gwl3

I can agree with the previous posts . Andy Kelley ( kelleycarbon.com ) has supplied me with a number of guards for our Beta and Oset trials bikes and the products were top notch . I covered our Beta 80 completely using his guards and the bike was like brand new underneath after 12 months of use . The clutch and water pump combined guard is a definite winner . All hand made in the UK , which to me is great . They're certainly able to take a lot more abuse than those ' fake carbon ' plastic guards on the market . He's also very knowledgeable if you give him a call .

Definately drill ( dia 2mm ) the bolt and use lockwire . I use Goodridge stainless lockwire ( 0.62mm) . I do this on a few of the 'important' bolts on my sons Evo 80 / my 290 , including the kickstart and caliper bolts , rear brake lever clevis pin , brake pad bolts etc . Loctite 243 elsewhere on other bolts . Hope this helps .

The Hope system came individually . The hose was a Goodridge braided stainless that needed cutting to length . It is way , way easier using " cable cutters " to shorten the hose . I tried and failed miserably using side cutters , pliers , junior hacksaw and a Dremmel only for the end to fray every time . Bought a set of cable cutters the next day and one cut had it sorted ! There are other hose materials available but I wanted stainless . I purchased the items from my local mountain bike shop who would've shortened the hoses for me if I could've been bothered to drive the 25 miles back . There were no modifications required and they bled up , from dry , in no time . I just kept the original discs but fabricated my own alloy rear disc guard . Hope this helps

I fitted Hope Evo calipers , Tech Evo master cylinders and stainless hoses to our Oset and it was a decision I have not regretted . The range of pads is good and they last longer . They are extremely well made as the previous post says . I was that impressed I fitted them to our KTM 50 SX as I was sick of the cheap Formula master cylinder playing up . I even fitted the rear brake up onto the handle bar and removed the footbrake , the same as the Oset . Never put a spanner to them all season . They aren't cheap but they are the best . IMO .

............... Should have also mentioned that I have fitted a rim lock to the rear wheel . This makes it much easier for my son to get traction , especially at this time of year . We can run it down to about 5psi now , no problem . Also fitted a handle across the 2 fixing holes for the rear mudguard out of a piece of old ratchet strap , approx. 6" long . As you know , we are forever picking the bikes up and lifting the back end around . This makes it really easy . Saves on snapping the extremely brittle rear mudguard when your moving the bike about in very cold weather too !

We have a 16 R and it doesn't do as you describe . We're on our third Oset and none of them have done that . If I were you I would contact Oset directly . I'm sure they would be happy to help out . They have always been more than helpful when I have had a problem . Just fitted out our 16R in full Kelley Carbon guards to protect the paint , discs , chain etc . Top quality job. I repacked all the bearings with Silkolene RG2 to prolong their life . Fitted a home made rubber mudguard / splash guard to stop mud and filth covering the rear shock . It fastens under the rear mudguard / subframe and drops down to past the motor . I made an alloy bash plate that overly extends rearward to protect the exposed motor casing from rock damage etc . Just finishing the last bracket to use 3 Mecateccno rubber battery covers instead of the Oset " cloth bag " . Hope this helps anyone out .

I suppose it's like everything in life , you get what you pay for .

Yes , Beta EVO 80 . Ours was the medium wheel but i'm sure he can do the big wheel EVO 80 guards too . He does guards for all kinds of bikes and applications . As the previous person said , check his website or give him a call .

If anyone is considering fitting any guards , I can recommend carbon fibre items from KELLEY CARBON . All hand made in the UK . NOT the cheap ABS plastic that cracks and shatters just looking at it !

Just a heads-up if anyone is considering purchasing any carbon fibre guards . I can recommend KELLEY CARBON . Just fitted full frame , swingarm , forks , expansion chamber , silencer and clutch / water pump guards to our Beta 80 . All hand made in the UK , not cheap ABS plastic .

