jse

I like that too. At the Donner World Rounds, we had a lot of trouble re-doing the sections in the mornings that the minders, etc. went out and messed up the night before. I'd like to see the observer's minders be armed with high-powered paintball guns and non-washable paintballs..... Jon

One only has to look at the swarm of "helpers" into the lower part of the section when the observer's attention is on the rider at the upper part of a section. I have a lot of stories from my WTC observing duties, but to give a very small idea of some of the lengths the teams go through to tip the scales in their favor I'll relate just one. At the 1997 WTC round at Donner, on Section 11, in the back part of the course, my helpers and I were waiting for a young Spanish rider to show up on the first loop. Shortly beforehand, a couple of breathless young lads came up and positioned themselves right next to the most difficult part of the section and seemed to be awaiting the rider's appearance. They both had a couple of what we used to call, in my younger days, "crickets" which were a small bug shaped toy with a short spring steel piece, when pressed, went "click-click". They started loudly clicking them and making noises when the rider entered the section and although this behavior seemed out of place, but I didn't find the high-frequency clicks really distracting while I was busy with the rider. The rider got a multi-dab 3, at which time the minder demanded loudly that his rider was distracted by the boys and should immediately be given a re-ride. I said I did not feel the rider should be given a re-ride under the circumstances. He then pleaded his case to my helpers in an effort to have them influence my decision, but my oldest son and best friend felt my call was appropriate and they also were not distracted. The minder then started a barrage of Spanish epithets that, unfortunately for the minder, I understood. After he had vented his feigned rage, I replied that his mother would not be proud of him for his behavior this day. I had noticed that after the rider had gone out the exit gate, the "offending" spectators took off on a run down the loop, apparently to the next section. After the event that day, I later saw both lads in the tent of the rider, having a snack with the minder and a check with the observers on section 12 revealed the same occurance had occured there. This trick would only work once but was probably good for a few points off the riders score when pulled on an unexperienced observer. Jon

I'm with John on this one, and would guess that unless you've actually checked a section at the World Round level, it's very difficult to understand what they are responsible for and what level of training/background they may have had to deal with those responsibilities. You have only one perspective (where you are actually standing) and it takes a lot of concentration to do your job. You try to stay in one spot in the section so that if you are missing a dab in a certain area of the section that is not directly visible, chances you will miss it equally for all the riders as you want to be as fair as possible. You more than often have to make a subjective decision, did the rider lose a point (that may decide the outcome of this day's event) by gaining support or was the boot just scraping that rock? You try to be as accurate as possible but you want to balance that with being as fair as possible. Sometimes it feels like you have a bull's eye on your back as no matter what you call, someone usually is going to be upset with your decision and some of the things the minder's try to get away with will often test your limits of anger management. The list goes on and on. An observers talent for their job will probably vary more than the talent riders bring to an event and as they are, most likely, volunteers who are doing the best they can (I doubt any of the observers set out to do a bad job) I would offer that maybe some deserve a "little slack" as we say on this side of the pond. I've been a section observer at three World Rounds, more Nationals than I can count and an untold number of club Trials and in spite of all the hassles and pressures involved in the job, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. It's one of the most rewarding jobs I can think of and an absolute necessity for the sport. Jon

From my experience, Cody seems to like the Colorado rocks. As for Donner, I also think I remember Kipp carrying a very young Cody around the Donner Lodge at Trials, so Cody will be riding where he grew up and learned to ride. I agree, the next two Nationals will be a real battle and both riders (and Keith included) are strong competiters and we ought to see some outstanding rides. Jon ps. And don't forget, No-Jive Clive will undoubtedly be there, and Cody won't want to make any big mistakes, Clive will never let him forget it....

I agree, at 224+- lbs, you'll probably be happier with a heavier spring. I think that heavier front springs are also available if you need them. Jon

I've replaced the countershaft sprocket seal without taking everything apart (just pop off the sprocket and pull off the bushing and o-rings). I think there are 2 o-rings under the bushing, one thinner than the other, and you might want to replace those while you're at it. Just be very careful not to scratch any surface that the seal lip rides on. You can use a large socket to act as a seal driver. Expect the circlip to be a little difficult to install on the countershaft as the o-rings need to be compressed a little. I put the circlip on the end of the shaft and use a socket that just fits over the shaft diameter and tap on the socket to force the circlip down where it will then snap into the groove. When crud gets behind the sprocket it tends to force fine grit into the seal lip edge, causing premature wear. Jon

My 02 Pro had the reservoir attached up by the airbox intake, much like the older models and I made a bracket to move it down under the tank like the newer Pros. It's easier to see and service. There is a spring clip that the reservoir bolts to that attaches to the cylinder brace in the newer bikes, if you look at a newer bike you'll see how they go and your GG dealer should be able to get one for you, I doubt they cost much. Jon

