konrad

There's a line for Country on the inquiry form, so it would seem they sell outside the US too. https://www.rebelgears.com/ordercustomsprockets.html

I find it hard to believe 10W40 oil could cause that malady.

Gauss Gauss, brilliant! Wish I had thought of that! PM system says you cannot accept mail. Intentional, or full mailbox?

I had a nice conversation with Clay at Jotagas of America this morning. Unfortunately, Jotagas was killed off by COVID-19 which resulted in the factory's inability to source parts. Although the brand's owner is still enthusiastic, the likelihood of a resurrection is small in Clay's estimation. The Jotagas of America website remains mostly due to inertia.

Yes. Generic controllers are available, but lack some of EM's features. https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/sx-controller-experiments

Maybe, maybe not. EM uses custom siliXcon firmware, and the speed loop routine may have been removed to make space for other code. https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/fw/modules/esc/driver/command/driver_pid_modes

All of EM's siliXcon controllers are password locked, so only torque mode is possible. Back when we first got the 5.7, I experimented with the Kelly controller's "balanced mode" (somehow incorporates both torque and speed modes). I found it most unintuitive compared with ICE trials bikes, so I did not bother to try speed mode. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/5-7-controller

Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

Every brake banjo bolt I've ever seen has been M10. A thread pitch of 1.0mm is more likely for a trials bike, but 1.25mm is possible.

Short answer: probably Tech. The left side has the wire spring, so a lower fluid level tends to compensate and gives a similar air chamber volume as a higher level without a spring. But ultimately, those numbers are just a starting point. The fluid level affects the bottoming behavior. Different riders may require/prefer different settings. It's easier to add oil (using a syringe) than to remove it. More info here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/tech-39mm-forks

Thanks for reporting back! Just FYI, that condition is really hard on the rod bearings.

If you can determine who manufactured the controller, perhaps they would sell you the tool? If the encoder is Hall-effect, there are a limited number of positions at which the rotor can "cog". I would not recommend it, but trial and error is a possibility. If the encoder is sin-cos, then there may be 256 to 4096 possible positions (depending on the resolution of the A/D converter). Obviously not amenable to a trial and error solution. If you have not already removed the encoder, it may be possible to replace just the temperature sensor (thermistor). In which case you would need a known good thermistor to measure its value or cannibalize a complete new encoder to get a thermistor.

Request to new members... Would you mind putting your query into the dedicated sub-forum for the bike in question?

I find this counterintuitive, but if you blip the throttle, the clutch will release better. I've only ever noticed this on trials bikes. If anyone has an explanation or theory, I'd love to hear it. I've also found that dimpling the clutch steel plates has a very positive effect on clutch release. But this is a well-know trick, that I probably first saw on circa 1970s Suzuki OE plates.

May I ask where you got that design? Was it done by an A.I. chatbot?

Yes, but I would advise caution. Pin 22 is driven by a component (Rohm SP8K22 dual N-channel MOSFET) known to have failed on at least 3 Explorers. This renders the ECU useless. I don't know of any trials model to which this has happened. I assume there is something about the Explorer wiring harness/easy start that's causing the failure, but I don't have one to investigate.

From my notes... There is a symbol on the initial 2011 wiring diagram called "Testigo Averia". That translates as “Fault Witness”. I called it the CEL (Check Engine Light) in my notebook. Another name is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp). Looks like OSSA made it part of an instrument panel in the 2014 wiring diagram. Reverse engineered it a bit. It sources 5 volts at only 5 mA, so not too useful to drive a lamp. Even an LED is pretty dim. But, you could easily read it with a voltmeter. If your bike does not start, see if ECU pin 22 is at 5 volts (with the bike powered by a battery). This would indicate the ECU thinks there is a problem, versus the bike just being recalcitrant. Wiring diagrams are here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/wiring-diagrams

The write-ups are quite technical, but maybe some here will be interested. This link is the actual retrofit process: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/sx-controller-retrofit This link describes some preliminary work to familiarize myself with the SX controller: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/sx-controller-experiments

The trials model definitely had superior suspension to the Explorer. But I think going forward, the Explorer will be a very desirable bike. I expect some trials models will get sacrificed to keep Explorers running. I'd suggest buying a ratty trials model to use as a donor.

Here's my analysis of that dyno comparison: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/what-makes-a-good-trials-motor/zero-loss-gearbox-anlaysis

Beta has a 6-speed box. I'll let you do the calculations.

I think you want something with a 6-speed. Here are overall ratios for two "obsolete" bikes. OSSA TRi 36.93, 29.99, 24.78, 20.73, 14.2, 8.45 Aprilia Climber 37.81, 29.65, 21.5, 15.45, 12.18, 8.45 Plus, one current bike (but it uses GG's 4/6 system and shifting will be more clunky than a true 6-speed). GagGas Pro (all) 31.77, 27.27, 23.19, 19.91, 11.93, 8.7 Here's the Montesa 4RT for reference 36.36, 30.97, 25.97, 16.53, 10.58

Fully extended. The air trapped inside acts as a spring. Although the pressure would probably eventually equalize itself either way. Longer travel forks often have bleed-screws to release excess air pressure when the forks are fully extended.

This is a topic near and dear to me. I keep spreadsheets with gear ratios for a variety of bikes. Modern trials bikes will all have the same problem, a wide gap between the "section" ratios and the "loop" ratios. The most even spacing I've measured among trials bikes was my old TXT321. Never had that gearbox apart, but counted motor revs per wheel rev as: 39.25, 33.75, 26.50, 20.75, 13.25, 9.00. Typically, a 6-speed box will offer a slight improvement over your Sherco's 5-speed. FWIW, I've discovered that single-speed electric trials bikes work really well as a technical trail bike.