konrad

If you weld it, the bore will have to be re-machined. That's a reasonable place for JB Weld, but after the bearing is installed. Don't press the bearing in, heat the case and cool the bearing so it is a clearance fit and drops in. I've written a bit about bearing fits and CTE which may be helpful: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/gearbox/locker-shaft#h.3t5em1loxmz9 EDIT: looking at the photo again, Beta thinned the casting section where it is cracked. This would be stupid to do if not necessary. So, another part must be in close proximity. This complicates things.

Are you using a Dellorto? If so, they have replaceable starter jets. When I did not want to wait for jets to arrive for my my old TXT321, I just enlarged its original #60 starter jet hole from 0.023” to 0.028” (making it approximately a #70). Much easier to start! Figured I had nothing to lose, as I could just solder up the hole and re-drill to original size if it made things worse. The jet number is the approximate diameter in millimeters, so a #60 would be about 0.60mm in diameter. When I drill a jet, I obliterate the original markings.

That tone is being produced by the motor. It's indicating an error occurred while the controller was performing its "pre-flight" diagnostics (which take about 2 seconds to complete). One example of such an error would be the throttle being open during the diagnostic tests.

I have never seen a video uploaded directly to Trials Central. Pretty sure you must use an intermediary server (like YouTube) and then post a link. Try unplugging the connector for the Regen button. It will be labeled something like "FRB" for fixed regen braking.

Do you have the variable regen lever option? If so, unplug it as a test.

Not sure what you mean by a "low pulse tone from the battery." There is a large contactor inside the battery that makes an audible clunk every time the battery is switched ON or OFF.

Dry air would be OK as a temporary measure, but moisture in the air will eventually cause corrosion. This thread mentions pressure: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69619-ozo-pro-trials-rear-shocks-a-look-inside/page/2/ Edit: A more complete answer is that it's the combination of oxygen and moisture in the air that will do the damage. I think using a bicycle tire pump would be much better than a shop air compressor that has not been drained immediately beforehand.

Can you cycle through all the maps? Does the motor emit a tone when you change maps? If so, the controller may not be seeing the throttle input. You'll need a multimeter and some skill troubleshooting electrical circuits. Wiring diagram for the EM Race is here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram The Escape will be similar.

The engine needs to be rotating to change gears. To test, you must rotate the flywheel (or rear wheel) by hand while you operate the gear lever.

Just to have a concrete example, the 6905 is a pretty common trials wheel bearing. Here is the cheapest one ($5 CAD) I found advertised in Canada: https://mapleace.com/en-us/products/6905-2rs-61905-2rs-ball-bearing-25x42x9mm-6905-2rs-rubber-sealed lemur, are you saying that's not good enough for a trials wheel? What do you use?

I feel stupid now! Thanks for setting the record straight. The 2005 - 2015 system sounds like the type of pressure regulator I've seen on turbocharged motors.

A friend loaned me an old Honda "Setting Tool" so I could learn about it. Here is a bit from my notes: The computer interface requires an RS-232 port. Newer versions work with a USB port. The ECU interface uses the K-Line protocol, which is primitive automotive standard from the early days of OBD2. The Setting Tool software requires a 32-bit OS. I tried enabling 32-bit apps under Windows 10, but this did not allow the program to run. The actual EFI map is not accessible, only modifications to it. The modification matrix has 8 default throttle positions (0, 5, 10, 25, 50, 60, 70, and 100%) by 12 RPM positions (1000, 1400, 1800, 2200, 3500, 4500, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 10000, and 12000 RPM) for both fueling and ignition timing. Each of the default throttle and RPM positions may also be changed slightly, for example 1400 rpm has a range of 1100 to 1700. You are not permitted to move the value into an adjacent range bin. I was also given a half dozen example modification files. Remember they are not actually maps themselves. This is really nice because they could be applied to any year or displacement Montesa trials bike. The only "incompatibility" seems to be if the file is for a single or dual map throttle body. But that changed in 2007, and all bikes going forward seem to have dual map capability. (Well not really, as Montesa made some bikes homologated for road use that don't allow any reprogramming at all.) Fueling: +/- 30% change in 1% increments. A total of 61 values. Ignition Timing: +4 degrees to -12 degrees change in 1 degree increments. A total of 17 values. You can specify whether changes apply to "mode 1" or "mode 2" (map switch), but the default is both modes. The modification files have an .ep2 extension. They are written in Intel Hex format and are quite compact (~750 bytes). Each file has an area at the end to write comments in ASCII text.

When you replace the OE pump with something different, make sure it's wired such that the pump pushes fuel from the tank into the injector (instead of the other way around). 🙂 The new pump's injection pressure must the same as the OE pump. Officially, the pressure regulators are not adjustable, but it just uses a preloaded spring and may be possible to modify.

