faussy

Does the trs top triple clamp have a centre pinch bolt on the top locking nut. This loosens on my gasgas quite a lot and then the nut backs off. Next time i would mark your lower locking nut and see if its backing off over time or the bearings are just setting in after being greased

Hard to tell, they came with black frames from 07. But someone could have painted it black. It has the later radiator shroud, it has a black airbox, later triple clamps, so my guess would be no, not 02. The year is the 5th number from the end. The 02 in the vin number is the year of homologation, when this model came out

Youre a brave man for launching at that stuff with such high rpm, one slip of the clutch finger and your bike would be off to the moon. But as you say, at first we compensate for lack of technique with more throttle, then as we refine the technique we can reduce the throttle

The engine and frames are all that they do though. Everything else, suspension and wheels, are all shared. Head and barrels used to be made by s3 for a while across multiple manufactures, to each manufacturers spec however. When the frames and engines only undergo a major development change once every 10 years its not that much of a development. Gasgas and montesa have basically used the same engine for the last 20 years. Im not a beta expert, but i think its basic engine design hasnt changed in well over 20 years

I ride a 300 with no fww, while some do, its personal preference. It sounds to me like you would appreciate the change it would have. Worth asking some gasgas riders if they have one on their shelf to try out (most do) as it would be a 10 minute fit before a trial starts (no need to remove the flywheel). Have you got it on the rain ignition setting btw? I find the difference between maps virtually indistinguibale though

Im going to disagree with lemur a little. Depends on your terrain afterall, yes if its wet you could try 3rd more. The 6 speed box does allow for a relatively low 3rd. For general riding however, 3rd and using more clutch is not the cure, its just going to introduce more problems. The beauty of the gasgas gearbox IMO is the close gearing, with higher 1st. If its dry and im not blasting up hills, 90% of the time im in first. It slows my riding down, yet still allows sufficient power for small to medium steps. 280s are just like that, they are sharp, always have been, sharper than the 300 below 1/4 throttle. Theres a reason colley used to ride one indoors. I only know 2 guys in our club who ride 280s, and theyve both fitted flywheel weights. I dont know why gg still make them, 250 for clubmen, 300 for experts. Who exactly is the 280 marketed for? The gear lever still fits but you have to slide it off the splines a little.

With the newly designed footpegs i think its going to be a while before someone like jitsie make a pair. Aftermarket guards arent common, again it will probably be jitsie who get round to it first

Ive used a putoline one and its been equal quality to the twinair. Cant find a link to them. See the link below, it says the apico ones are made by twinair. https://www.ohamotorsport.com/apico-air-filter-for-gasgas-txt-pro--racing--gp-2002-2022-8869-p.asp

A picture would help. Pre 2010 was a pressed frame with conventional tank and airbox, while 2010 onwards frame was made from round tubing with an inverted tank and airbox 99-05 frame had one brace at the headstock, 06-09 had two braces. Engines (afaik) changed very little over those years bar colour

Depends what the previous owner has done. They could have folded the wire back up to the headstock area or possibly cut it off. Ive done both in the past

Fair enough, i thought you meant you needed a dealer handy because you were always taking it to him to get it fixed.

Maintanence on a trials bike should not involve a dealer. If it requires a dealer, thats not maintanence

Constant maintanence? Theyre all brand new! Am i doing trials wrong if ive only had to go to the dealer a couple of times in 20 years?

Some people just love to bash the opposite brand. I havent noticed a drop in GG quality since the takeover. A couple years back some 125s had a bad batch of cdi units, thats about it. IMO it would be between the GG and TRS, probably the GG since its a brand new bike for 2023 and people seem to like it. Im not a fan of betas, but in the uk theres a reason theyre the most popular bike amongst clubmen. They turn tight (but are twitchy) have really smooth power (but a little lacking). Scorpa and sherco got totally updated with new engine and chasis for 2023. The 2022 versions arent bad bikes and if you want to save a bit, for an intermediate rider they are more than fine. Theres very little to choose between them all. Picking which bike you think looks the best really is a legitamate reason, especially if you are going new/newish

This here is complete nonsense, stop listening/spreading such rubbish Go with which one you like the colour of, what most people seem to do these day

Jitsie make a kind of universal seat for trials. https://www.trialstoreusa.com/seat-with-velcro/

Do you mean the fender or the airbox? For a while the edge of the airbox bothered me, but lately underneath my pants i have two further layers that could be adding protection

The 23 gg has such a different rear mudguard design and shape to the previous contact, i dont imagine retrofitting another year or brand being easy. I even struggle to imagine how you could fix it at the rear without drilling holes in your nice mudguard

Primary drive gear is on the end of your crank, not your front sprocket

You can work your way through these for starters 😁 https://www.google.com/search?q=gasgas+top+hat+site%3Awww.trialscentral.com&client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=556587111&biw=2560&bih=1307&sxsrf=AB5stBhP7V4tEHZCBRA9T03ndfspxJkDIw%3A1691961924455&ei=RErZZKm-G5ashbIP5ZWBkAU&ved=0ahUKEwip8OurydqAAxUWVkEAHeVKAFIQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=gasgas+top+hat+site%3Awww.trialscentral.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiKWdhc2dhcyB0b3AgaGF0IHNpdGU6d3d3LnRyaWFsc2NlbnRyYWwuY29tSN0LUIoKWIoKcAJ4AJABAJgBQaABQaoBATG4AQPIAQD4AQHiAwQYASBBiAYB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Search on here for ‘top hat’

Dont know about the ty but a classic motocross bike i have has 100 Nm in the manual. Ive seen 90 Nm for other bikes. As lowside says though, im always a bit wary of 50 year old threads stripping at high torques

GG recommend motorex, a fully synthetic, but thats the only offroad oil they make. Using motul 800 in a trials bike is only asking for more trouble, never seen it being recommended by any manufacturers for their trials bike. Ask anybody who knows and they will straight up say dont use 800. The UK sherco importer recommends rock oil, a semi sythetic, before that it was ipone, also semi. Find it odd putoline have a dedicated trials oil, yet are now recommending you to use their mx oil. If a bike has 120 hours on it (i also remember you saying in a post you had over 300 hours on a bike), and you werent the owner from new, there can be other reasons for this than just the oil

Ive never used fully synthetic oil in a trials bike because these are usually designed for motocross and more likely to do what has happened to your bike. Im guessing thats what mx stands for in the suggested oils . For this reason ive always stuck with semi synthetic. I run 60:1 and have never experienced carbon build up like this Are you sure your bike is carburetted properly?

You wont wear the magnet out. Its basically a switch with the throw magnetized. When the magnet is attached it attracts the throw away from the ground. No more moving parts than a conventional switch. 99% of the time the lanyward is a pain, its that 1% of the time it comes in handy.