tcrhino

Agree on the first sentence. In the last month I rode a TRS 250RR and a Vertigo combat 250 and still like the overall package of the Ossa most.

I noticed on some pics of Raga's bike that he is (or maybe was) using the old AJP clutch master cylinder on the TRS. Could be that he used the AJP only during the first season on the TRS.

Nice bike indeed! Similar bike was for sale in Geffen (NL)..

Used Motul Dextron III for two years and switched to Putoline Nano three weeks ago. Clutch feel is different with a bit larger slip zone and shifting is the same (as in very good; like it was with Motul). Don't know yet if I like the different clutch feel or not (after three weekends riding).

Most likely that would be the oil drain bolt. There should be a copper washer used on the bolt to prevent leaking. That copper washer should be replaced regularly. Do not over-tighten the aluminium bolt in an attempt to stop the oil coming out!! And: have a look at the documentation available on www.ossamotor.es!

Pics and model year would help... With lever you are referring to the shift lever I guess. There are roughly two torx bolts 'just behind the lever': oil drain bolt (torx 50) and the torx 25 bolt that closes a hole that was used for the crankcase breather.

The clutch pack height (max. 9,75 mm.) is the most important and sets the height between basket and finger tips. With a varying clutch release point: probably air in the clutch oil.

Documentation is available on http://www.ossamotor.es Changing oil is a fairly simple job. For draining the old oil not only the drain plug -left hand side of the engine- must be used but also the bottom left bolt on the clutch cover. Or, what I do, loosening all bolts on the clutch cover a few turns. And change the oil when its hot, must easier draining! I refill with approx. 400 ml.

Bike looks very nice! About the questions: 1. Nope, no reserve. There is an option to have a fuel indicator light. I never bothered and just fuel up when I think it's time (till now not an issue). 2. Similar to the first: a dual map can be installed. The wiring loom provides the required connections. Will need mapping by the dealer or someone else with software & cable. 3. I am running 1:110 with Motul 800 to stay on the safe side. Mixture depends on use: for pottering about 1:120 will do fine. 4. Both adjusters are on the top of the shock. Removal of the exhaust is required to have good access (though some people have really tiny fingers / high mechanical skills and can adjust the shock without removal of the exhaust). I have a 2015/250 as well and really like it. Maintenance so far: change oil (Motul ATF Dextron III) regularly and lube the chain...

The ring should protect against dirt, but it's an experiment. I found a picture that might explain how a Nilos-ring works. The cavity is filed with grease. Nilos example.pdf

Some time ago I had to replace the wheel bearings of my KTM 990. In order to protect the bearing a Nilos-ring is used on the chain side of the wheel of the KTM. That triggered me to investigate the option to do a similar thing for the front wheel bearings of the Ossa TRi. Yesterday I installed a new set of bearings (SKF) and two Nilos-rings (SKF 61905 AV). Fits perfectly and should give additional bearing life. Wil report back in a year or so ( ) Copied from the SKF site: "Designed to keep dirt, dust, debris and other abrasive contaminants out of ball and roller bearings, all-metal NILOS-Rings help extend bearing uptime in the harshest operating environments and industries."

Out of interest on the pollution topic I google'd a bit and found the following text (http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/pollution.html) "Eighty percent of pollution to the marine environment comes from the land. One of the biggest sources is called nonpoint source pollution, which occurs as a result of runoff. Nonpoint source pollution includes many small sources, like septic tanks, cars, trucks, and boats, plus larger sources, such as farms, ranches, and forest areas. Millions of motor vehicle engines drop small amounts of oil each day onto roads and parking lots. Much of this, too, makes its way to the sea."

I have been using Motorex 628 white grease and Bel Ray Waterproof. Bel Ray holds best. A friend of mine is very enthusiastic about Ditoil 1712 grease; he uses it on LandRovers (used off-road) and it seems to hold up really well. He gave me a small container with 1712 grease; will try it next time for the linkage.

It certainly looks very nice! And greasing the linkage is a five minute job (instead of and#39;a lot longer than that...and#39;) Do you use a specific type of grease or the usual all purpose grease (like Bel Ray)?

Go to www.ossamotor.es/EN/documents.php. The user manual has all the info on dash settings and the service manual shows a wiring diagram with (amongst others) a four pin plug for the temp sensor. Could be that the previous owner modded the loom when the required plugs are not available?

I don't know what gear oil was used, but a bit of fresh good quality ATF (like Motul Dextron3) wouldn't hurt any clutch.

First obvious thing is to check free play at the lever. Second would be to use the original AJP lever. I found that Apico levers have a small but noticeable negative effect on lever pull. Third is to check master cylinder seal; AJP rebuild kits are available. Check internals of the master cylinder before installing the new parts as the internal bore can be damaged. And when the bore is damaged the master cylinder should be replaced. As for a and heavy clutch: pack thickness is critical (as stated in previous posts).

5. wait... 6. repeat 4 (again)...

4, wait

Apparently not.... he's riding an Ossa. Why did you ask? Or wasn't this a question.....

As a novice in trials I found the fuel injected Ossa easier to ride (than previously owned GasGas and Beta), with stable throttle response without 'surprises' due to not-so good carburator settings. I ride it every weekend and sometimes midweek; clean, change oil, lubricate chain and put fuel and ride it (and repeat). Or do I misinterprete your statement and you mean something else?

Not good...; any news on the rocker? It's not very smart to put a sticker with 'Titanium parts' on the outside of the box...

Did you check the voltage regulator? Googled it and found the following info: The regulation functions of a Voltage Regulator unit cannot be easily tested. (We offer testing services on our test bench, where we can accurately diagnose a regulator failure. Please contact us to arrange testing services.) Regulation failures will generally present themselves by over-charging the battery. This may be noticeable by blowing up headlight or taillight bulbs from high voltage, or the battery getting extremely hot, and boiling the acid inside. This can be easily diagnosed with a Digital MultiMeter (DMM). 1: Connect your DMM to the battery terminals, Red DMM lead to the Positive (+) terminal, Black DMM lead to the Negative (-) terminal. 2: Set the DMM to DC Voltage mode, 20V range. 3: Start the engine. 4: Note battery voltage at idle. It should be in the range of 12V - 13VDC at idle. 5: Rev the engine to 4000-5000RPM, and check the DMM reading. 6: The regulator should reach ~14.4 - 14.6VDC. If the voltage continues increasing with RPM over 15VDC, the regulation function is not operating correctly. The regulation function is not serviceable at all, the Voltage Regulator must be replaced. Regulation functions can be intermittent, and get progressively worse. It can be hard to test and be positive of regulator failure, but this is the easiest and most common way to diagnose this failure.

The stock setup will costs about 240 Euro; bushes in rocker included. The price for the titanium set isn't that bad when you have to replace the complete set... And very friendly on maintenance; no need to take stuff apart.

Just Googled with ossa suspension titanium... and found a titanium dog bone link kit for Ossa. It's not cheap but looks really nice and has lifetime warranty on link failure. Price is 680 AusD