heffergm

Do you mean the spacer that the sprocket buts up against? Mine is really in there if so, doesn't want to budge.

Not sure I follow. All I see is the lip seal once the sprocket is removed.

So I just pulled my front sprocket and had a look, and it's definitely the countershaft seal that's bad.

Let me know what you find... all the Vertigo's I've seen with any hours on them have the same mess there (depending on how often they're getting cleaned). I suspect it's all the same source, so I'm curious what you can find. I'll take a look at mine as well. I also have a theory that it might be fuel, since I seem to be getting a lot of that out the cap, but again, need to take a better look.

Anyone else getting a lot of what seems like oil around the shifter? It almost looks like the countershaft seal is leaking, but I haven't confirmed the source yet. Another vertigo here shows the same thing.

Yeah, and look how well that worked out!

I think he dabbed at the top on the way out after the last little stump. Oops.

I think we need to remember that observers at Nationals and, yes, even world rounds, are generally local club members (or at least that's the case around here). And even the sections that have one relatively experienced trials rider in them are usually assisted by anyone he managed to get ahold of to help out (i.e. people that don't really know trials). Expecting any of them to stop a pro doing something they're not even sure is illegal is a bit of a stretch.

Why are we inventing horrible automatic scoring systems when there's a very clear way to fix the ambiguity of no-stop rule enforcement? It's called a 90 second section time limit, and then do whatever you want to get through the section. No more ambiguous scoring enforcement.

Interesting... the clearance back there is obviously tight even with things aligned correctly. What I find weird is that my chain doesn't really line up with the chain slider on the swingarm, and it's like that all the way from the front sprocket. So obviously it's not just the chain tensioner being bent (although I did pull it off and bend it out enough that it'll stop hitting the washer).

I'm amazed anyone got called for a stop in a Japanese GP, unless it was a pretty legit stop (hung up on an obstacle, rollback with a foot down, etc). I mean, look at the sections. For the upper level guys they're not possible to ride no stop. For the lower level guys yes. There are plenty of videos on youtube illustrating the point now... I still haven't seen a section where no one stopped, and if they five'd all of those they'd have had no one with anything but five's all day.

Could someone take a peek at how much clearance they have between the chain tensioner bolt where it screws into the swingarm and the chain itself? Mine was rubbing, and I'm assuming I bent the tensioner, but I don't see any obvious damage.

They're all called 'Combat': the Combat Camo Works is the green Hulk, the Combat Ice Hell and the Combat Titanium R are the full model names.

Figured as much. Thanks!

So... I'm at a loss. It seems to me that once you disconnect the lower linkage connectors, removing the 'axle' bolts should more or less do the trick. But of course it doesn't, and I'm starting to think perhaps there's a special tool required (or maybe just a large bolt of the correct pitch) to thread into and remove the pieces that Vertigo refers to as the swingarm semiaxis. Anyone had their off?

Wow, ancient thread resurrection...

Look at Toni's legs in the podium ceremony. Until some other kids start training like he does and also happen to have the natural talent he does, no one is going to touch him. I suspect Toni retires before anyone threatens his dominance.

Should I feel insulted?

I would never again use anything other than Silkolene Comp Gear in a GG. It's so much better than anything else I've used in a GG it's hard to believe.

Meh. I started on a 300. At idle they're all the same!

My, aren't we argumentative this evening. The fact that I think a 10 is appropriate and you think a 9 is more so shouldn't really cause things to devolve into name calling. To the original poster: feel free to try both, it'll only cost you and extra $21 or so.

Yeah, that's what the 10 is for

In my humble opinion... put a 10 tooth front on it (stock is 11, which is ridiculous... it's the only trials bike geared so tall), then leave it alone. I started on a 300. You'll learn throttle and clutch control really fast, or you won't, at which point you can ice your backside and take a few minutes to put a slow twist throttle on it. Between the gearing change and the slow throttle (if you go that way), it'll feel a lot more manageable. In the stuff that novices ride, I'm not really of the opinion that putting a 250 top end in it makes any difference. If you get it wrong, it doesn't really matter if you're on a 300 or a 250, either one is going to disappear out from under you equally quickly.

Not that it helps, but I'm going to take this moment to re-iterate that that is the worst oil drain bolt ever fitted to a motor. Mine got hung up on some junk that came out of the motor during an oil change when it was being threaded back in an damaged the threads. Luckily the bolt came back out, so the cover just had to come off to re-chase the threads from the other side. Maybe you can get at it that way?

That's what the sight glass is for. Start with 350. Check level. Fill to 3/4 the way up the glass.