konrad

Beta has a 6-speed box. I'll let you do the calculations.

I think you want something with a 6-speed. Here are overall ratios for two "obsolete" bikes. OSSA TRi 36.93, 29.99, 24.78, 20.73, 14.2, 8.45 Aprilia Climber 37.81, 29.65, 21.5, 15.45, 12.18, 8.45 Plus, one current bike (but it uses GG's 4/6 system and shifting will be more clunky than a true 6-speed). GagGas Pro (all) 31.77, 27.27, 23.19, 19.91, 11.93, 8.7 Here's the Montesa 4RT for reference 36.36, 30.97, 25.97, 16.53, 10.58

Fully extended. The air trapped inside acts as a spring. Although the pressure would probably eventually equalize itself either way. Longer travel forks often have bleed-screws to release excess air pressure when the forks are fully extended.

This is a topic near and dear to me. I keep spreadsheets with gear ratios for a variety of bikes. Modern trials bikes will all have the same problem, a wide gap between the "section" ratios and the "loop" ratios. The most even spacing I've measured among trials bikes was my old TXT321. Never had that gearbox apart, but counted motor revs per wheel rev as: 39.25, 33.75, 26.50, 20.75, 13.25, 9.00. Typically, a 6-speed box will offer a slight improvement over your Sherco's 5-speed. FWIW, I've discovered that single-speed electric trials bikes work really well as a technical trail bike.

Fill and drain bolts are both M12 x 1.5

Clearly, someone before you has had it apart. Is the top end getting sufficient oil? IIRC, there is an oil pressure check bolt in the head. There's no oil filter but, there is an oil screen that can be cleaned if you remove the clutch cover.

TT-R125 manuals are available online. Valve clearance (cold) IN: 0.08 ~ 0.12 mm (0.0031 ~ 0.0047 in) EX: 0.10 ~ 0.14 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0055 in) Check the cam chain tensioner too.

Regarding ticking, have you checked the valve clearance? Regarding low-rpm hesitation...

I'd strongly suggest borrowing a bike to see if you even enjoy the sport. You could easily spend far more time tinkering than riding. Which is fine if that's what you want, just understand what you are getting yourself into. You'll need well-developed mechanical skills from some other endeavor.

It's just an old Aprilia model name. Here's a pic of one: https://www.james-pratt.com/2023/01/working-on-my-very-rare-aprilia-280-climber-trials-motorcycle/

I have always assumed there was a sponsorship deal. A friend calls that oil "Elf Tears".

From my maintenance log, both oils every 15 - 20 hours. Filter every other oil change. I'd say it depends a lot on conditions of use. Sending a drain oil sample for analysis can be enlightening. Don't wait 40 hours to check the level.

If you weld it, the bore will have to be re-machined. That's a reasonable place for JB Weld, but after the bearing is installed. Don't press the bearing in, heat the case and cool the bearing so it is a clearance fit and drops in. I've written a bit about bearing fits and CTE which may be helpful: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/gearbox/locker-shaft#h.3t5em1loxmz9 EDIT: looking at the photo again, Beta thinned the casting section where it is cracked. This would be stupid to do if not necessary. So, another part must be in close proximity. This complicates things.

Are you using a Dellorto? If so, they have replaceable starter jets. When I did not want to wait for jets to arrive for my my old TXT321, I just enlarged its original #60 starter jet hole from 0.023” to 0.028” (making it approximately a #70). Much easier to start! Figured I had nothing to lose, as I could just solder up the hole and re-drill to original size if it made things worse. The jet number is the approximate diameter in millimeters, so a #60 would be about 0.60mm in diameter. When I drill a jet, I obliterate the original markings.

That tone is being produced by the motor. It's indicating an error occurred while the controller was performing its "pre-flight" diagnostics (which take about 2 seconds to complete). One example of such an error would be the throttle being open during the diagnostic tests.

I have never seen a video uploaded directly to Trials Central. Pretty sure you must use an intermediary server (like YouTube) and then post a link. Try unplugging the connector for the Regen button. It will be labeled something like "FRB" for fixed regen braking.

Do you have the variable regen lever option? If so, unplug it as a test.

Not sure what you mean by a "low pulse tone from the battery." There is a large contactor inside the battery that makes an audible clunk every time the battery is switched ON or OFF.

Dry air would be OK as a temporary measure, but moisture in the air will eventually cause corrosion. This thread mentions pressure: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69619-ozo-pro-trials-rear-shocks-a-look-inside/page/2/ Edit: A more complete answer is that it's the combination of oxygen and moisture in the air that will do the damage. I think using a bicycle tire pump would be much better than a shop air compressor that has not been drained immediately beforehand.

Can you cycle through all the maps? Does the motor emit a tone when you change maps? If so, the controller may not be seeing the throttle input. You'll need a multimeter and some skill troubleshooting electrical circuits. Wiring diagram for the EM Race is here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram The Escape will be similar.

The engine needs to be rotating to change gears. To test, you must rotate the flywheel (or rear wheel) by hand while you operate the gear lever.

Just to have a concrete example, the 6905 is a pretty common trials wheel bearing. Here is the cheapest one ($5 CAD) I found advertised in Canada: https://mapleace.com/en-us/products/6905-2rs-61905-2rs-ball-bearing-25x42x9mm-6905-2rs-rubber-sealed lemur, are you saying that's not good enough for a trials wheel? What do you use?

I feel stupid now! Thanks for setting the record straight. The 2005 - 2015 system sounds like the type of pressure regulator I've seen on turbocharged motors.

A friend loaned me an old Honda "Setting Tool" so I could learn about it. Here is a bit from my notes: The computer interface requires an RS-232 port. Newer versions work with a USB port. The ECU interface uses the K-Line protocol, which is primitive automotive standard from the early days of OBD2. The Setting Tool software requires a 32-bit OS. I tried enabling 32-bit apps under Windows 10, but this did not allow the program to run. The actual EFI map is not accessible, only modifications to it. The modification matrix has 8 default throttle positions (0, 5, 10, 25, 50, 60, 70, and 100%) by 12 RPM positions (1000, 1400, 1800, 2200, 3500, 4500, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 10000, and 12000 RPM) for both fueling and ignition timing. Each of the default throttle and RPM positions may also be changed slightly, for example 1400 rpm has a range of 1100 to 1700. You are not permitted to move the value into an adjacent range bin. I was also given a half dozen example modification files. Remember they are not actually maps themselves. This is really nice because they could be applied to any year or displacement Montesa trials bike. The only "incompatibility" seems to be if the file is for a single or dual map throttle body. But that changed in 2007, and all bikes going forward seem to have dual map capability. (Well not really, as Montesa made some bikes homologated for road use that don't allow any reprogramming at all.) Fueling: +/- 30% change in 1% increments. A total of 61 values. Ignition Timing: +4 degrees to -12 degrees change in 1 degree increments. A total of 17 values. You can specify whether changes apply to "mode 1" or "mode 2" (map switch), but the default is both modes. The modification files have an .ep2 extension. They are written in Intel Hex format and are quite compact (~750 bytes). Each file has an area at the end to write comments in ASCII text.

When you replace the OE pump with something different, make sure it's wired such that the pump pushes fuel from the tank into the injector (instead of the other way around). 🙂 The new pump's injection pressure must the same as the OE pump. Officially, the pressure regulators are not adjustable, but it just uses a preloaded spring and may be possible to modify.