All you need to do is loosen the two screws that clamp the throttle to the bars. Rotate the entire throttle assembly to the position you want, and tighten the screws.

Yes. The fuel pump uses a mechanical pressure regulator and runs at a constant pressure. The ECU opens the injector for the appropriate amount of time to deliver the required fuel. I've written extensively about the OSSA EFI system here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home There are tons of details scattered across the website, but I've never described the basic operating principles of EFI. Perhaps I should?

Are you thinking the ECU does something more than just turn the pump on and off? I suppose the ECU could PWM the pump to vary the flow, but I have never heard of that being done.

I'll preface these remarks by stating that I have never touched a Beta 4T carb. But I do have some experience tuning constant velocity (CV) carbs. The thing about CV carbs is that no matter what rate the rider opens the butterfly throttle, the vacuum-operated slide only opens in response to engine demand. This is great because the manufacturer can fit a large throttle bore, and the bike is still easily driveable by a ham-fisted rider. If you make the spring that controls the diaphragm weaker, the throttle connection will become more direct. Look at the design equations for springs to see the variables you have to work with. The simplest solution is just to replicate the standard spring with a greater number of turns (but you have to be careful about coil bind so the slide can still open fully). Alternatively, you can wind the spring from a thinner diameter wire. I have bought spring steel wire from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spring-wire/steel-1~/ but I expect there are other fine sources.

The most likely cause of the lever not returning is an over-tightened lever pivot bolt. Maybe the tip-over exacerbated that? Or dirt is causing binding? Your disassembly introduced a lot of air into the system. I would try to "gravity bleed" it initially. Open the caliper bleed valve (put a hose onto the nipple and direct the fluid into a container so as not to make a mess) and wait. Keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder with the cover off. Refill as needed, before it goes empty. When you think all the air is out, try bleeding using your normal technique.

Yes. The potentiometer shown on my website is called a trimmer, or trim pot. It requites ~25 turns to go from one extreme to the other. Also, you must measure the voltage when the trim pot is connect to the controller (because its input impedance will affect the reading).

The PRB does not emit 0 volts when it's off (more like 0.6V, from memory). That, plus the fact that it's very difficult for your finger to apply only a tiny amount of PRB, probably gave you the wrong impression. The threshold for the PRB to start affecting the throttle does not occur until about 1.1 volts. (At least that's the behavior of the firmware in my 2021 controller. Yours may be different.) P.S. That T2 connector is where I guessed the throttle could be plug-in to obtain school maps.

I don't think it's in anyone's best interests for me to provide more information than what's already on my website. It assumes a basic knowledge of electronics that is a prerequisite for making modifications to the bike. But I really want to discourage anyone from using a DC/DC converter in that manner! A DC/DC converter could potentially source sufficient voltage/current to damage the controller if it's improperly wired, improperly adjusted or just plain fails. Stick with the potentiometer shown an the end of the Regen Experiments page: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments#h.7lz2uhjj7x3c The 2023 bike clearly has some wiring differences to my 2021 model that you will have to determine for yourself.

Interesting problem. The first search result for the GG P/N says it ships in 2-5 business days: https://www.ocpoemparts.com/oemparts/p/gasgas/bt20220gg-cka-1/cartridge I find it difficult to imagine a guy who's done 10k forks over-tightened it. How much longer did you make the preload spacer? But even if the spring went into coilbind, I can't see that breaking the damper rod. Can you post a high-resolution photo of the break?

Your issues with the clutch may not be completely of your making. Clutch fiber plates take some time to break in. You can speed the process (and give the clutch a longer life) by perfectly aligning the plates: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/clutch#h.twzu1hiimf5e You could also experiment with different clutch fluids. Finally, my wife tried one of these levers on her Dragonfly: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/trialsolutions-ergo-lever.html It worked so well, I bought one for my EM.

My understanding is that EM allows 2023 models to be upgraded to 2024 specs which would also give you EM Connect. But you must buy a lot of hardware: TCU, display, switchgear. Probably more cost-effective just to trade up to a newer bike. Regarding the school mode on later models. I have the idea there may be two different places to plug the throttle into the wiring harness -- one for standard mode and one for school mode. But that is speculation because I don't have a bike to examine. Regardless, it would be possible to make the throttle less responsive by inserting a resistor in series with the 5-volt reference to the throttle. (In fact, that's how EM implemented the different power modes on their original 5.7.) For example, let's say the controller expects to see a command signal of 4.8 volts as WOT. When the controller sees a throttle signal of 2.4 volts, it will produce one-half of its maximum torque (for that map). If instead, you make WOT produce only 2.4 volts, the torque at any throttle opening will be correspondingly reduced. Research the theory of voltage dividers to understand this.

Well, that is not at all what I expected. I had assumed a ball bearing with an inner race. That is quite possibly a special bearing manufactured for Fantic. I'd suggest taking everything to a local bearing supply company and having a chat with a specialist.