tcrhino

Same size as the pin that links the frame to the rocker: SKF 16 17 0 P14

Sizes for 2015 model: Dogbones in swingarm: SKF 16 120 P10 Rocker - central pin: SKF PAF20 165 P10 Rocker - frame pin: SKF 16 17 0 P14

Interesting...!

Though my dealer advises to use Dextron III (Motul) I am considering to use a dedicated gear oil like Putoline Nano. How did the change to Putoline affect the clutch? More or less dragging and did the clutch feel different?

Apply heat to the bolt and the surrounding aluminium (be careful with the painted pump cover...) and use a tight fitting torx bit, drive it in the allen head of the bolt and loosen.... Another option is to dremel a slot in the bolt head and to use a screwdriver. This is a bit more difficult because it is a small bolt. Btw. I am using 450 ml. Motul Textron III (2015 engine).

I used PU paint protection film (mostly used on cars) and it stayed on but got really soft and bubbled a bit... Removed it from the exhaust, but it helps to keep the seat base nice. By the way: keeping your feet outward on the pegs gives more leverage and you will not hit the exhaust (a lot) when moving around.

The conversion kit was issued to replace the chain side plain bearing by double ball bearing. Does your 2011 still have that plain bearing (look closely as there is a sleeve used on that side as well)? There is no need for double bearings on the brake disc side.

Just checked that last statement....: compression can be adjusted fairly easy through a hole in the exhaust mounting bracket. Rebound is a different story; any tips on the rebound adjustment are very welcome (and sorry for hijacking this thread )

Not many hours on mine, repacking not yet required. Because of the rivets repacking a Termi should be easier than a standard exhaust. I repacked other exhausts and made a mistake with the first one to put in to much material... much louder! Rear wheel or swingarm doesn't hit anything on the exhaust. However: on my 280i the exhaust touched the swingarm; after a rear shock update with a new bump stop this didn't happen anymore. Bump stop was updated in 2014? Biggest irritation I have with the Termi is that it is impossible to adjust the rear shock without removing the exhaust!

The thread on the zerks should not overlap the hole in the spindle... I drilled the 1,5 mm. holes to align with the groove in the bearing.

Sorry, no pics available; did the mod on the 280i and the 280 was replaced by a TR250i. I used part of the pic posted by tsiklonaut (no Copyright I hope ). I cross-drilled (perpendicular) the steel shafts that are part of the two dogbones (?) shown left and right in the picture below. Drilling was done slowly because I didn't want to damage the M6 thread inside the shaft.

I drilled two 1,5 mm. holes in the spindles that go into the swingarm. That made it possible to grease the spindles by removing the M6 bolts on both sides and replace temporarily with M6 grease nipples. And refit the original M6 bolts after greasing... Advantage: very easy to grease these bearings. Disadvantage: grease came out on the backside (close to the rear shock) and as we all know: grease is a big dirt collector...

Both TRS and Beta are working on EFI (hearsay from reliable sources); Beta maybe for next year. Vertigo (albeit fairly recent) and Honda (long term) are successful with EFI. From personal experience: in two years Ossa riding (every week) I did not touch any part of the EFI system; still working, including starting, flawlessly. EFI on trials bikes works better than a carb. Period.

On mine the orange is not connected. On the wiring diagram the 'Naranja / NR' (orange) is for either the map sensor (to CDI) or for the temp sensor (to dashboard & CDI)

That's interesting: TrailTech sells smaller digital instruments as well. The full monty dash of the Explorer is too much for me, but a small tach / hour meter with maintenance intervals (change oil now!) would be very useful. Wonder if that plugs in to the Ossa wiring loom...?

Thanks! Should have known that

Triggered by a discussion in the GasGas forum: on an Ossa TR the rpm measurement is available from the ECU (according to documentation standard on CH1). Might be really simple to use that signal and transfer it to a digital display? Probably not really useful ( ) but could be a nice gadget. Did anyone ever consider it?

The 15 degree butterfly is on my 250 and I like it. In comparison with the 280 (rode that one a bit more than a year) the 250 picks up a bit quicker, making it easier to lift the back wheel on obstacles. It has a bit more go than the 280 I do not have the cables and software to map so mapping was done by the dealer.

The magnesium cover looks nice and fits great but... magnesium oxidizes really quick. I just checked the inside of the magnesium cover on my bike and found some white spots.... Short term cure is clean and use corrosion prevention but the better solution is a ceradure coating (just googled it ). So the plastic cover isn't that bad at all and cheap to replace (carbon cover looks nice as well and doesn't corrode...)!

Three weekends old and still a garage queen...

Been lurking for a while and thought it was time to sign up. Bought a trials bike (2005 GasGas 250) two and a half years ago and enjoyed riding trials ever since; road bike use went from 15000 kilometers per year to 5000... Three weeks ago I traded my second bike (Ossa TR280i) for a new 2015 Ossa TR250i. Will post a pic in the Ossa forum.

Dealer advised me to use the original levers and that helped with lever pull (I had Apico levers). Measured both original and Apico and found that the distance from mounting hole to actuator pin was different: about 3 mm. larger on the Apico.