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still trying

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About still trying

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    KT250r, Gas Gas JT35

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    New Zealand

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  1. Hi Sam, I've just followed my instructions and the web site has changed so they don't work. Try; Trials Australia, Forums, Twinshock (At the moment its on page 3) "Steer Clear, understanding steering" posted by Guy53, on sept 16 2016
  2. Hi Sam, Have a read of the post in "Trials Australia", its all about bike geometry front and rear. Essentially it ends up as a series of compromises. But it helps you understand the trade offs, and how/what to alter for what effect. Really good for tuning things once riding as well. Anyway, go to; Trials Australia, then; Forums, then; Twinshock and Classic Trials, then; Steer Clear, Understanding steering Hope this helps. I had to read it a few times to get my head around it fully, but it was worth the effort.
  3. Cool project, Love the coffin tank. You'll have a blast, good luck
  4. Personally, I think the TY is a better pure trials machine (light and nimble), but a little under powered. If your just having a play and nothing too tight etc, I'd go for the RL It also does to a point depend on your physical size and weight etc. Back when I was riding a TY175 I was 69kg and would have struggled with the RL, now either would do me fine.. Both look like nice tidy machines, good luck and have fun .
  5. Great time to learn to balance stationary. Once you can do this for say 30 sec, start on hopping the front. Back break on full, motor off, The motion is compress the forks, move body back and up using your legs (they should do most of the work). If you dab on the outside, you moved more that the bike, Dab inside, bike went too far. If you can do this, it is a brilliant fitness exercise.
  6. If you want to read about bike geometry, steering head angles,swing arm angles, etc, go to, "Trials Australia", then; forums; next "Twinshock and classic trials", next, scroll down to, "Steer clear, understanding steering". Its really useful. Great looking project by the way, Good luck
  7. I agree metisse, but then we're back to how many and what mods put you in the "special" class. Cut frames, steering head mods, laid over shocks, removed bottom cradle rails....I feel a headache coming on Initially perhaps set it up to get all those excluded bikes back out being seen and ridden Personally, I admire both, carefully restored/maintained originals, and the creativity of the specials. John, well done, your workmanship looks great, If we didn't know better it looks like a production bike with a different silencer.
  8. Hi, the only thing I've done to my Carb is strip and clean, and make a new bowel gasket. My bike had been sitting outside before I got it in 1989, rode it a few times before storing it until 2014. Found some ali corrosion in the airways. bit of a mission to clear but got there. Since cleaning and putting motor in the new frame (see projects) its been faultless. Original bike was pretty rough
  9. Oh be careful not to overdo it and have valve seats etc come out, Good luck
  10. As above, heating the head is the way to go. From experience you'll be heading for around 400 C, At work I use the oxy acytlene torch for this, but at home I use an LPG burner, (its a little safer as far as melting the work goes). The thread in the head may get damaged as the studs come out, so I'd suggest helli-coiling or using thread inserts after extraction in the head. Then you can use, bolts, capscrews or studs, and they will be more serviceable.
  11. still trying

    Yamaha ty250a

    I've got a KT 250 with original DID rims and the tubeless tire kept coming off, (front and rear). I used a sanding disc on an angle grinder and removed the tubeless sealing lip from the tire bead and no more problem. The bead land on the rims I have is small (narrow) and the seal lip sat on the radius to the spoke valley, so when the pressure was less than 30 psi it pulled the bead off the seat. My suggestion is to try unmodified first and go from there. As far as using a tube in a tubeless tire, No problem at all. The biggest difference I can find is that the tubeless tire has a lip on the inside edge of the bead to seal against the small ridge at the inside edge of the bead seat of a tubeless rim.
  12. I'm pretty sure that you only have to cover the case hole, but it would be wise to check. The drive end of the oil pump is a couple of flats, which suggests that the drive side is retained and self contained. It would not be good engineering practice to expect the shaft flat shoulders to keep the gear on the shaft. I'm sure you have it covered(excuse the pun), but you haven't mentioned it, don't forget to block the carb access hole.
  13. If you weld it, measure it very carefully before. multiple diameter readings all round, ring grooves, skirt dia etc. Pre heat it to help reduce distortion, also make a plug that is a tight fit and weld it in. (less shrinkage/ distortion). Use TIG and do little bits at a time, allowing the weld to cool to preheat temp, patience is key.
  14. Dam right b40rt! As for twinshock Official rules, I would expect my KT250r (r for Roger'ed) to be excluded. I did it to see if I could, and to put my money where my mouth is. A lot of the ideas came from when I first started, and people told me high ground clearance, low seat height and narrow were good attributes for a bike to have. Riding in the bush back then and constantly drowning my TY175 made me want to swap the tank and air box locations. Partially done on this KT (air filters and intake is under the tank and runs down to the plenum chamber behind the carb. Did get my calcs wrong and had to add a second filter and intake vent above the plenum chamber,..... bugger). the shock location came from the first Yamaha monoshock enduro bikes with the triangular framed swing arm. So at least the ideas are old enough, just took a long time to upskill and get on with it. If the intent is to "Recreate" trials as per the twinshock era, then all bikes and parts should be as per period. Can be new bike, parts, but must be as per parts of the period, in look and function. So much trawling of the old photo's and talking to riders who remember what went on. get proof of mod etc. This is how classic car racing is run, heavily focused on how things were, with very few mods allowed. Basically for safety and reliability (ignition) reasons. At lest that's how I understand it. At the end of the day, you pay your money to ride for several hours. Winning lasts for several minutes, Get value for money, enjoy the ride, ignore what others are doing,and focus on you ride, try to make each lap an improvement.and thus it no longer matters how good the bike is. Top mod for any bike is, get fitter (it'll even help you health wise) and it can be done for bugger all! Oh and throw in a bit of practice as well... just for fun.
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