brownie001

You could probably get yourself a used book, there are some available. Use www.bookfinder.com Author is Clymer Titel is Montesa Service

Hi, see the pdf I attached. Have fun, Phil Adjuster001.pdf

Hi Oldaz, bit late for you now but I bought an earlier model than yours a few months ago and have been faced with just about the same set of problems as you. My tip to everybody would be, go out and spends wads of cash on an endoscope before you do anything else. Mine fits my android phone and a windows 7 notebook/laptop. You can look inside tanks, bores, gearboxes, you name it. Mine came with a 90 degree mirror ad adapter, a magnet attachment and a small hook. The software allows you to take stills and make videos. There are loads available for all sorts of end devices and the wads of cash was € 20. Well worth it as far as I'm concerned. Phil

Cheers, I'll take a look.

Hi, why would you need to close it off ? If there are no ports in the cylinder matching, it won't do any harm.

Hi, can anyone help me find a 73.5 mm piston for my Cota 247 ? I has the window in the inlet side face. Woessner make some but they are under contract and not available in their catalogue. Many thanks, Phil

Hi Motosolex, I get informed that you cannot receive messages. Here's my mail address anyway. Philip-Brown@T-Online.de. The engine stuff is what I need, all the rest is no big deal. Many, many thanks in advance, Phil

Hi to you all. I've now got all of the problems you guys have faced with restoring your Cota 247's, I had my last one when I was 20 which was 43 years ago now. Anyway, if one of you could be so kind and let me have a copy of the Clymer manual I'd be really thankful. If not, can someone tell me how to remove the primary gear from the crankshaft and the clutch basket ? That would be great for a start. By the way. it's a pretty early 70's one, righthand gearchange, chassis and engine #'s 21M5032 Thanks in advance, Phil

Hi Turbohead, low res it my be but it is readable and there's no guesswork involved as far as the cable colours are concerned. Many thanks, Phil

Hi, has anybody got a readable wiring diagram for a TLNW 125 they can let me have a copy of ? Everything I've found so far is of low quality and unreadable. Thanks in advance, Phil

The vids are now there. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/43c3xdgu9t2e9nz/AADcupjxtjUP7COuaWjYKc19a?dl=0

Oh dear, seem to have the wrong vid. It's Brands by the way. Popped in there on my way home in August. I'll upload the Gefrees link/s shortly.

Try this http://www.swm-moto.services/ricambi-motore/rotax/modifica-frizione-rotax-detail.html

Hi, except the cast plate, bottom right, everything is an Aprilia part or a simple third party for screws, spring and so. Check the Barnett Clutches thread for more details. The milling involved is not too big a number if you have experience with your machine, should be no problem. I have four plates left. That includes one complete set as in the pic. I'm asking €20 plus p&p for the plate alone and €60 plus P&P for the one complete set. As you are in the US, you might like to keep an eye out for later Can Am Bombardier engines which are being broken. They have the same setup but with a steel arm which you can cut, extend and weld. The best fix for a better, lighter mechanical clutch is to get hold of an Aprilia TX cover or an air cooled climber one. Hens teeth here. If your Italian is 'Intuative', as indeed mine is, you can also get everything you need here, http://www.swm-moto.net/en/?jjj=1455288193313&jjj=1459258046796 Phil

I met and had a nice long chat with Gustav at the D-Cup round in (Gefrees), age is getting the better of me, it was in Zirndorf in August. He told me so many stories about his rides in the UK and one which he had to tell was when he broke his foot. Apparently, he went off between sections and it was Sammy Miller who stopped to help him. Accoring to Gustav, Sammy only helped him because he thought he would then retire. Sammy pulled his bike back onto the road, helped Gustav to it, started it and wished Gustav all the best. Gustav then went on to win the trial which didn't go down well with Mr. Miller.

Yep, clean on the inside too and as stated earlier, was a perfect fit. It cost 165 pounds. https://jpcustomcomponents.co.uk/

Here are the parts required.

After looking around for a good while for a replacement exhaust manifold for my 81 TL320NW, I found that most of what was on offer was in worse condition to the one I wanted to replace. Then a notification popped up on FB for some new stainless ones on offer. I ordered one, it arrived yesterday, I fitted it today, perfect.

Hi basinbaker2, if you are going for the conversion but keeping the original SWM casing, the ramps need to be milled off and a special plate with cast in ramps is required. When I finally got hold of mine from Italy, I had a few cast if you are interested. In fact, just checked, I have all the bits for two complete conversions plus 3 more cast plates and various adjuster screws and 12 mm balls. PM me if you are interested. Phil

Hi and welcome. Try here, https://clasicaslegendarias.com/fichas-y-manuales-de-montesa-cota/ You might find something of use to you. Phil

You could try asking here, https://www.clasicaslegendarias.com/shop/en/

Hi, here are a few videos I made today with an Action Cam in Gefrees, not brilliant but.... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/43c3xdgu9t2e9nz/AADcupjxtjUP7COuaWjYKc19a?dl=0

I had the same problem with my 125 but with Marzocchis. I put them back together incorrectly. All documented here on this forum. I had the short spring, as Carl said above, on the wrong side of the top washer and circlip. Phil

Hi Neil, B40RT, many many thanks for the pics and explanation. I've gone a different route though. I decided to make some 5 mm thick plates and had a few goes at finding the right footrest position for me. The end result is as follows. With the bike on a stand, the middle of the footpeg is 980 mm from the middle of the front axle to the middle of the footpeg. The top of the footpeg is 340 mm from the top of the frame rail directly above it. The brake lever is currently mounted on the outside of the frame using a rod to connect to the brake arm. It works fine but looks pretty naff to say the least. The template I have made is a bit like an italic 'h'. The pivot is on the bottom left, the cable would be mounted at the top left. The arc is stretched forward quite a lot and has to be that shape to get over the bash plate cross member. The pivot mounting point would be in the middle of the peg mounting bracket (idealy?). Not got that far yet but hope to get something finalized in the next couple of weeks or so. Phil

To lower and move back the footpegs on a TL 320 seems to be the most done mod. What I've not seen is what mods have been done to the rear brake lever to be able to cover it while riding and standing on the pegs. Any pics of the mods made would be appreciated. I am going to try and get a lever made that will still use the original cable. I have a template made but need to get it fabricated if it is at all possible. It is a really wierd looking thing to say the least.