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I run at 70:1 just a little paranoid, rather be smoky than seized!
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That's a good idea, riding in a straight line as slowly as possible is something easy to over look. There are lines between the concrete in the yard I practice on I could use. I've also got a very long plank I could try balancing along. It's going to be an effort not to use the bars for balance, thanks
Thanks Glenn I fella I met at an off road fun day yesterday said something similar 'to let the bike move underneath you and to loosen up a bit on the bars' It'll come, just not in five minutes!
Speed and momentum can be good in the right places, I would have liked to have seen you motocrossing the sections probably an easy thing to do on a 280 txt haha, ta for the advice
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Hi all.
I can balance well with the engine off, on full or double pressures.
What I struggle with is balancing with the engine on. Especially trying to balance whilst rolling to a stop.
I also struggle with full lock turns, I'm not at the point yet where I can stop and balance mid turn.
Mags has suggested in another thread to balance with the bike in gear, full lock and use the clutch/throttle to move the bike forward and then to stop and balance again. I've tried, but it's quite difficult.
Does anyone have any tips? Why is it harder to balance rolling to a stop? Should you keep your body upright and the bike upright when doing a full lock turn or use the leaning the bike, knee out technique? Should I keep attempting these exercises on concrete or a softer surface?
And yes, I realize you can't stop under no stop rules, but I feel learning these techniques will improve overall balance and cornering ability.
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Merry Christmas and a happy new year.
This is a great forum, I'd have been lost without it. Thanks to everyone for their advice and support. The discussions are fun too, long may it continue
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4rts sound pretty reliable by accounts online, it will be interesting to see how ossa FI systems last 5 years down the line- but most people will probably buy a new bike by then I suppose. If Honda still made a 2 stroke I would be tempted to save for one, hehe.
What tech are they using on modern 2 stroke MX and enduro bikes these days? And is it applicable to trials?
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I stand corrected then
I've had water in the carb once so far, but that's not over 10 years haha. Properly jetted the bike has been going well on it's mikuni carb, not stalling on down hills any more either.
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With a fuel injected bike would you have to plug it into a computer to make adjustments or diagnose a problem? If you're out in the middle of nowhere and something goes wrong there wouldn't be a lot you could do presumably. Plus trials bikes go through a lot of wear and tear, there is enough maintenance on carbed bikes.
Then again, I am in the same boat as susuki 250, I hope all the bikes don't head down this route as the average punter won't be able to afford them!
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you can ride across silly cambers and stupidly steep hills and go places other types of motorcycles can't
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My first bike is a beta rev 3 200 06. Buying it used there has been quite a few issues, had to repair the clutch case where the water pump is due to corrosion, also filed down the clutch to stop the automatic takeoff. The engine is excellent, really grippy in mud and it's a light bike, really enjoyable to ride.
Can't comment on evos, might get one further down the line- either that or a ossa or JTG.
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If I buy a bike it will have to last at least 2 to 3 years before I can afford another one. Thanks for the feedback, by the way, what have you moved onto?
I've learn a lot about maintenance by buying a second hand bike, it's been a good experience in that way- just wish I had payed less for the bike. But I'm hoping once the problems are sorted the bike will be good for a few years as you say.
Hey Whiskey, snap! I bought a rev 3 200 in september too, an 06 what year is yours? Sorry to hear of the troubles you've been having
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Personally I think smaller bikes are more fun to ride, I had more of a blast on my 125 than I now do on my 500. It's more fun to go flat out on a small bike than be timid with a higher capacity machine.
I can see the pros of a 300 for an expert/ someone who knows what they are doing. But you learn technique better with a smaller bike on and off road.
The new Jotagas has got a lot of power, but as others have said it depends on how it rides. Manufacturers will probably continue to make more powerful bikes and people will buy them.
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I'd go for a 250. I'm a beginner too, I'm around 65kg and have started with a 200, more than enough power to buck me off occasionally.
I think a 300 gasgas would be tiring, and a 250 is not a 'little' bike by any means.
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At any rate, I'll work through the problems and hopefully this time- this time there won't be anymore problems! I am a believer in good maintenance and have tried my best so far to keep the bike going and will continue to do so.
But for future reference, how are evos in terms of build quality, common faults etc?
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This is my first trials bike, in the future I'll know what to look out for in a used bike thanks to this experience, I'm kicking myself now because if I had noticed some of these problems when viewing the bike I could have talked him down more. The guy I bought it off raced rally cars, I suspect he did powerwash it and rag it around a bit. When the V5 came through I saw that there had been 5 previous owners.
It's a lesson I want to share with everyone- don't make the same mistake I did, research the bike you're interested in before committing to buy a second hand one. If you don't know trials bikes that well, bring someone along with you who does.
The reeds had worn and were right 'out' performance was improved when I replaced them. There is a rubber o ring and spacer at the bottom of the head stock, that's what I meant by seal. Water had got in there and corroded the bottom bearing.
