konrad

10mm thread with an O-ring. https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/sensors#h.pc3f12lv2znb

For US dirt riders of a certain age, Malcolm truly was a legend. A friend had the good fortune to encounter Malcolm in the Mexican Baja, and they rode together for a while. The AMA magazine published excepts from his autobiography. Malcolm's early life was fascinating too. Malcolm's father lived to be 99, and conceived Malcolm when he was 80! https://www.malcolmsmith.com/malcolmstory

The short answer is, no. I'm sure each map has an ignition curve tailored to match the fueling/performance. It's also likely a 3D curve, as there is TPS data available. I plan to do more reverse-engineering of the ECU this winter, so maybe can steer you in the right direction after that.

That is a worthwhile endeavor! Are you thinking of something like a Microsquirt? As far as I know, the entire Megasquirt product line only provides a conventional (inductive) ignition, which is not ideal for a 2-stroke. But certainly better than nothing. I imagine you could have a separate CDI triggered by the Microsquirt, but that would mean having another box. Although on an Explorer, at least there may be room for it under the seat.

I found this: https://www.ohtokc.com/products/electronic-ignition-yamaha-ty250-hit Did not see any written installation instructions on that website.

I've used that technique many times with conventional (wire spring) clutches. But I would not recommend it with the OSSA for two reasons. 1. There are 18 small, slippery screws that can easily be dropped. 2. A thrust washer at the end of the kick-start shaft that is likely to fall off when reinstalling the clutch cover with the bike is in that orientation. In fact, I lean the bike in the opposite direction to ensure the washer stays put. To the OP, the control ring number you select depends mostly on the thickness of your clutch pack. https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/clutch-control-ring https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/clutch

Can you post a link to the Malaysia OHT bikes CDI? I can't find it with a search.

Seems like you have done everything correctly. Since you made the timing mark, are you sure it is BTDC and not ATDC? As a general comment, digital CDIs need their pickup location well in advance of the firing point to allow time for computation. It takes significantly higher voltage to fire the plug under compression than in open air. Try reducing the plug gap to half what it is now. I would not use the bike that way, just as a diagnostic test. If still no success, I would refit the OE ignition to verify the bike runs.

Try a GM dealer. GM Part # 11588754 M10 x 1.5 x 105 Multi-Purpose Bolt. Less than a dollar, US.

Chris Pearson finished 33rd in the 2024 Scott Trial on a FACTOR-e! 82 brutal miles in under 7 hours. Link to a very well produced 10-minute video by Inch Perfect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuZ141hE8W4

Just FYI, anything after the item number is just a means of tracking how the link was generated. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116330877076

Great to know! Titanium Joe Inc. 1407 John Counter Blvd. unit 90-B Kingston ON, K7K-6A9 613-545-0563 Kingston 905-556-0289 Canada 315-285-4414 USA sales@titaniumjoe.com

Worthwhile project! To get some idea of titanium's cost, here is a company that sells titanium fasteners: https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/?page=3

From a press release on EM's website, "YAMAHA MOTOR Invests in French Company ELECTRIC MOTION SAS" No real details. Read it here: https://em-motorcycles.com/media-file/568/news-release-eng.pdf

That's fabulous! Thank you! Only recently did I figure out that 4th gear is really 1.878:1, rather than the 2.112:1 that has been perpetuated in the documentation from the introduction of the Pro model until at least 2023. That actually makes 4th gear useful, as I suppose anyone who owned the bike understood. All these years I have been disrespecting Xiu because no technical person ever proofread the manual. I have an unsubstantiated feeling that the design is being used in EM's FACTOR-e now that GG's patent has expired.

Pictures, please! I would love the see the actual gearsets from their "Four / Six system". The patent drawings are not great.

Chris, that is a fabulous summary! Thanks for doing the work. I just have one question, what is Konrad's W3? My missus just acquired a Dragonfly -- chosen almost entirely on the basis of weight. There is an immense amount to learn about that bike, and I will be adding to my website in the coming weeks.

Trials motors generally run hotter than other competition 2Ts to improve fuel vaporization and throttle response while sacrificing some loss of charge density. 5 to 10 degrees C of hysteresis is fairly typical.

Not advisable. Although as a newbie, you might be able to get away with it for a while assuming you don't riding aggressively. Modern rear trials tires use a very low inflation pressure and no rim lock. This is just begging to shear the valve stem off a tube. It's not uncommon for the rear to slowly lose pressure. If you only ride once a week, check the pressure prior to riding. A rear trials tire can be run down to nearly zero pressure, but you risk denting the rim.

The nice thing about lemur's suggested gauge is that I expect it would be very tolerant of over-pressure.

https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments#h.7lz2uhjj7x3c

https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/fuel-injector/fuel-injection-pressure Suggest you download all the factory documentation here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/factory-documentation Try searching for the barb by part number.

My experience has been that digital pressure gauges that read to 100 psi or so are very inaccurate at trials pressures. Maybe you can find one that claims to be accurate, but I doubt it will be as cost effective as buying another Apico. On the plus side, you probably won't make the same mistake again.

I have a little experience with this. As you know, replacing the guides is not typically a DIY job. After installation, the ID needs to be reamed to size and the seats re-cut. The US company Kibblewhite manufactures aftermarket valve guides (and other head components as well). See: https://www.kpmi.us/ The potential problem I see with gas-flowing the ports is that the technique is generally used to improve WOT flow. Unless the person doing the work has experience specifically with trials, the results may actually make the performance worse.

Search "jwpf extension cable." AliExpress would seem the most likely source for a single cable. Are you sure the TKO function can be switched in real-time? Maybe EM put the switch where it is because the controller only senses its state at boot-up or when the mode is changed? I don't know. But yeah, it does seem like a horrible place for the switch itself.