konrad

There's a line for Country on the inquiry form, so it would seem they sell outside the US too. https://www.rebelgears.com/ordercustomsprockets.html

I find it hard to believe 10W40 oil could cause that malady.

Gauss Gauss, brilliant! Wish I had thought of that! PM system says you cannot accept mail. Intentional, or full mailbox?

I had a nice conversation with Clay at Jotagas of America this morning. Unfortunately, Jotagas was killed off by COVID-19 which resulted in the factory's inability to source parts. Although the brand's owner is still enthusiastic, the likelihood of a resurrection is small in Clay's estimation. The Jotagas of America website remains mostly due to inertia.

Yes. Generic controllers are available, but lack some of EM's features. https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/sx-controller-experiments

Maybe, maybe not. EM uses custom siliXcon firmware, and the speed loop routine may have been removed to make space for other code. https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/fw/modules/esc/driver/command/driver_pid_modes

All of EM's siliXcon controllers are password locked, so only torque mode is possible. Back when we first got the 5.7, I experimented with the Kelly controller's "balanced mode" (somehow incorporates both torque and speed modes). I found it most unintuitive compared with ICE trials bikes, so I did not bother to try speed mode. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/5-7-controller

Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

Every brake banjo bolt I've ever seen has been M10. A thread pitch of 1.0mm is more likely for a trials bike, but 1.25mm is possible.

Short answer: probably Tech. The left side has the wire spring, so a lower fluid level tends to compensate and gives a similar air chamber volume as a higher level without a spring. But ultimately, those numbers are just a starting point. The fluid level affects the bottoming behavior. Different riders may require/prefer different settings. It's easier to add oil (using a syringe) than to remove it. More info here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/tech-39mm-forks

Thanks for reporting back! Just FYI, that condition is really hard on the rod bearings.

If you can determine who manufactured the controller, perhaps they would sell you the tool? If the encoder is Hall-effect, there are a limited number of positions at which the rotor can "cog". I would not recommend it, but trial and error is a possibility. If the encoder is sin-cos, then there may be 256 to 4096 possible positions (depending on the resolution of the A/D converter). Obviously not amenable to a trial and error solution. If you have not already removed the encoder, it may be possible to replace just the temperature sensor (thermistor). In which case you would need a known good thermistor to measure its value or cannibalize a complete new encoder to get a thermistor.

Request to new members... Would you mind putting your query into the dedicated sub-forum for the bike in question?

I find this counterintuitive, but if you blip the throttle, the clutch will release better. I've only ever noticed this on trials bikes. If anyone has an explanation or theory, I'd love to hear it. I've also found that dimpling the clutch steel plates has a very positive effect on clutch release. But this is a well-know trick, that I probably first saw on circa 1970s Suzuki OE plates.