trapezeartist

That's what we need here in the UK. I think that would work well. It all depends a bit on your definition of "difficult" but I could imagine that working right up to Trial GB. Obviously marker flags and rider numbers should use colours to match.

I've noticed that some of our colonial cousins quote the type of route they ride as if it is a standard format. If only we could have something like that in the UK! Every club seems to have a different idea of hard, easy, clubman, sportsman, novice, beginner, gentleman, etc. Most clubs use red/blue for the "main route" but that could be the hardest or the middle route and the use of white and yellow is all over the place. I've also seen red and blue as separate routes. Finally, some clubs mark out deviations from the main route while others mark out all routes in their entirety. Wouldn't it be nice if all clubs worked to a standardised system, at least up to Centre Championship level? (I don't think there is such a problem at Trial GB level.)

That's a definite new piston and re-nikasil. Having said that, there were plenty of times back in the distant past (about 1980!) when I got a seized kart engine back out for the next race by judicious application of wet'n'dry to the piston and barrel. But it did go for a hone and new piston the following week.

Richard Allen would probably have them.

Part of the reason I am so particular over cleaning pads and discs is because I use WD40. I don't think the WD40 is the cause of the problem as I think you are implying.

You can also make putting the wheel in easier by temporarily putting a cable-tie between the pads to hold them apart.

Never used it before that first time mentioned in my original post. But it's not something I want to do before every trial. Anyway, last trial I used an old set of pads and didn't use the brake cleaner. That worked. For the future I shall continue to scuff the pads with abrasive, but wipe them off with dry paper and put them straight in. I'll still use brake cleaner on the discs because I use a lot of WD40 for cleaning, but I'll abrade them afterwards, not before. Hopefully that should see the job OK.

Yes, every trial. It's something I've done ever since I raced cars and karts as they were very prone to glazing when burbling back to the paddock with hot brakes. I've continued the procedure with the trials bike because I always find a film of dried mud on the face of the pads. It's interesting that you would point your finger at the brake cleaner. The can is nearly empty so it has been used successfully quite a few times and the problem has only appeared at the last two trials. I've just re-prepped the bike and put the old pads back in so I'll see what they are like. Before the weekend I'll also have a sneaky ride down the road to check the brake beforehand.

When I had my Beta 250 (UK spec) I was tempted to do the opposite, just to find out the answer to your question. I never did though. The issue I did find with the heavy flywheel was that on up-changes the bike slowed down faster than the engine so gear changes were clunky and unsynchronised. Obviously it didn't affect trials performance but I did find it ugly.

I agree with timdog. Just one small thing to add. On slow turns using the front brake is likely to cause it to slip away from you because it is at an extreme angle to the direction of drive and is already reluctant to roll. Except on an uphill turn I would use a bit of rear brake so that the motor has to work against it all the time. That way the only thing you need to control your speed is to modulate the throttle. Otherwise you may find yourself trying to flip between a touch of throttle, then a touch of brake, and that's much more difficult.

I've recently found a problem with lack of braking power on the front of my Electric Motion. First, a little bit of background: I've had the bike for three years and this problem has just started. The front brake is a braktec monobloc. My normal procedure between trials is to abrade both pads and disc with wet'n'dry and clean with brake cleaner. Three trials ago I fitted new Galfer red pads. For the first trial they worked fine. At both of the next two I found that the braking power was very weak. Although it was something I had never done before, and was a bit sceptical about, I rode up and down a bit with the front brake on to heat it up, then sprayed it with water. It was hot enough to hiss and generate quite a lot of steam. Thankfully this procedure seemed to get the brake working adequately but it's going to be a bit of a pain if I have to do that every trial. Does anyone have any thoughts? Just to confirm, the hydraulics have not been disturbed and the lever feels just as firm as ever. If I don't find any other solution I think I will put back the old pads for the next trial and see if they are any better.

No-one! 🤣

I've forgotten how the response compares; it was a very fine difference. I just like the Domino for it's quality feel and stronger return spring. As you say free play is OK, I assume you bought direct from an EM dealer. I bought mine (much cheaper) from a different source. Moving the pot 1 tooth wasn't enough and 2 teeth was too much I ended up going 2 teeth and trimming a bit off the closed-stop to get it right. Quite a lot of work but it's lovely now.

Meat is plant-based too. Cows eat grass. 😇

You can readily ride a twin shock in a normal trial, and generally you can also ride a modern bike in a classic trial (though many clubs have a minimum age for the rider). If you're starting off on the easy route, you'll find it's the same severity on both types of trial. I think you need to be an old-bike fan to have a twin-shock or pre-65. Otherwise you just find yourself wishing for something better/newer/more modern. I had a twin-shock for a short while because it seemed the sensible thing to do as I was riding mainly classic club's trials. I quickly changed back to a modern.

I think they rode the tie-decider section three times. I'm not sure of specific scores but Toby won. Quite an achievement without his regular minder and (presumably) his own bike.

I've no idea. I bought them six years ago because they were the only trials boot that claimed to be waterproof, which seems to me to be a fundamental requirement for trials. Sorry no parlo Italiano.

On my EM, I have dielectric grease around all the connectors that run along the top of the frame. And I've used silicone on the cover where the main power cables go into the motor. The only water problem I've had was when the primary drive breather sucked in a bit of water (and that was my fault for routing the breather too low).

My Gaernes are vegan-friendly. They've never once kicked a vegan. 😀

Regarding dubious behaviour in slippery conditions, the owners say the grip is fabulous. There's something about electric, because the EM grips well too.

I can't get to the bike at the moment to take a photo, but the breather comes out of the clutch/primary drive cars on the right hand side just behind the motor. Peer in past the rear brake m/cyl and over the main power cables into the motor and you'll find it there. It should have a black plastic tube attached, which is long enough to lead up to somewhere near the top of the rear shock. If you have any doubt over the clutch or it's oil, lay the bike on its side and take off the cover to have a look. It's a five minute job.

The Mecatecno is an amazing bike. Unfortunately at the moment I can't justify the upgrade cost from my present EM, but I would almost certainly go for it if I could. "Almost" because I would also test a '24 EM before making the final decision. Yes, Mecatecno definitely needs a sub-forum on here as I posted about a year ago, but nothing has happened yet. Xispa has it's own sub-forum and I've never even seen one!

It seems I'm wrong. Apparently there is a new UK importer, though the prices are nowhere what they were. Much closer to the established manufacturers.

Have a look on YouTube. There's a chap from Northern Ireland did a series of about 6 videos on preparation for the SSDT. I don't think it will answer your specific question but you will certainly gain something from it. Also look at the bike preparation advice on the Beta UK website. Even if you're not riding a Beta you'll find a lot of the information applies to any bike.

Gwent Classic have a trial in a couple of weeks, not too far from you.