jse

First guess. It's been a long time since I worked with the Mono clutches, but in section 3-19 of the owner's manual (for the 350 anyway), it shows an adjustment in the center of the pressure plate that may need to be reset, ie backed out a little. I'd start there first. There may be a specification in the manual as to how to measure the clutch plates for wear and the number of plates in the pack just to be sure everything is good to start with. Jon

I've used the dual-stage reeds in all my off-road race engines and my personal bikes since Boyesen came out with them. I swear by them as my experience has been they are a very good product and give good value for the expense. I did some dyno testing years ago and they gave boost all throughout the rev range. I have not used the single stage carbon reeds but I would bet they do the job. Jon

4) Sucked into the case vent tube during water crossings. 5) coolant pushed past a good water pump seal if the radiator vent tube is blocked, causing over-pressurization of cooling system. Jon

At least 4th would be my guess also. Newer Trials bikes with light weight, high compression, massive flywheel and low gearing are fairly hard to bump start compared to a "standard" bike, and the rider is usually on terrain with marginal traction to start with. Choose a gear higher than you think might work. Jon

They made a 125 and 200 model in 1999, your VIN relates to the "200" model as I remember. at http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html you'll find a bunch of well-organized info and videos to help you with the bike. We have a couple of the 99' 200s in our club and they are still going strong, good bike for a new rider. Jon

I doubt you will find a good, safe generic replacement. The qualities of motorcycle foam filter oil are quite specific, for one, the dispersing solvent is designed not to deteriorate the open cell foam material or the special cement used to hold the filter together. Get the wrong oil and you've just ruined a lot of customer's engines. Jon

I agree. I'm not quite sure what problem this new rule is designed to address, maybe someone can explain? Jon

No problem, just ride. The range of engagement and drag may change slightly (for the better) but just go out and have fun. Jon

It makes the throttle action really smooth, especially when you're searching for traction with subtle input to the engine. And, you don't have to clean it out after each ride, I clean my throttle tube maybe once or twice a year. Jon

Yes, the new clutch is a drop-in, just be sure to put the thicker plate in first (the directions are usually on the package). The clutch "action" will improve after a little break-in time. Jon

Most of the new clutch packs come with two 2mm thick steel discs, two fibers of the same thickness and the third is a variable plate that is chosen to set the installed pack width. The third disc should always be installed first. Because the two steel discs are 2mm, it's unusual that you can set the pack width with the old style steel plates (they come in 1.3, 1.4. 1.5, 1.6mm, although there is supposed to be a 1.8 available, I've never seen one) because the difference between the 2mm and the replaced disc is generally a little too much and the pack ends up too thin. I usually save all old fibers in good shape to help a rider get by until they get a new clutch. Sometimes you can mix and match to come up with a suitable pack. Jon

You really can't tell by looking at the o-ring and seal. M/C repair kits are still available and theres a good chance that would fix your problem. If the o-ring on the plunger is worn (easily done if the rubber boot is compromised) it will allow air to enter the system, which will gravitate to the upper fitting area of the M/C. A large syringe attached to the reservoir line will often flow enough fluid to move the bubble out of the top of the M/C to the caliper (sometimes laying the bike on the left side will help). Usually air leaks in the system fittings will show by fluid leaking out under pressure. There is a temporary pressure depression in the system when the pedal is released, which can draw air past the M/C o-ring (at the other end of the plunger rod that the seal is attached to), which otherwise is not under pressure. Jon

I have the Hebo ones on both standard and fat bars and never had them come loose. They remove easily to change grips and don't get stuck in the bar like the old type. PSchrauber's advice is good. On the throttle side make sure the hole is not too small as the throttle is so smooth, you'll notice any drag. Jon

