads)...the bearing should drop off. ...you could first try it without the freezing heating step..i have had one just drop off that way... putting the new one on is the same deal...put the stem in the freezer for abt 4 hours and once that is good and cold put your new bearing in the oven at about 65 degrees C for a few minutes...the warm bearing should drop right down on the cold stem without having to drive it on...

Jimmie When you do get a new rear fender replace the metal bolts with vinyl ones...they wil break before the fender..i had vinyl ones in when i tested by kill switch lanyard..the vinyl bolts snapped and the fender just flipped through the air..Gathered up the fender, tucked it in the back of my pants and finished the loop..

I mounted mine on the left side...had a hard time finding them in the states so i ordered it from the Splat Shop. used it once so far..got arm pump in a section and was going over a rock..right hand had stopped working all of the sudden and I wicked the throttle..the bike launched over the rock right at the checker..he dived out of the way and the engine was off before it hit the ground...hope I dont have to use it again!

I had the same exact problem on my 03 gasser until Friday...clutch pack was way out of spec...they don’t make the thinner plates for the early gassers anymore so i replaced it with the 06 and newer style clutch pack.$140.00 US...brought everything back to spec..clutch pull is a lot lighter and the clutch drags is almost non-existent. Mine was so bad before I had to work to hold the bike with the clutch in..I saw a video on you tube where instead of burning the clutch he took the pack apart and wet sanded it. ..interesting fix but nothing I was going to gamble with..

I guess you could say it was today since i finished about 1:30am this morning...new clutch pack..BIG difference from the old swollen out of spec pack that was in it..

follow up Turns out the previous owner did put the upgraded clutch cover on my gasser...he just never switched it over to mineral oil. New clutch in...alot easier pull..hardly any drag compared to before..not that i could really ride it before but i'm going to have to get a little use to less drag now..goin out tomorrow with my club to build some sections in a new riding area. Also ...thanks Jon

Sorry Jon..they are stock 1.5mm plates.....moot point though ..according to Rising Sun Imports the thinner plates are no longer made..so I had to order a new pack..should be here in a few days. With my enduro bikes I was told to soak the new fiber plates in gear oil for a few hours before I install...same here?

Found my problem...pulled the clutch out and the finger height is 12.75 mm and clutch pack is 10.2...now putting in 2 - 1.3mm metal plates will get me to back to spec at 9.8 on the clutch pack I'm assuming that will put the finger height somewhere back in spec...correct?...I was considering getting the 2 -1.3 mm plates and one 1.4 mm just in case...

Harder pull because there is less leverage on the fingers to move the spring, correct? So I guess I should pull it apart first and check the spec on the clutch pack before I do anything as the issue could just be with the thickness of the pac..

I was looking at getting an 06 clutch spring for my 03 300 Pro to try and lighten the clutch pull a bit. My plans were to rebuild the master, the slave and change the spring. The shop I deal with is recommending I upgrade the clutch cover/slave to the 05 cover and convert to mineral oil...In anyone's experience does the upgrade make that much of a difference in clutch pull and clutch action? Or should I stick to my original plan? Any advice would be appreciated