markbxr400

If you decide to do this and need any help (pics and step-by-step), let me know. I just did all of this on my 4T and documented and took pictures of everything since I was able to find very little on the web regarding how to. It's not hard to do, but it seems that for every thing you want to do, there are 5 additional thing you have to do to get at what you're wanting to do.

Completed the wall. Also cut a steeper hill within one of my hills that I plan to throw a series of logs across.

Have been working on a splatter wall and step up for the past couple of days. Should get it finished tomorrow. Even the local crop-duster swung over to see what was going on . . .

Have you checked your pilot screw setting, and whether your pilot jet may have trash in it?

When your bike simply dies on you (typically when letting off the throttle then getting back on it). Usually happens at the worst moment possible, like just as you are hitting the second blip on a double blip.

Not sure your elevation. I'm at sea level and changed my 16 200 4T jetting to 132.5 main, 25 idle jet, and 4th slot from the top on the needle. It was the same as yours (27.5, 120, 3rd clip position, but only 1-1/4 turns out - I'm now at 2 turns). I also changed from the blue spring (>5,000 ft) to the silver spring (<5,000 ft). PO rode at 12,000 ft, so my bike was extremely lean at sea level. Lots of decel pop and flameouts. I also did blow the rubber intake boot off the carb. Then it would only start with the choke on, and would have a major backfire and die if I pushed the choke off. With my changes, the bike runs fantastic, idles very well, no decal pop and no flameouts. Fans on these things do run quite a bit from my experience. Make sure both boots are very well mounted when you put it back together.

BTW, on the front shock, did you loosen the upper triple clamp bolt? Not sure whether required or not, but everything I've read said to loosen it. I did, and had no problems getting the collar and spring out.

On the rear, it's not a matter of just loosening the nuts to slip the C-collar off, you have to back them off enough to create enough clearance for the C-collar to move down to where it is over the smaller shock piston shaft before it will slide off. Look at the second pic, by the time you get the pre-load off the spring, and then make enough room for the C-collar to slide down far enough to get over the piston shaft (another 1/2" or so), you pretty much have to back the nuts almost off. Also, slide the big yellow rubber bushing down. Finally, know that the spring is a different diameter at each end and can only go on correctly one way. Hope this helps. While I took mine entirely off because I was taking the carb out, I'm positive I could have swapped the spring on the bike.

Just a followup - boot was pulled off the carb. Took the opportunity to pull and grease the swingarm and wheel axles, respring front and rear, rejet, change the carb spring as well as oil, filter, clean air filter, etc . . .

Just stick a coat hanger with a hook on the end in far enough to grab the first rung of the spring and see if you can get the spacer to break free. Should come right out.

Demo at the bike show in Japan . . . (go to 5:55)

Wonder what the key differences are between this plug and the Iridium version of the stock plug (iridium CR7EIX)?

The 2018 brochure is showing a different plug (NGK MR7B1-8) than is in my 2016 Evo 4T 300 (NGK CR7EB). This is the Factory bike brochure, so don't know whether that makes a difference.

Or get the Long Range kit and at least have some semblance of a seat to get where you want to ride trials (+ have some gas when you get there). Love my Long Range Seat . . .

Yes, look at my earlier post. Pops on and off with simple removal of the bolls and rubber band, and no fuel lines to fool with.

After a lot of hard work, she finally finished phase 1. A trials area, some single track, a lot of wide open spaces, and a few areas to relax.

Curious why a compression check because of an altitude change. Please tell me more.

Thanks. It's pushed all the way in.

a few more . . .

My 3-year old trials buddy has been helping me with my dirt bike single track trails and my trials setup. Man, it's hot down here . . .already!

Thanks all. I understand the fuel solenoid, and tried it in manual (always open). Didn't think about the vent line being plugged - that could be it. Or the air filter being saturated, or a bad plug. Or maybe needing to drain the float bowl. Will give all these a shot and see if I can get it running somewhat. I do notice a lot of decel pop and flameouts, so I know its also running lean. I bought my bike from a fellow rider in Colorado Springs that had it set up for 10,000 feet + (jets and spring). I'm at sea level. Spoke with Ron at RL Racing today. He's sending me some jets, and I'll start tearing into the carb and checking for trash in the jets when I receive these.

Relatively new to me 2016 EVO 300 4T. Out riding yesterday, bike was running fine. Wheelied to a stop in the fork of the tree, and parked the bike in a wheelie position for a few minutes while I did some trail maintenance. Pulled the bike out of the tree, and couldn't start it. Assumed I had flooded or starved it. Finally, after about 50 kicks, got it started. It ran for a minute then died. Repeated, got it started again. It would run at a slow throttle pace, but would bog when I added more throttle. Thinking I ended up with some trash somewhere in the fuel system. Before I pull apart the carb, I thought I should determine whether this bike has a fuel filter. Pulled the parts fiche which shows one in the fuel line between the petcock and carb. Doesn't exist on my bike. Is there a fuel filter on this bike, for instance, inside the tank or somewhere else? Thanks for any help. Here's what the fiche shows (#10, which isn't present on my bike):

From the 2016 EVO 4T Manual: FORK OIL SHELL TELLUS S2 V32 - SAE 6.1

She's loving it! Also, after the first few minutes she started standing on the pegs on her own.

Thanks for all the concern and advice. Bike was bought new in the spring. PO's first order of business was to tear it apart and grease everything. I'm simply wanting to replace the spring at this point. I have 4 bikes at the moment, have had close to 30 in the past 15 years and do my own maintenance. It's not that I couldn't do it, it's that it really isn't necessary at the moment, so just wanting to save some time and effort. Thanks again.