heffergm

The short answer is it depends, but probably. A lot depends on where you are and what 'cold weather' means in your case. Around here it's presently -11C... suffice to say I'm not out riding. But when it warms up to freezing or so, I will again, and how much grip there is depends a lot on the condition of the ground. The tires themselves will get hard in the cold, so not grip as well on rock, but once the ground is frozen solid there's a ton of grip. The slippery conditions arise when you get a thaw, then a re-freeze, and you end up with a sheet of ice just under the surface soil. That's always a mess. If you're just talking about it being chilly but well above freezing, there's no real change in grip levels. What I do find is that from one day to the next, I can go from hero to zero pretty quickly. A lot of it is just how you're feeling on the day.

I don't know... I don't think i've ever had a TRS in 4th gear. But I recall hearing it's a 'climb a big hill' gear like the GG, so I imagine it's about the same.

I'm ambivalent, provided the first 4 gears are well spaced trials gears and 5th+ are road gears. So whether it's a TRS (5) or a GG (6) isn't a big deal to me, since 1-4 are trials gears in both.

This is what a modern GG looks like, specifically 8 and 9. There is no return spring, just a stop screw on the pedal. The pedal itself, with the 'nut' (8) make up a bushing: the nut (8) slides into the opening on the pedal and is lubricated with a small amount of grease. You can tighten the screw as much as you want, the pedal will not bind (unless you manage to pull the nut through the frame, which would be quite something). It's slightly confusing from the parts diagram, but the bolt (9) first goes through the frame obviously.

Is yours an '18? That'd be a difference from the '17. I will tell you this: that section of the airbox tends to fill with water, especially if you wash the bike and spray towards the airbox intake. Also, as I found out once, if you've got the bike in a truck bed/trailer and you're transporting it in the rain.

What breather in the airbox? The only exit from the airbox I ever recall seeing on mine was the water drain, which is just a plastic check valve like you find in every other bike's airbox that allows water out. But it doesn't go anywhere other than onto whatever is under the plug. In fact, thinking on it a bit more, I had the entire airbox out of mine regularly when changing the plug and whatnot, and there was no connection from the bike to the airbox other than the air filter > intake interface, and some electrical connections.

I think it's just water pooled outside the glass. It's a bit concave so it tends to sit there a little. Milky oil is generally one of two things: you sucked in water via the filter (like, the bike was dropped in a river sort of deal), or you've got a coolant leak and it's mixing with the oil. It doesn't take much of a leak to make a mess of the oil, so you might not notice any loss of coolant until its been happening for a while, assuming that's what it is.

I think a Montesa 4rt is the easiest thing I've ever started. You don't really even kick it so much as just push the kicker through it's stroke. As for 2t's, they all get easier to start as they drop in displacement... a Beta EVO 200 is probably a good choice if your right knee is bad. It moves the kicker to your left, and the 200 is pretty easy to kick over.

I watched your video. I think your complaint is that you're not getting any bounce when trying to get the rear hop while pogo'ing working. It's got nothing to do with your weight. It's all timing. You need to bend more and pop the clutch harder, and you need to time it all together. When it's right, the bike comes off the ground like magic.

You're pretty close. Just keep practicing!

If you want to delude yourself into thinking it's your size preventing you doing those things, go for it, but it's all skill. Is it a factor at the highest levels of the sport? Yes. Pol Tarres is a good example of a big guy in trials, whose size was a factor. But again, only at the highest level. For everyone else, no.

Actually, the pound is down quite a bit on the dollar it seems. It's not as bad as I was expecting.

You say '2K'... is that USD or sterling? If it's the former, that's a decent bargain. If the latter, forget it. You can get other things of similar vintage for the same money. Although in any case, as you say, resale will be tough.

They're both fine. Better or worse among most modern bikes are perceived values rather than actual. They all work really well, just pick your fav color frame geometry.

Yeah, i get it, I just didn't want to write a small book about it. As for Sherco/Scorpa, my contention was only that Sherco and Scorpa use the same motor in their bikes, it had nothing to do with its design as relates to any other bike, FI or otherwise.

Engines are one of the few things that are unique among trials bikes. The only current exception is Sherco /Scorpa.

Are there any WTC rules about the bike's motor, other than displacement? I mean, it seems like if power is the issue you're talking about, it should be pretty easy to solve, unless they're restricted to using a homologated engine in all facets of its construction. Since the Honda's are definitely boutique, I'm assuming this isn't the case.

I somehow missed that he was still only 19. Since I don't think media training is really a thing in trials (thankfully) it's no huge surprise that he looks a little sullen. Good for him.

He does look kinda miserable in that pic. Maybe he's just taken ill...

The Ossa should be a LOT more bike for the price, since they're out of business. I'd be looking for a crazy deal on it, otherwise it wouldn't be worth the potential hassle (to me, YMMV).

You need to adjust the air bleed screw. I'm going to bet your idle is pretty low, and you'll find if you get the bike in sixth gear and give it a handful it'll bog and or stall entirely. You need to back the air bleed screw out until the idle comes up. You'll know when it's right because it'll pull sixth gear cleanly.

I suspect you could just file down the trailing edge of the kicker a little to get it to clear the peg.

I can only remember having it happen a handful of times...

I'm still confused what you're complaining about. The bike made the minimum weight with the added weight. Would you be less annoyed if it had been welded in place?

Maybe they have an issue with trapped air in that location of the cylinder without it :shrug:... TRS has one in the same place fwiw.