trapezeartist

Meat is plant-based too. Cows eat grass. 😇

You can readily ride a twin shock in a normal trial, and generally you can also ride a modern bike in a classic trial (though many clubs have a minimum age for the rider). If you're starting off on the easy route, you'll find it's the same severity on both types of trial. I think you need to be an old-bike fan to have a twin-shock or pre-65. Otherwise you just find yourself wishing for something better/newer/more modern. I had a twin-shock for a short while because it seemed the sensible thing to do as I was riding mainly classic club's trials. I quickly changed back to a modern.

I think they rode the tie-decider section three times. I'm not sure of specific scores but Toby won. Quite an achievement without his regular minder and (presumably) his own bike.

I've no idea. I bought them six years ago because they were the only trials boot that claimed to be waterproof, which seems to me to be a fundamental requirement for trials. Sorry no parlo Italiano.

On my EM, I have dielectric grease around all the connectors that run along the top of the frame. And I've used silicone on the cover where the main power cables go into the motor. The only water problem I've had was when the primary drive breather sucked in a bit of water (and that was my fault for routing the breather too low).

My Gaernes are vegan-friendly. They've never once kicked a vegan. 😀

Regarding dubious behaviour in slippery conditions, the owners say the grip is fabulous. There's something about electric, because the EM grips well too.

I can't get to the bike at the moment to take a photo, but the breather comes out of the clutch/primary drive cars on the right hand side just behind the motor. Peer in past the rear brake m/cyl and over the main power cables into the motor and you'll find it there. It should have a black plastic tube attached, which is long enough to lead up to somewhere near the top of the rear shock. If you have any doubt over the clutch or it's oil, lay the bike on its side and take off the cover to have a look. It's a five minute job.

The Mecatecno is an amazing bike. Unfortunately at the moment I can't justify the upgrade cost from my present EM, but I would almost certainly go for it if I could. "Almost" because I would also test a '24 EM before making the final decision. Yes, Mecatecno definitely needs a sub-forum on here as I posted about a year ago, but nothing has happened yet. Xispa has it's own sub-forum and I've never even seen one!

It seems I'm wrong. Apparently there is a new UK importer, though the prices are nowhere what they were. Much closer to the established manufacturers.

Have a look on YouTube. There's a chap from Northern Ireland did a series of about 6 videos on preparation for the SSDT. I don't think it will answer your specific question but you will certainly gain something from it. Also look at the bike preparation advice on the Beta UK website. Even if you're not riding a Beta you'll find a lot of the information applies to any bike.

Gwent Classic have a trial in a couple of weeks, not too far from you.

He last visited the forum 11 months ago, and last posted something over 3 years ago. It seems like he has lost interest. At least it's good that the website is still here, but perhaps it's time to hand over to someone else.

Re the numbers, it helps a lot if clubs provide a second number to go on the back of the helmet. The last few times I've observed I've used the Trial Observer app. Assuming I have a decent view of the front of the bike as it enters the section I tap it in immediately so I don't have to carry the number in my head.

Good solution, at a price! If you think you might get 100 riders, you'll probably need about 200 bibs so you can overlap the numbers and cover varying entries on each route. If the bibs are a fiver each, that's £1000!

This post had sunk so I forgot it and didn't update. I also have used a '22 command switch which I mounted upside-down. That puts the FRB button in a better place for my thumb, and I can live with the word 'map' being upside-down. I believe '23 switches are reversed from '22. I've also just fitted a Domino throttle. I advances the potentiometer 2 teeth to remove the dead motion but it is a little bit too tight now, so getting it spot-on is still a work in progress.

It's way bigger than a big deal. Who else has managed it in the last few years? Adam Raga, not for a while I think. Jaime Busto, once or twice. No-one else as far as I know.

I solved my licence/wallet problem. Last years licence was an ‘expired pass’ so was hidden. This years licence overwrote it when I clicked ‘Add’ but it stayed hidden. Once I undid it all was well.

Gwent Classic run several trials in your area.

Bit by bit I've overcome the various obstacles thrown into my path by Sport 80. I now have a club membership and a trials registration. My one remaining problem is how to get the Competitor Licence into my Apple Wallet on my iPhone. This is a screen grab. I would have thought that clicking "Add" would finish the job but instead it just disappears. I thought it might be in "Downloads" but it's not.

13 or 14 months have passed since its introduction and it's still a mess. The ACU should have had a dedicated system made for them (it wouldn't have been that hard) instead of trying to adapt some one-size-fits-all package that probably doesn't fit anyone.

This happened to me when I got my first trials bike. I've always been obsessive (on karts and racing cars) about having a short-travel hard pedal so I adjusted the bike's brakes the same way. I went out for my first practice, twice around the car park and I fell off! The front brake had locked up. Very embarrassing.😳

1000 watts of solar is pretty big.

Getting back to the original question, I've never had a problem with a magnetic kill switch so I would not differentiate between Apico and Leonelli. I use the switch to disable my motor every time I stop, so IF the magnet ever came out it would be more likely to be when I am stopping rather than falling off. I wouldn't use the curly lead type sold for outboards as they are too stretchy and probably won't cut the motor unless you totally dismount. My only issue with kill switches is the strap itself. Mine frayed for some reason and broke so it currently has a knot tied in it. Eventually I'll get round to replacing it. I really liked the link to Etsy but the postage costs more than the item so that's out.

Suggestions?