konrad

How old is the battery? How many charge cycles? Conduct your experiment again while measuring voltage across the battery. If the battery voltage drops precipitously just as the wheel touches the ground, the battery is probably bad. You will have to be quick to observe the drop because the controller will be likely to cut the power due to an "under voltage" condition (and the battery voltage will bounce back immediately).

Congratulations on getting a 'scope. That's what the waveforms should look like. The siliXcon controller input circuit shows a pull-up resistor to +5VDC: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/ax1/IO/#sin-cos-sensor-connection I don't think general-purpose data logging would be practical. Notice that your 'scope is sampling at 100kS/s. You could sample slower than that and still make out waveshapes, but the sample rate needs to scale proportional to rpm. Riding speed and duration will result in a massive amount of data. Even if you could store it, you would have to sort through it visually. Try heating the sensor with something like a hair dryer while testing. But honestly, I doubt that will reveal anything. I think the most likely problem is an intermittent connection somewhere. But I can't think of a failure mode that would produce your symptoms. But EM keeps changing the firmware, and all I really know is my 2021. P.S. Try running the bike on a stand and monitor the sin/cos signals at normal running (and varying) RPMs. When I do things like that at high speed, I like to strap the bike to my trailer so it can't get away! P.P.S. Another thing I have done to promote safer stationary testing is to remove the front sprocket.

Another thought... if you are out of oversizes in TY175 pistons, it may be possible to find a larger piston from a different motor. Oftentimes there is something close that can be modified to fit. But one non-negotiable is the rings. They must be for an iron bore, not Nikasil.

Possible, yes. Economical, probably not. Neither Vintco nor L.A. Sleeve shows anything for the TY175. https://www.vintco.com/shop/part/Cylinder-Sleeves?page=1 https://www.lasleeve.com/offroad-mx/sleeve L.A. Sleeve does say not everything they have is online, so it's worth a contacting them. It would be possible to buy a "blank" sleeve and cut the proper ports: https://www.lasleeve.com/tech/all-purpose-sleeves Those are the players I'm aware of, but there may be others. Have you tried searching in your location?

I just looked at the 2022 switchgear (P/N TL02R-60407-00-00) in case it was different from my 2021. The 2022 also has a single button to scroll through the maps. So transitioning directly from Blue to Green is not possible via the normal map-change firmware sequence. That makes it seem like a controller error condition triggering the change. The siliXcon controller can be configured to run "sensorless", and may be doing that as a fallback for a glitchy position encoder. In which case, it may be changing to the softest map as well. What happens if you unplug the encoder and attempt to ride the bike? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

That's are excellent observation that I know would be true. When I used to ride motorcycles on frozen lakes, a set of handlebar mittens was mandatory. These were permanently attached to the handlebars, and covered all the controls (and you still wore riding gloves). I think they were called Hippo Hands, but their current design is really different from what I remember. Maybe the ones for MTBs would be most appropriate?

To me, the best thing about the solid separator/electrolyte is that it brings a significant safety improvement. It's much less prone to thermal runaway, and therefore reduces the risk of fire.

Well, at least they put the kickstarter on the "normal" side. Wonder if that is going to annoy long-time Beta purists? But the cylinder reeds are a compromise so they could put the e-start motor where it is.

Not sure if there is a misunderstanding here or not. Just to be clear, I was suggesting that you search by rim size (with other parameters as appropriate), and not just limit your search to "TY80 rims".

I had no idea what the wheel sizes are for a TY80, but based on the eBay links above they appear to be: 16 x 1.40 15 x 1.75 Have you tried searching "16 x 1.40 steel rim"? There are results in the US. Seems likely the Chinese even make them. Edit: You would need the correct number of holes as well.

Technically interesting, but something I would not want to see in widespread use!

I have an opinion, but you're not going to like it. ONE OF THE BEST FEATURES OF ELECTRICS IS THAT THEY ARE QUIET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! See, all that hollering is annoying. Yes, they are even quieter.

I'm not saying your coil is good, but oil won't cause it to short out. Lots of large transformers are cooled by being immersed in oil. Everything is in parallel with the source coil.

Which bearing did you decide was the possible issue?

The clicking sound is not normal. But it seems the repetition rate is too slow to be something in the gearbox. I'd look for something external like Zippy's problem first. Inspecting the drain oil is a good idea, but knowing the true history of the bike is more valuable. Did the prior owner sell because there was debris in the drain oil? Is there a chipped tooth somewhere? Out of curiosity, I looked for gearbox parts. It appears KTM is good about making GG parts available. You can buy individual gears and even a complete transmission assembly (MT40000CT-CSV-1) for $840 USD. https://trialssuperstore.com/products/gasgas-transmission-complete-19