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gazza7965

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Everything posted by gazza7965
 
 
  1. http://www.bsaotter.com/pre_65_rules.html
  2. Try Paul at Cambridge Trials Centre, he specialises in these, last time I spoke with him about them he wanted around £200 for a half decent one, the plastic lugs all break off normally. I think he was looking to reproduce them.
  3. Niponn, I believe you will find that the Repsol version of the 4rt still uses the same forks as the later 315's, I have a 2002 315 and I removed the rainbow stanchions and replaced them with new black stanchions for a Repsol 4rt into my 315 fork bottoms so I would expect the damper system to be the same as well. Worth looking into. Hope this helps.
  4. Ken, You are correct, no big rocks around here either! You are also correct, just remove the shoulders on either side of the primary drive sprocket, this will enable the taper to fit on the shaft and give enough thread for the nut. With regard to the slimline seal carrier, i was not impressed with the cost the local engineering company I used wanted to charge me so that did not end well, so I cannot recommend anyone to make one. However, the design is very simple, it is basically a thicker version of the original plate (BSA part 90-133 I believe) made from 6 or 7 mm thick aluminium plate and a 6 or 7 mm width seal to suit. I had the screws recessed into the plate so you could use the original screws and not have them protruding.
  5. Hi Ken, I have done exactly what you are looking to do with my '65 D7. I reduced the primary drive socket down to 12 as you are wanting to do, I used one of Rex's sprockets. He quite correctly states that in its original state as purchased, the gears will not line up, I had to have it machined to fit, the sprocket will not go on far enough to allow the chain to line up or fit onto the taper of the crankshaft, it needs the overhang on the back and also the front removed, then it will fit, and allow the nut to be fitted,. You are then faced with what gear ratios to run. I started off after having a custom seal carrier (a lot thinner machined from billet aluminium), this enabled me to have a 12 front sprocket and 64 rear in 420 chain size. I found this far too low geared, so after going up to a 13 on the front and 60 on the rear, found it still too low. I am now running a 14 front and a 60 rear, however this is still a little lower geared than I would like and as you only have one usable gear, I am looking to either go bigger on the front or smaller on the back. If you go bigger than 14 on the front I dont think you have the chain clearance issue with original seal carrier. So a 15 front and 64 rear may work and remove the need for seal carrier alterations. I am probably now looking at 14 and 56 rear to have i usable gear. Hope this of some help.
  6. Hi Can anyone recommend someone to widen a rear bantam hub by 35mm? Really struggling to find someone who is comfortable doing it. I am in the south east but do travel north regularly thanks
  7. I think you will find that the ones with red/ yellow graphics are the aftermarket Gas Gas UK kit.
  8. Hi Bert, I completely agree with PeterB comments, the only additional advice I would give based upon my own experience is to apply some heat. I have experienced this issue multiple times, the best way I have resolved this is to remove the disc completely hopefully not snapping the heads off any more bolts, I find a heat gun is the best way to approach this and some WD 40 or alike, they do seem to undo much easier, I believe they all have some type of thread lock on these from new for safety reasons and they also make a nice mess of your caliper if they come undone. You really do need a very good quality drill bit and if you are going to try and re tap the thread using a 5 mm drill, this has to be exactly in the centre of the broken thread or it will destroy part of the thread if not and then you are looking at a helicoil! I have found the easy out method with heat the best solution. Drill a hole to suit the easy out size, ideally around 3mm. Spray WD 40 on the broken bolt area, heat using a heat gun (not a blow torch), repeat 2/3 times, then whilst still hot remove broken bolt with the easy out, this has ALWAYS worked for me and you will find that when it is hot it will not take a great deal of force to remove it.
  9. These bikes do seem to suffer badly from pre-ignition or "pinking". You cannot retard the iginition as there is no movement on the stator. The only way I could get my 2002 to run to my satisfaction was to add a 1mm head spacer. This lowers the compression without upsetting the port timing with the addition of additional base gaskets. I tried to do it through carburation using differing size pilot jets and changing to a Keihin and different fuels and octane boosters but by far the biggest improvement was achieved with the head spacer. Pinking gone and no noticeable loss in power.
  10. gazza7965

