trapezeartist

The built-in search within the forum is rubbish. It's better to use google and include "trialscentral" in your search term.

When you're wearing a coffin, you're too old. Otherwise, you're not. 😃

Tidy looking bike. Have fun.

+1 for taking off the barrel and piston after your trial today. Hopefully you won't have the bore back in that state again after a small amount of running. I think you'll probably have to clean the piston rings and ring grooves as they are likely to have more of the gunk you found on the bore. Assuming the bore and piston top look clean, I'd put it all back and ride it, but whip the head off after a few more trials to check how things are evolving. While you have the top end apart, check the small end bearing and the up/down clearance of the rings in their grooves. There's maybe an outside chance that the source of your rattle is somewhere there.

That's what I'm hoping. 🙂

Yes, "peso en vacio" would translate as "dry weight".

I tried the no-weights version today in the rain, with the sections getting slipperier with every lap. No problems with traction but it was certainly easier to lift the front wheel (old non-athletic rider on green map). Hopefully I can try it again in drier conditions before finally making up my mind.

Out of interest, I timed my loading up this morning. 5 minutes from opening the garage door to closing it again. That included loading tools and clothing, putting a cover over the passenger seat, fetching and laying out the straps, loading the bike and strapping it into place.

The Quickload looks to me like a solution searching for a problem. I use a couple of ratchet straps and the bike can be loaded in about 1 minute.

All ePures have them. I don't know about older bikes.

I don't understand your tickover comment. If the throttle sticks, the engine is going to run at the speed/torque of the throttle opening regardless of tickover. Every petrol bike runs with a tickover without apparent problems. Notwithstanding, my bike doesn't have TKO and I can't see what benefit it would give me. I think it's just there to help woo petrol bike owners over to EM.

Electric bikes don't stall though.

I've not yet opened the flywheel cover of my 2021 Race, even though I've had the bike for over 2 years. However, looking at the instructional videos on the EM website, it looks like the flywheel has 2 extra discs held by a ring of 6 screws. Am I right? Has anyone here tried removing the weights? As I don't use the clutch I'm thinking that I don't need the flywheel for winding up inertia before dumping the clutch. Instead I think I may get a little bit more snap for lifting over logs if the flywheel is lighter.

Forgive my electrical ignorance (my skills don't go much beyond Ohm's Law and wiring a plug). I had always understood that the PRB would not work on some bikes (including mine) presumably because of a difference in the programming of the controller. From your wiring diagram it appears that it would work on any Race, just by fitting something that will deliver 0-5v to pin 15. Am I right? Your description of your hybrid design went over my head too. I get the concept. I just can't see how to translate that into real life. Any chance of part descriptions, part numbers, etc?

I found the regen section very interesting. If I read it correctly you seem to be saying that the regen terminals on the controller read 0 to 5v to give progressive regen, even on models where EM say you can only have fixed regen. Am I right? Having not ridden with PRB, but liking my FRB, my ideal solution would be to keep the FRB as-is, but add a little bit of regen on throttle closed like the Dragonfly has. There are occasions when I find the EM a bit too free running. This is all on a '21 ePure Race BTW.

Isn't it time there was a bike-specific forum for Mecatecno? They are real, they're here and there were two competing at the trial I did last weekend.

Up to breakfast time on trial day, I just eat normally. I take a bottle of 50/50 orange juice and water to drink during the event. If it's a hot day I'll need to supplement that with more water. I don't eat during a trial: it's only 3 hours! After the trial I might be tempted by the burger van. If not I'll eat a banana or apple on my way home and perhaps a Mars bar if it hasn't melted in the car.

I could, but not really worth it for just looking around. But my main point is that EM have included such hotbeds of trials as Israel and Romania yet excluded the UK (and USA). Why exclude any country? Have we upset the French again? 😆

I don't have a compatible bike (😪) but I decided to download the iPhone version of the app anyway, just to have a poke around. When I tried to sign-up I found that it won't accept UK phone numbers. When you click to select country (rather than using the phone's default) UK isn't there. I tried switching to Spain and it tried to send the confirmation text message but obviously I don't actually have a Spanish phone account. Something of an omission there Mr EM.

Well, the only common thread between most people is WD40, so I'll definitely stick with that bit of my process. Paraffin or diesel? I think I'll give diesel a go, and see how it goes.

The chain is probably the most ill-treated part of a trials bike. We dose it with mud, dust and water and put sudden shock loads through it, and most of the time it serves us faithfully and well. I have my own system for cleaning and lubrication but I wonder what other people do. My procedure goes as follows: After washing the bike I give the chain a spray of WD40 before putting it away. Unless the chain is looking unusually clean, I take it off and wash it in paraffin, brushing thoroughly and then hand it up to drip. After 24 hours + I refit the chain. On completion of the bike's general maintenance I spray the chain with chain lube. I'm using Muc Off Dry at the moment but I'm not too picky and buy whatever I see. I'm wondering whether diesel would be better for washing the chain. It should have better lubricating properties and may be as good (or better) for cleaning. Are the on-bike chain cleaning gadgets any good?

That's it, and it will have the same on the barrel somewhere. If it's been re-nikasiled, the old grade should be obliterated and a new one stamped beside it.

Welcome! I'm also just across the water from you (Portishead). Finding practice areas nearby is always difficult though I think there's one down towards Swansea, a long way for me but pretty handy for you. Gwent Classic run some good trials around Monmouth area, perfect for a beginner.

Wow! Someone starting older than me (albeit you have far more other bike experience than I had). Welcome to the club.

If you're going for a barrel only, bear in mind that Beta bores are graded (A, B, C, D, from memory). So if you're hoping to re-use your piston you'll need a barrel of the same grade.