Yes . The swingarm needs split to remove the motor . It's not difficult to do . Far easier to get the lads at Oset UK to overhaul your motor than attempt it yourself . They have the specific tooling to do the reassembly correctly and their prices are reasonable .I believe the final part of the reassembly can test the patients of a saint ! They've always been very helpful with my stuff . Also , as i suggested in a previous thread about washing the motor / bike they will make your motor more water tight .

Oset will supply an oil seal that you can fit to the motors outer flange , where the drive shaft protrudes . This stops the ingress of water and dirt getting to the outer bearing , which sounds noisy when it's on it's way out . Oset can also strip the motor and seal the motor flanges to the motor casing to keep water out . I had this work carried out by them , along with some new SKF bearings and the motor was spot on .

I have a 20" for my 8yr old , he was 7 when I got him it . 100% I made the right decision to go 20" instead of 16" on reflection . Only recently got the controller altered to a lower peak ampage which is a good modification . Fit some Hope brakes , softer springs and a trials tyre rear wheel and your fixed up . I think the 2014 bikes have the option of altering the peak ampage as standard through a dial under the dummy tank . IMO go 20" - 48v . They're a better bike all round .

I was going to buy a big wheel and convert to a medium wheel because they're more plentiful . I compared the dimensions of the 2 are to be honest there isn't a great deal in it . (As a side issue , the 50 and the 80 are basically the same bike .) After you subtract the wheel size difference it's nothing to get excited about . Get your local wheel builder to respoke you a 19" and a 17" rim in to your existing hubs and fit a different rear sprocket and you'll be away . You've still got your original rims , spokes and tyres when he grows out of the medium wheels . I ended up finding a medium wheel near to me so didn't need to do the above . Just my opinion .

I've moved the charging socket from underneath the dummy fuel tank as it was a right pain in the a**e to get to . Especially when you've got big hands . The final straw came when someone , who didn't know what they were doing , snapped a chunk out of it in my absence . I've installed it through the larger of the 2 holes in the left hand side gusset behind the head stock . The small hole has the throttle cable running through it and the larger hole is redundant . It's the perfect size . Installed exactly the same with 2 small rivets . I had to extend the white cable by 2-3 inches ( solder and heat shrink ) so it would reach the harness , the black one was long enough . I just cut a small plate out of 1mm Alu sheet and pop rivoted it over the old hole underneath . I've used blanking grommets to cover the 2 unused holes on the right hand gusset and modified a blanking grommet for the throttle cable to go through on the left side . Stops water etc getting in behind the potentiometer and the 2 speed switch . Installing the charger plug is now 99% easier and I can more or less let someone in my asbsence remove it without breaking it !

I've installed a 1.6 inch rim lock and it works perfectly with the 20 inch Maxxis Creepy Crawlers . Running 4-5 psi with a HD tube , no problems .

I'm going to take the batteries to my local bike shop and get a " drop test " done on them , see if that shows anything up . Checked the wiring as best as I can and all seems fine . Charged it for 12hrs again and it lasted about 30 mins again . Same end result !! Batteries sat at 12.36v after bike has ground to a halt . The little 12.5 lasted for 2hrs on one charge going over the same terrain as the 36v, time and time again . What I did notice tonight was when the 36v charger was working the internal fan was working hard . Whereas the fan wasn't going round on the 24v charger . Looks like a call to Oset uk .

Just got a new 36v Oset . I've been charging the batteries as directed in the owners manual but the battery life seems poor . The life just drops off the edge of a cliff after about 30 mins of general "section" riding in the local flat woodland . Strictly no wide open throttle MX riding . The battery indicators wouldn't go past the 2nd light as the performance dropped off but the bike was crawling at about 3mph . Even when the bike ground to a halt and stopped it showed 2 lights on the throttle . Our old 24v went 3-2-1 empty . Even our new 12.5 out performed the 36v by dong 2 rides on 1 charge as opposed to the 36v 1ride - 1 charge . Any clues or theories would be helpfull . Not going LiPo tho !