I'd probably get a new hub to be safe and it may even be cheaper in the long run. If you want to try it yourself, just remember that it's a long, slow job to do it correctly the first time, but you'll learn a new skill in the process. Truing can be done on the swingarm after the wheel is assembled although a truing stand makes it a lot easier. If your rim is bent or warped, it will add a lot of extra work as you'll need to compensate during the truing process (if you can). Check to see if the rim is "offset" or "centered" by looking at the wheel directly from the back of the bike and seeing if the rim is to the left, right or center of the hub centerline. If it's offset, you'll need to measure how far to set the rim center out from the hub center and on which side. Most Trials models use centered rims and there will be two lengths of spokes. The longer spokes will go on the outside of the tabs on the hub as they have to wrap around the outside of the tab. The shorter spokes will have their bend on the inside of the tab on the way to the rim. Spoke patterns for dirt bikes are almost always what's known as a "cross-four" pattern, which provides the best strength. If you look at the wheel from the side, you'll see groups of two sets of crossed spokes close together. ie. "cross-four". Buy a really good spoke wrench, as they are specially designed with a wide gripping surface that does not strip the nipple flats. When you get to the final truing, you can tape a wire on the swingard to use as a wobble gauge. Sometimes a wide felt tip pen can be held near the rim and will give a black band on the rim where the rim runs out and the center of the band is the area of greatest run out. You'll want to give the nipple a few turns at the center of the band and a lesser number of turns proportionally to the nipples going out from the center of the band. Wipe the pen mark off with a little solvent on a rag and repeat. Jon

We Yanks love to beat our chests, wave our flags and get p***ed at the wrong people, it ranks right up there with the Super Bowl for us.... Jon

The "in all the way in or out " comment makes me think you may have the wrong idea of how that adjustment works. It is only to set the clearance at the adjustment screw/M/C plunger junction. Back the adjustment screw all the way out, then in until it just contacts the plunger that goes through the boot on the M/C. Back it out a tad so that the end of the lever travels about 3-5mm before the screw starts to put pressure on the plunger. Jon

Just got home from out of town and saw your post, went out to parts stock and got a new bearing out: It's a Timkin "X30203". Some brands may have a different number, but a bearing shop can cross reference the Timkin number from that and give you what you need. Jon

Funny you should mention it, I happen to be down on Galveston Island, Texas for a short time (don't tell Copey, I'll never live it down....) and there must be something in the air or water in Texas (besides the oil) that has an effect on people. I suddenly got this intense desire to be politically incorrect, walk with a swagger and buy a huge black pickup truck and cut everybody off in traffic......... Jon

Duh. Seriously, I didn't even think about viewing on a computer. Now I'll get to bring it on trips with me. Excellent! Jon

First two things to check: There is a little clearance where the lever adjustment screw meets the plunger that goes into the master cylinder (the plunger goes through the rubber boot). That the piston is starting to build pressure as soon as the lever is pulled. If the piston seal is worn and not sealing at first movement in the normally slightly tapered M/C bore, the system will not build pressure until it travels into the smaller diameter part of the bore. An adjustment of the lever screw back enough to allow the piston to return back to the stop completely should be the first thing to check. A rebuild kit should fix the second issue. Jon

Never tried it on a Ti pipe, but a sharpened piece of copper pipe will remove nasties from a chrome pipe, the copper being softer than the chrome and will not scratch it. Jon

Mark, You'll need a player than can handle the "PAL" format, most all players in the U.S. are "NTSC". I have a couple of what are called "all-region" DVD players and they can play both PAL and NTSC as I get a lot of Trials and motorcycle videos from Europe, which are the PAL format. Jon

I think so also. Notice the Monster logo on the fuel tank, it's a "theme" bike, not a special model. Jon

When you raise the small circlip to one of the upper grooves, you are "leaning out" the needle, or dropping it as some say. So, you want to move the circlip up one groove to get a leaner mixture "raise the clip, lower the needle". If you have the Keihin carb, you have an air screw adjustment, not a fuel screw adjustment, so adjusting it out will give a leaner mixture, whereas adjusting a fuel screw out (like on a Dellorto) will give a richer mixture, so you need to be sure what kind of carb you have. Generally, there is no "standard" setting for a fuel/air screw (which is why it's adjustable and not set from the factory) but on the Keihin PWK28, for instance, if the pilot jet size, needle clip setting and needle jet/needle profile are correct for the ambient conditions, when the air screw is adjusted for best throttle response and low-speed running, it will be in the 1.5 turns out range. Jon