I've used them for several years now. I was never a fan of the regular bar ends as they let dirt into the throttle tube way too easily but the bearing ends really work well. The throttle is always smooth and the ends are quite stout. One thing I found, for me anyway, is not to cut off the "rib" at the closed end of the grip and just cut a hole in the closed end of the grip small enough to pass the bar end shaft through. When I first installed the bar ends, I cut off that rib and the grips felt very uncomfortable with the edge of my palm rubbing the stationary bar end. It's amazing how little things involving the controls (lever angles/shapes, bar angles/height, grip patterns etc.) can drive one nuts, but that sure was one for me. I run the bearings on all my bikes as I know as a fact, that I will drop the bars on a rock the first time I ride the bike after installing a new set of grips. Jon

The 315 engine was double the size of your bike (with the related moving internal mass), so it's not necessarily a direct comparison but you might consider lowering your gearing a little more to fit your present riding style. To set idle: 1) engine in neutral and warmed up, quickly "blip" the throttle on/off from idle and adjust the mixture screw (it's the one closest to the manifold, on your left as you look at the carb) in and/or out to get the best off-idle throttle response with no "bogging". 2) engine in 1st gear and warm, with the clutch lever pulled back normally (usually with one finger and back to the knuckles) adjust the idle speed screw (the screw in the "center" of the carb body, to the right of the mixture screw) to to get a reasonable idle speed. You may want to adjust the idle speed up/down later, based on experience, but this will get you started. Jon

Just to follow the process of elimination, check for fuel flow at the petcock (actually, it would be good to take it out and make sure the filters are clean) and be sure the vent is installed the proper way. There is an o-ring in the carb cap, check to be sure it was not lost. You might want to take the manifold off and check to be sure the reed tips are not broken or frayed.

NGK BPR5ES, or better, an NGK BPR5EIX set to .6mm Jon

We usually ran 650-700cc's with good results. Jon

You guys are always welcome at our events! We should have some later in the year and next year too. Check the NEOTT website for a schedule. Some of our riders plan to come out and ride your events, you have some great Trials there. Jon

Gate opened at noon (lots of area to ride/practice in), dinner was at 7 and riders meeting at 8 and then the fun began. Jon

NEOTT had one of their night Trials last Saturday. Great fun and good turnout. The venue is 15 acres with it's own dedicated lighting and sound systems. Lots of banks, ravines and many, many neat man-made obstacles to play on (some of those huge earth-mover tires weigh 10,000 lbs!). It's a non-points event so the rules are loose and you can ride up a class if you want (and touch a split if you don't knock it off etc.... Scores are kept but just for bragging rights. A great catered Mexican feast and lots of smiles and laughter. http://www.kjrh.com/dpp/sports/local_sports/dirt-biking-at-night-in-broken-arrow Jon

Bleeding the back brake can be a big hassle, as most of us know. One of the big problems is that the "feed" line from the reservoir is below the pressure outlet (which allows a big bubble to stay in the hose fitting area). The other problem is that using pedal pressure does not move enough fluid to dislodge a bubble of any size. The two best ways I've found are: 1. Use a large syringe hooked into the reservoir line to back bleed towards the caliper (making sure the M/C piston is retracted back). 2. If that doesn't work, loosening the M/C, lowering it down and turning it upside down, then pushing on the piston (a #2 Phillips screwdriver works well) and bleeding the system in the "traditional" way. Jon

I've used JB Weld for many years in race engines, from porting changes to re-contouring internal crankcase surfaces. Great stuff and performs well under extreme conditions. Be sure to prepare the surface with a little very rough sandpaper and non-residue solvent. JB also makes a 5-minute cure time epoxy, I've used both and had no problem with either. Jon

Copey, It's what I live for........... As I mentioned before, this is ballpark stuff and if you really care about setting up your suspension, you will make changes (one at a time) and judge the results accordingly. It's not rocket science but it can be time consuming to do correctly. Jon

A higher compression insert in the head can help. Boyesen dual-stage reeds are a little more sensitive at low RPMs and time spent getting the carb off-idle response clean will be rewarded. A heavier flywheel will cut down on engine response a little but comes in real handy when you spool up and use clutch and engine momentum for a quick shot up obstacles and it reduces traction problems in iffy terrain. Jon