konrad

Do you have the variable regen lever option? If so, unplug it as a test.

Not sure what you mean by a "low pulse tone from the battery." There is a large contactor inside the battery that makes an audible clunk every time the battery is switched ON or OFF.

Dry air would be OK as a temporary measure, but moisture in the air will eventually cause corrosion. This thread mentions pressure: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69619-ozo-pro-trials-rear-shocks-a-look-inside/page/2/ Edit: A more complete answer is that it's the combination of oxygen and moisture in the air that will do the damage. I think using a bicycle tire pump would be much better than a shop air compressor that has not been drained immediately beforehand.

Can you cycle through all the maps? Does the motor emit a tone when you change maps? If so, the controller may not be seeing the throttle input. You'll need a multimeter and some skill troubleshooting electrical circuits. Wiring diagram for the EM Race is here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram The Escape will be similar.

The engine needs to be rotating to change gears. To test, you must rotate the flywheel (or rear wheel) by hand while you operate the gear lever.

Just to have a concrete example, the 6905 is a pretty common trials wheel bearing. Here is the cheapest one ($5 CAD) I found advertised in Canada: https://mapleace.com/en-us/products/6905-2rs-61905-2rs-ball-bearing-25x42x9mm-6905-2rs-rubber-sealed lemur, are you saying that's not good enough for a trials wheel? What do you use?

I feel stupid now! Thanks for setting the record straight. The 2005 - 2015 system sounds like the type of pressure regulator I've seen on turbocharged motors.

A friend loaned me an old Honda "Setting Tool" so I could learn about it. Here is a bit from my notes: The computer interface requires an RS-232 port. Newer versions work with a USB port. The ECU interface uses the K-Line protocol, which is primitive automotive standard from the early days of OBD2. The Setting Tool software requires a 32-bit OS. I tried enabling 32-bit apps under Windows 10, but this did not allow the program to run. The actual EFI map is not accessible, only modifications to it. The modification matrix has 8 default throttle positions (0, 5, 10, 25, 50, 60, 70, and 100%) by 12 RPM positions (1000, 1400, 1800, 2200, 3500, 4500, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 10000, and 12000 RPM) for both fueling and ignition timing. Each of the default throttle and RPM positions may also be changed slightly, for example 1400 rpm has a range of 1100 to 1700. You are not permitted to move the value into an adjacent range bin. I was also given a half dozen example modification files. Remember they are not actually maps themselves. This is really nice because they could be applied to any year or displacement Montesa trials bike. The only "incompatibility" seems to be if the file is for a single or dual map throttle body. But that changed in 2007, and all bikes going forward seem to have dual map capability. (Well not really, as Montesa made some bikes homologated for road use that don't allow any reprogramming at all.) Fueling: +/- 30% change in 1% increments. A total of 61 values. Ignition Timing: +4 degrees to -12 degrees change in 1 degree increments. A total of 17 values. You can specify whether changes apply to "mode 1" or "mode 2" (map switch), but the default is both modes. The modification files have an .ep2 extension. They are written in Intel Hex format and are quite compact (~750 bytes). Each file has an area at the end to write comments in ASCII text.

When you replace the OE pump with something different, make sure it's wired such that the pump pushes fuel from the tank into the injector (instead of the other way around). 🙂 The new pump's injection pressure must the same as the OE pump. Officially, the pressure regulators are not adjustable, but it just uses a preloaded spring and may be possible to modify.

All you need to do is loosen the two screws that clamp the throttle to the bars. Rotate the entire throttle assembly to the position you want, and tighten the screws.

Yes. The fuel pump uses a mechanical pressure regulator and runs at a constant pressure. The ECU opens the injector for the appropriate amount of time to deliver the required fuel. I've written extensively about the OSSA EFI system here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home There are tons of details scattered across the website, but I've never described the basic operating principles of EFI. Perhaps I should?

Are you thinking the ECU does something more than just turn the pump on and off? I suppose the ECU could PWM the pump to vary the flow, but I have never heard of that being done.

I'll preface these remarks by stating that I have never touched a Beta 4T carb. But I do have some experience tuning constant velocity (CV) carbs. The thing about CV carbs is that no matter what rate the rider opens the butterfly throttle, the vacuum-operated slide only opens in response to engine demand. This is great because the manufacturer can fit a large throttle bore, and the bike is still easily driveable by a ham-fisted rider. If you make the spring that controls the diaphragm weaker, the throttle connection will become more direct. Look at the design equations for springs to see the variables you have to work with. The simplest solution is just to replicate the standard spring with a greater number of turns (but you have to be careful about coil bind so the slide can still open fully). Alternatively, you can wind the spring from a thinner diameter wire. I have bought spring steel wire from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spring-wire/steel-1~/ but I expect there are other fine sources.

The most likely cause of the lever not returning is an over-tightened lever pivot bolt. Maybe the tip-over exacerbated that? Or dirt is causing binding? Your disassembly introduced a lot of air into the system. I would try to "gravity bleed" it initially. Open the caliper bleed valve (put a hose onto the nipple and direct the fluid into a container so as not to make a mess) and wait. Keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder with the cover off. Refill as needed, before it goes empty. When you think all the air is out, try bleeding using your normal technique.

Yes. The potentiometer shown on my website is called a trimmer, or trim pot. It requites ~25 turns to go from one extreme to the other. Also, you must measure the voltage when the trim pot is connect to the controller (because its input impedance will affect the reading).