I'm not suggesting the bikes need to be significantly heavier, more weight for weight's sake is not what I mean. Just better reliability would be good, I'd be willing to put up with a few extra kilos for that. Maybe if in tournaments they limited riders to one bike per season the focus would shift more onto bike quality.
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Thanks Michael_t. I am very tempted to get another beta in the future, when I can afford one, despite having these problems. I guess I'll have to try out different bikes, won't be any bigger than a 250 I'm sure. This bike is a good starter bike, hopefully once I've sorted out these problems and maintain the bike it will last a decent amount of time. I like small bikes, to be honest I had more fun on the road ragging my 125 than taking it easy on a 500.
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Maybe that's down to looking after it from new? God knows what sort of life this bike had before I picked it up. The only good things have been the condition of the frame, rims and the engine. Next time might get a discounted year old bike or something, I do like the look of the evos, we'll see, thanks Just frustrated as the bike runs nicely but it's been one issue coming up after another
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I've posted on here before about the problems I've had with a 06 rev 3 I bought, here is a recap,
Bleeding brakes- takes forever, practically impossible haha!
Automatic takeoff when cold- thankfully sorted by doing the clutch fix and using light gear oil
Magnesium case corrosion
Plug fowling
Rear brake seizure, pads stuck
Dog teeth on air box broke
Took the carb off to improve the jetting- reeds completely worn
Side stand broken off as well as the chain tensioner- both sorted out
new thermostat- fan still not working and engine overheating
After feeling roughness in the steering today I took the bike to my mechanic friend and uncovered a nice new host of new problems,
Left fork seal gone
Front wheel bearings worn
Headstock roller bearing completely rusted- the seal must have gone and water got in
Two of the mounts on the radiator have broken off (how I don't know, as this seems a low stress area)
The wires connected to the radiator/ thermostat have melted together, no wonder the fan isn't working and she is overheating after 2 hours out!
The exhaust is rubbing on the rear tyre when the suspension bottoms out, we found the bracket holding it had bent.
Am I just unlucky? Is this just general wear and tear? Taking the radiator out made me realize how thin the front of the frame is, not impressed by the build quality or the parts. Everything is so flimsy, small, difficult to take off and put back on. Using a magnesium case with a liquid system just seems daft, as does fastening the exhaust onto weak dog bones and the air box.
Why can't manufacturers make a bike that is better built and more reliable? Whats a few extra kilos for a longer lifespan? I'm beginning to think that trials bikes are treated like disposable objects. Couldn't the manufacturers keep the lower weight by using an air cooled system rather than liquid cooling but improve the quality of the components.
I just feel really frustrated. Two years down the line I was thinking of getting a new beta evo 250 2t, but now I'm not so sure. I know things like bearings are general maintenance, but the quality could be improved- especially on bikes that are supposed to handle the roughest terrain that any motorcycle can go across.
There are a lot of things I love about this bike, the light weight is good in many ways, no complaints about the engine and unusually for a beta haven't had any ignition issues. But for a few extra kilos or an air cooled system, it would be worth it for a better built bike.
Has anyone else had similar experiences? What are the modern evos like in terms of problems?
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I've got a pair of alpinestars no stop. Awesome boots, saved my feet from the chain several times, really comfortable with good protection. Only problem is they are not waterproof, but I don't think any of the trials boots really are.
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I think it was filmed feb this year, maybe they hadn't finished developing the bike yet?
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you could say the power of 600cc to 1000cc sports bikes aren't needed or desirable for 99% of riders, but people still buy them.
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Maybe try to do some slow turns around the rocks on that slope where you are practicing, mark out a route and if you can do it without dabbing tighten up the lines you can take. I would suggest practicing riding as slow as possible in a straight line, experiment with how much or how little throttle you need to get over obstacles and hills too. Power doesn't really help on a slippery off camber turn for example.
I'm a beginner too, but you wouldn't believe the difference just practicing figure 8 turns and turns up and down hills across cambers make to your riding.
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Hi, thanks for your input. I've gone with a 10/41 combo, just trying the bike around a yard it feels better in 1st and 2nd, the chain tensioner makes it ride better too- much more manageable. Just got to try it on tougher terrain now, Cheers
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Hi,
At the moment the bike has a 41 tooth rear, 11 tooth front. Does anyone know what the stock gearing is for a 2006 beta rev 3 200?
I find 1st gear a little bit fast at times in the tight stuff.
I've bought a 10 tooth front sprocket, but the chain is too loose and will need adjustment. The bike hasn't got a tensioner on it, I will put one on tomorrow and see if it makes a difference.
My question is, anyone else use a 41/10 combo, and if so, how do you find it? I don't want first gear to be unusable and spin up, but I would like the bike to go a bit slower without having to clutch it to death. I ride mainly in muddy woodland sections at the moment...
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Everyone seems to be in engineering or mechanical trades, I feel quite overwhelmed! Haha, maybe trials appeals cause it's so technical?
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