trapezeartist

I've just bought this switch off eBay. It's a CNC aluminium body and "waterproof" (though without any IPxx rating), and it cost just £4 inc postage. It is so much better quality than the OE switch. The handlebar attachment is very narrow so it may go onto the straight bit of frame tube under the seat. If that's not suitable I'll mount it on the handlebar.

True, but it's a plastic pencil-type gauge for prices ranging from £20-£60 online. I could buy a metal one for £6. Anyway, I've got another Apico on order and I'll be sure to check first with the gauge on my compressor if I have any doubts whether a tyre is over 15psi..

How did you do that?

Those are the sort of answers I was expecting, so another Apico it is. I'll be ordering this afternoon. And you're right, konrad, I won't make that mistake again (hopefully).

I need a new tyre pressure gauge. I've just broken my Apico 0-15 psi one by putting it on a new tyre that had been left at very high pressure. As I don't have a separate gauge for my cars, I am thinking of getting a digital gauge that would do both. I'm proposing digital because it will still be readable at normal trials pressures, but does it actually read accurately down at 2.5 psi? Any opinions? Any recommendations?

A Beta 200 or 250 will serve you well. Don't go bigger! The Betas are simple and easy to work on, steer well and will do everything you ask of them. I've never had a Montesa so I can't comment much except to say they sound nice and cost a lot more. I'm now fully converted to electric, so I would also suggest you consider an EM. Cost secondhand is similar to a Montesa or maybe a touch more, but there is much less maintenance and they are brilliant to ride.

The MX bike has no gearbox, but the trials bike has. Putting a gearbox on an electric trials bike has a rationale that is still lost on me. The MX motor is liquid cooled and the trials bike isn't. Now that makes more sense as the MX motor will have to work far harder. Presumably the batteries are different too, due to their very different service conditions. So not a lot in common, really.

Thanks konrad. I tried that search and the only doubled-ended male-to-female cables are from AliExpress, and they are only 20cm long. I haven't measured yet but I need about 1 metre. The pre-wired connectors are on order so that is likely to be the route I go. While I'm waiting for the postman to walk all the way from China I will look out for a suitable IP-rated switch that could be mounted in the under-seat position as an alternative solution. I don't know if the TKO switch will function on the move. I hadn't considered it before but it offers an intriguing possibility if it does. My main objection is the fact that a switch designed to be mounted on a straight bit of tube is mounted on a bend, so mud and water can get into the back of the switch.

It seems to me that the Factor-e may be a step too far. Despite watching and reading all the blurb, I really can't see that the gearbox is an advantage for most people. It might be an advantage on the SSDT just to give you a higher cruising speed on the road, but that's about it. In any other situation it just seems to be a move in the opposite direction to every other electric vehicle on the planet. I was speaking to the Inch Perfect van driver the other day who seemed to be a faithful employee but not a salesman. He has ridden the Factor-e enough to know, but would spend his own money on a 2025 ePure Race.

I've just bought an ex-school 2023 ePure Race from Inch Perfect. It looks beautiful and I'm generally very happy with it, but like any secondhand (or even new) bike there are one or two things to sort out. I'm not impressed with the way the TKO switch is mounted. It's awkwardly inaccessible and is mounted on a curved bit of frame tube so it doesn't fit well. As a consequence mud and water can get into the back of the switch, which has happened. I'm thinking of putting it on the handlebars instead. Has anyone else tried that? It would require a two wire extension about 1 metre long (I haven't measured it yet) with male and female connectors. I can find pre-wired connectors with short tails which I could use but that would entail soldering in a section in the middle which I would like to avoid if possible. Any ideas where I could get a pre-made extension?

¡Holá! Bienvenidos.

I feel your pain. I have created an app to quickly find a defibrillator in an emergency. I have loaded information for all the defies near me but I need other people to act as local admins to add info for their own area. It's https://defib-map.co.uk if anyone cares to have a go.

It definitely sounds like a bad connection somewhere. I'd suggest going through every connector, visual inspection, contact cleaner, then dielectric grease (around the plug, not on the metal bits) and a double check that the connector is back together properly afterwards.

I find rear brakes lacking in feel on any bike. Stiff soled boots just don't transit any information through to your foot, but at least on an EM you can hear what the back tyre is doing. I am really tempted by the idea of putting a left-hand rear brake on my '21 Race but the combination of FRB and rear brake is just about good enough to stop me bothering (so far).

Good idea. Well done!

"Primarily unknown. I've never seen one.

Where in Spain are you? Catalunya is the epicentre of trials.

Funny: yes, that describes my riding. Exotic: maybe not. 🤣

I'm so disappointed. I was thinking that every bike should be fitted with a fun module. 😆

It would be reasonable to assume that the new motor and battery offer advantages regardless of the gearbox (weight, cost, bulk) so it would be crazy not to use them on the Race too.

That's what we need here in the UK. I think that would work well. It all depends a bit on your definition of "difficult" but I could imagine that working right up to Trial GB. Obviously marker flags and rider numbers should use colours to match.

I've noticed that some of our colonial cousins quote the type of route they ride as if it is a standard format. If only we could have something like that in the UK! Every club seems to have a different idea of hard, easy, clubman, sportsman, novice, beginner, gentleman, etc. Most clubs use red/blue for the "main route" but that could be the hardest or the middle route and the use of white and yellow is all over the place. I've also seen red and blue as separate routes. Finally, some clubs mark out deviations from the main route while others mark out all routes in their entirety. Wouldn't it be nice if all clubs worked to a standardised system, at least up to Centre Championship level? (I don't think there is such a problem at Trial GB level.)

That's a definite new piston and re-nikasil. Having said that, there were plenty of times back in the distant past (about 1980!) when I got a seized kart engine back out for the next race by judicious application of wet'n'dry to the piston and barrel. But it did go for a hone and new piston the following week.

Richard Allen would probably have them.

Part of the reason I am so particular over cleaning pads and discs is because I use WD40. I don't think the WD40 is the cause of the problem as I think you are implying.