Hmmmmmmmmm. Jesus destroyed by an "act of God"....now I'm worried...... Jon

After adjusting the mixture screw, if it's still rough I'd look into: water in fuel or stale fuel. We often store the bikes with a partial full fuel tank which presents two problems, a larger surface area of fuel to allow "boiling off" or evaporation of the high-end aromatics that aid starting and low-speed running and, a volume of air that presents condensation of water. This can be cumulative and the results build on themselves to eventually cause symptoms. I like to store my bike in between rides with a full tank. Possible air leak. Usually this involves the manifold/reedcage area and most often is caused by over tightening the manifold (the capscrews only go to about 7-8 ft lbs max) which causes the manifold to bow in between the bolt holes. a still obstructed pilot jet. At .35/.38mm, the pilot jet is extremely small and a piece of grit can easily lodge in it. Most of us use fuel cans for years and dirt can accumulate in the bottom of the container so it's a good idea to add an inline fuel filter. When using compressed air to clean jets or passageways in carbs, always force the air in the opposite direction that the air of fuel flows as the orifices are usually funnel-shaped and this will prevent the particle from staying lodged at the bottom of the "funnel". Jon

Just got my two (one for the son) today. I've found a new favorite shop video to replace my other favorite (the 2009 BF production). Balance of bike sounds and music is nice. I like the satellite map of the loop and sections that start the segments, very informative. Good camera locations at the sections and each rider ID'ed as they start. Excellent! Can't wait for 2011! Good job, John! Jon

Dave, The 3.5 out reccomendation should be a starting point. To correctly set the mixture screw (turning in will lean out the mix) warm the engine and quickly blip the throttle open/close and adjust the screw in/out to get the best response. Each bike and ambient conditions are slightly different. If 3.5 would work with every bike under all conditions, they would set it at the factory and be done with it and this is why the adjustable screw is there. The mixture screw fine-tunes the pilot circuit, which "pilots" the air/fuel ratio from idle circuit to when the needle jet starts to draw fuel. Without it, the engine would tend to die every time the throttle was opened quickly. Jon

In a 12 year old bike, heat cycling will slightly compress the copper washers under the head capscrews unless they are re-torqued now and then (which lessens clamping force), which is why the o-ring is my first guess considering the symptoms you describe. You will probably see indications of exhaust gas leakage but not always. Be sure to grease the o-ring before installation. Pink oil indicates a worn water pump seal (Dexron and coolant=pink). If the seal is worn, on this bike, I'd also replace the water pump shaft also, based on the bike's age, it probably has a groove in it from the seal lips and replacing the shaft and seal as a unit will extend the repair greatly. Another possibility for the pink trans oil is if the overflow tube coming off the radiator cap is squashed or plugged (or the pop-off valve in the cap reacts at a too high temp/pressure), the excess pressure in the cooling system will force coolant past an otherwise good seal. You might want to fix the o-ring first (assuming that's the problem), change the trans oil and check for pink oil again to be sure the seal is another problem to be dealt with. A lot of riders run Dexron ATF in the trans with very good results, change it often and the engine will benefit over time. You'll want a light gear oil in a Trials transmission. 300cc's of 5 weight fork oil in each fully drained leg. If you need a little more damping use Dexron ATF, which is about 7.5 weight and has all the necessary additives and properties (anti-foaming agents, good lubricity etc.) that work as fork oil. Jon

"I have stripped the bike to allow me to de-coke the exhaust system, and whilst doing so I noticed that the inlet manifold on the bike has a spacer between the reed block and the crank casings, I wondered if this was a standard item, or an aftermarket spacer presumably to soften the power?? If anyone has a bike of the same type, can they take a peek and see if they have the same??" The spacer is standard, it: spaces the carb bowl off the engine cases, makes the intake tract slightly longer for smoother bottom end power (and various other things that are barely noticeable). "Also, I am not sure how much engine oil is used in the bike, I have looked up and find conflicting advice between 650 and 750ml, can anyone clarify?? Also, where do you pour the oil in??? do you remove the oil level window / bolt??? Forgive me if I am being stupid, only I can

Actually not too bad to fix. You'll probably need a flywheel puller (from your dealer, they are special to this type of ignition), a new woodruff key and a torque wrench. Take the flywheel off using the puller, take out any of the old key pieces, install new key, put on flywheel and use a little Loctite on the bolt threads. Torque flywheel bolt to 32 ft lbs (42 Nm) and you should be set. This is not an uncommon problem in Trials engines of just about any year or brand. The bolt/nut is torqued at the factory during initial assembly but after a few heat cycles tends to loosen a little (like new spokes). With the large mass flywheels and drivetrain shocks that are normal to Trials, the flywheel will often slip after a while and shear the key. It's always a good idea to check the flywheel fastener on a new bike after a time, and a re-Loctite and re-torque will usually prevent this in the future. Jon