    Engine Paint

    I have always used: PJ1 Motorcycle Motorbike Engine And Case Paint 400ml Spray Satin Black Aerosol Gives a very good finish and very durable if oven cured as per instructions.
  11. I found Derby Road and Race very reasonable and very good quality
  12. I understand that Gas Gas have changed the clutch pack height on the latest models from the 9.75 - 9.85 tolerance to something above 10. Does anyone have any experience of this or know the new tolerances. Been looking around the internet and I can find no details on it. Many Thanks
  13. Hi barnesy The white and orange are painted, the only decal is the black 4RT style one. I did deliberate not painting the tank cover as it seemed a shame to paint over the carbon fibre but it would not have gone with the colour scheme Regards
  14. Renthal Fat bar conversion Raptor pegs Keihin Carb 1mm head spacer to cure pinking issues 4rt Showa fork stanchions Boyeson reeds Mitani carbon fibre fuel tank H & D racing rear suspension linkage plates
  15. I am not sure about the weight difference but I don't think there is much in it. I would say that the 315 feels much lighter than the 4RT and for me is a much nicer bike to ride.
  16. Hi givemea5 I did this conversion for my 315 and it does make it look much more modern.It is not too difficult to do but there are some mods needed to make it fit correctly. I will try and detail everything I did: 1. Obviously cut down the mudguard, I did this carefully with a large hacksaw blade. You need to line it up by fitting the mudguard to the bike with the 2 mounting holes fitted to the brackets on the airbox and mark where it meets the tank on each side of the new mudguard. Make a template from 2 inch masking tape of the profile of the edge of the fuel tank where the mudguard will meet or the original 315 mudguard front edge. use this as a template to cut across the the 4rt mudguard, this also helps not to scratch the new mudguard when cutting. Once cut you will find you will have to chamfer the edge of the mudguard where it meets the tank as the edge of the fuel tank is angled. (The cut should go through the middle of the two front square vent holes on the mudguard) see picture 2. Drilling the hole to mount the mudguard at the front.- I drilled a 6 mm clearance hole in the centre of the mudguard, 35mm from the front edge once it had been cut. This may need to slightly elongated but not by much to fit perfectly. 3. Mudguard mounting brackets on the airbox..I found that the original airbox mounting brackets not to be correctly located to make the mudguard sit right. I found that only one of these brackets can be used. To get the mudguard to sit correctly, i swapped the right hand bracket to the left hand side which in effect moves the mounting position up a little. I made a new bracket for the other side, it is not too difficult they are only sheet metal. This bracket is best made once you have the mudguard sitting correctly on the front mounting and the left hand side mounting. This then shows you exactly what shape the right hand side bracket has to be. 4. Modifications under the mudguard. The 4RT mudguard has a plastic plate moulded into the guard towards the front that when fitted, sits on top of the airbox, I think its stops the mudguard flexing downwards when sitting on it. The airbox is obviously different on the 315 so this has to be modified. I pop rivetted an aluminium plate to the original plastic tab that when fitted gave a measurement of 55mm from the bottom of the plate (where it would touch the 315 airbox) to the underneath of the mudguard. There is also a gap where the underneath of the mudguard meets the back of airbox which if not covered in some way would allow all the mud/water thrown off the tyres to go through the gap and run down on top of the air filter area. I made another metal plate and sandwiched a rubber flap (made from an old inner tube) and pop riveted this to the flange that runs across the middle of the mudguard underneath. This flange must also be trimmed to fit before fitting the plate as it fouls the airbox mounting brackets. Finally glue some expanded foam rubber to the underneath the mudguard with contact adhesive to close the gap completely and allow no mud/debris thrown off the rear wheel to enter the top of the airbox. see picture. 5. The front mounting bolt. On the 315 mudguard, the front mounting bolt sits in a recess and the underneath of the recess sits on top of the fuel tank mounting grommet. This is not the case on the cut down 4RT mudguard, which means a much longer bolt is required. I found this gives a problem, when sitting on the bike, the mudguard still wants to flex and put this bolt under a lot of pressure. I got round this by making a new fixing that fixes the fuel tank in position first and then allows the new mudguard to sit on top of this fixing and allows a much shorter bolt to be used to secure the mudguard. This is made from a 10 mm bolt with the unthreaded shaft part cut to a length of 15mm. (This replaces the spacer used to originally fix the fuel tank) Drill through the centre of the entire 10 mm bolt and tap all the way through the 10 mm bolt to a 6mm thread.Thread lock a 20 mm stud of 6mm studding into the bottom leaving around 12 mm of the thread exposed. You then have plenty of female thread on top of the bolt to use to fix the mudguard using a 12 mm long, 6mm button head allen screw. see picture. 6. Finishing touches. Where the 4RT mudguard now meets the fuel tank, the front vent square holes are no longer the same shape. I made some decals that give the appearance that the mudguard shape and appearance has been maintained - see picture. I hope I have covered everything and this makes sense but if you have any questions then please let me know.
  17. I would have bought it just for spares at that price. I recently purchased a 2002 and have done a bit of a makeover on it, thought it might be of interest
 
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