still trying

Very cool, you'll probably be ready for the next classic ride. I'll let you know when and where when I get the E mail if you like.

You probable know all this and it is only a few years practice that's needed, anyway my 10 cents worth; If you run over roots try to ease off the brake as the wheel goes over the root, also at the same time try to get your weight off the wheel. If there is a notch, ridge, or vee, in the root use it guide your wheel. It can stop your wheel sliding / washing out. I often ride a harder line to use these features, Often if everyone else is riding a line and the bark is gone, the root becomes very slippery, so you will need to "float" each wheel over it. Applying power as your back wheel hits it almost definitely will cause grief. Try to have enough speed to almost coast over. This is a rough guide to tree roots, hope it helps

If you can get someone to video you riding and compare this to what you should be doing is a great help. Often you think you are have the stance that your after only to find this is not quite so. But bottom line as mentioned, We do this for fun.

I ride a Gas Gas JT 95 (327 cc beast). Heaps of torque / power. I like to approach slowish, and as late as possible give it heaps using the throttle. My speed twisting the throttle controls the rate of acceleration I use the clutch to taper off the power I've dialed on to stop over shooting. At least in 1st & 2nd. This is probably not the correct way but it works for me. A training video I watched years ago described the twist grip as the power setting, and the clutch as the throttle, i.e. the clutch was used to control the power going to the back wheel, and the "engine throttle" set the maximum power available. For Third or higher gears, I feed the power in with the clutch as I start twisting the throttle early to avoid stalling (and if I'm in third the obstacle is BIG). As for weighting, practice, practice, practice. good luck!

G'day crazybond700 Compared to other Japanese makes, not so many. They were heavier than most, with the weight a little too far forward. Quite reliable and could take a fair bit of punishment.

Hi Dave, I forgot to add, a lot of the trials guys from Auckland belong to the Waitemata club.

Hi Wakka, peterb, guys, have some pics in "show us your twin shocker!" and a heap of chat in "weld or braze" in classic section

the chain system is my own evil concoction to get around putting the swing arm pivot on the rear engine mount.to move the center of gravity back, without changing the engine casing (cut and weld a block in). I did try to not change any of the original parts, so I can still rebuild an original KT if I wash.

My project KT250r, r for rebuilt, radical, ruined etc you choose The bottom two pic's are of the first test fitting of the soon to be modified plastics, and the tank before final welding. Not much to change on the Gasgas guard, what luck!!!

Hi all, Thought I'd add my 10 cents worth. Here in NZ they run what they call "Twin shock trials". These have three levels of difficulty in each section. There are several classifications; Classic, (essentially Pre 65 bikes), Twin shock (70s' bikes, i.e. twin rear shock, air cooled, drum break bikes), Modern bikes, (air cooled mono shock bikes, drum and disk). True modern bikes are not turned away, but points are not counted and kind of frowned on. After all there are plenty of trials to cater for them. At these Twin shock trials stopping & hopping etc is not allowed, i.e. you'll get a five. Gotta keep moving. As for the level of section you ride on what bike, you choose to suit your ability. The pre 65s' tend to ride the straighter easier line more suited to thier bikes. The modern are encouraged to ride the hardest line, but consideration is always given to rider ability. The events are pretty casual affaires which makes them really enjoyable to ride at. Bottom line Keep It Fun, not too much focus on the competing and more on the riding, talking, sharing, etc.

Hi, Great to see your loving the trials bike. Don't stop. Blue mountains = Aussy. I'm thinking. I'm next door in NZ. I do similar as you, trying to stay feet up and either find a challenging place to try riding too or up, (e.g. Up and out a steep tight gully) or mentally mark out a section (tight shortish track) and ride that. It's the having a pre-planned track before riding that starts to make things tricky, as you can't change track just because you've gone off line anymore. But just doing really tight steep rocky trail riding on a trials bike is definitely a blast! I used to ride enduros, and trials, until a big off and bad concussion. I came to the conclusion massive fun with big jumps etc, but just as much riding massive rocks and banks etc (for me anyway). The only real difference was that when it goes wrong doing trials, minimal damage to me and bike. I have looped off two story high banks much to the amusement of my mates. Interesting to note nobody in NZ has been killed or seriously damaged riding trials in NZ. Now your challenge is to convince someone else to go trial riding with you. Then making sections gets more fun.

Hi, I'm in the Hamilton motorcycle club, (I'm from down that way originally). As for contacts in the Trials world of NZ try Jim Henderson, he rides classics etc, real nice guy and the NZ Trials coordinator jim1@xtra.co.nz. He will put you onto all the others. Most of the trials are south of Auckland. Some real good places between ak and Hamilton About 1 - 2 hrs drive. The TLR looks like it'll be magic once your do. Now the pressures on to get my machine done.

G'day Dave, Great to hear you've got an old Honda. A good reliable machine in my experiance. I'm working on a modified KT250. Where in NZ are you? I'm in Auckland. If your in this area I hope to see you at a classic ride sometime. All the best

Has anyone tried removing the springs completely? You would have to change the air volume to get the right progressive rate of compression, (you could do this by altering the oil level. probably by quite a lot). Large volume = soft and little progression, small volume = high rate of progression. I can only see two down sides; 1 air tends to heat up with work which would change the rate slightly 2, It could increase the resistance to initial movement as it would push the oil up against the seal causing the seal to grip the shaft tighter. as the oil is against the seal it doesn't have to be air tight, just the usual oil tight that it is designed for. After all these seals are basically hydraulic seals which using the similar lip / material design can handle 210 bar (see modern diggers etc). Just a thought

I got interested in this site for all the KT250 chat, thanks. I got given one that was running, but pretty rough. Finally got talked into rebuilding it. Ended up designing a new frame and swing arm, (didn't want to hack the original). Its all chrome molly, and aluminium. total weight loss will fall between 10 and 15 kg (about 82 kg with tyres and fluids) Some basic dimensions; length overall 1990 dist between wheel centers 1280 - 1320(max chian stretch) dist from rear wheel center to c of g 576 dist from front wheel center to c of g 704 ground clearance 285 seat height 535 width motor 285 width swingarm 245 width frame 210, (not including foot rests) height to hand grips 1155 mm Now learning how to build the tank. As it stands the bike balances really nicely. The back shocks are a little soft, (will get stiffer springs and non gas shocks).