konrad

Based one the other posts, I may have to retract my idea that you buy bushing (bushes. sleeves, whatever) from an industrial supplier. The wall thickness for the ID you are after is typically 1.5mm to 2mm. Your photo makes it look like you require needle bearings. What came out when you disassembled it?

Buy the correct bushing from an industrial supply company. In the US, I like American Sleeve Bearing. Not sure this is exactly what you need, but should be close: https://asbbearings.com/pages/steel-backed-ptfe-lined-metric-sleeves Due diligence is up to you.

The thing with the Japanese OEMs is that they sell rings you can just install without any attention. Wossner has chosen a more performance-oriented route.

Unless you are pinning the throttle and dumping the clutch, trials is one of the least demanding of engine applications. Maybe equivalent a lawn mower. The greater the possible temperature difference between the piston crown and the cylinder, the greater the ring end gap should be. A bigger gap is safer than a smaller gap. But a bigger gap will lose more combustion pressure / performance. The naturally aspirated spec should be fine. If you are a worrier, go with the naturally aspirated, racing spec. As with any engine, always let it come up to operating temperature before going wild with the throttle. The correct piston to cylinder clearance is equally important. Break it in according to Wossner's instructions.

Have you tried Wossner for a piston?

Yes, the FRB is just a special case of the PRBR and would have the same battery-charging problem. Personally, I feel having the same control methodology across all my motorcycles is important. Otherwise, it's too easy to do the wrong thing in an emergency.

The problem with relying solely on regeneration for braking is that the battery's state of charge influences how much regeneration can be performed. You can't put any energy into a fully-charged battery. Theoretically, it would be possible to use energy to actively decelerate the bike when the battery is in a high state of charge. But that's not really the point of regenerative braking. Have you looked at Clake for a solution to your disability? https://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/ This might be a less expensive option if it would fit with the existing clutch master cylinder: https://www.clake.com.au/slr/

Thanks! Your comments make complete sense, and I altered my description to reflect your comments. Basically, Send affects the controller's RAM. Whereas Save writes those changes to its flash memory.

I added some content on EM Connect settings here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/controller/em-connect#h.twdhui88af1z Because I don't have a bike with EM Connect, it's all from a theoretical perspective. I'd appreciate any real-world feedback on my descriptions.

What a mess! I don't envy that job at all. When reinstalling the magnets you must alternate North and South poles around the perimeter like this: N-S-N-S. You can check it with a compass. I don't think it matters if an N or an S goes by the keyway. But to be safe, maybe teamferret could check his?

Android or iOS?

I had not heard of nylon coating. This link gives a good comparison: https://latem.com/blog/choosing-a-coating-nylon-coating-vs-polyester-coating What is normally termed powder coating (polyester) is thermosetting, whereas nylon is thermoplastic. From my own experience, power coating has been the toughest of paints -- even more so than a 2-part epoxy. I have no DIY experience with power coating, but "coming off in sheets" sounds like inadequate surface prep. My vendor always starts with grit-blasting. I was also advised that only a few powder-coated colors are actually tough. I've only needed black, but special colors require a clear coating on top.

Rear brake levers are far from universal. Several criteria must be met. At a minimum: Diameter of pivot. Distance between pivot center-line to the actuation rod and pedal tip (determines leverage ratio). The EM has a "stop screw" to keep the pedal from flopping up and down. I'd recommend comparing your lever to photos of aftermarket replacements. The most likely substitution will be for Sherco/Scorpa circa 2020. If you find something that works, let me know and I'll add it to my website.

I'd be curious as to what "darn close" actually measures? I assume it's the distance I showed measuring via pin gauges here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/clutch-control-ring#h.t2nxiwmfefbq Somewhat related, I've considered making a test fixture that would restrain the clutch slave piston from moving while the clutch cover removed. That way I could measure the slave piston travel. It would be nice to have X-ray eyes to see what is actually going on behind the cover! 😀

More information here: https://sjtrials.com/blogs/news/vertigo-bought-by-chinese-investors

Looking though my photos for that bike, I dimpled the steel plates. It made a huge difference in the clutch plates not sticking together when cold.

I'm familiar with the old style, having replaced one of those baskets. It looks to me like the newer style omitted the rubber dampers. and fastened the basket directly to the primary gear. I can't say if the two would interchange. Appears the ID is different. ???

It's commonly done. Touch up is really not necessary unless it's a show bike. Only downside is that the "paint" (it's really a plastic) is very thick. It can obscure the stamped VIN, and diminishes clearance to parts that are a tight fit. It also must be removed for any electrical connection to the frame (but that's true of paint too).

So we have an Italian motorcycle with Spanish wheels and French bearings. My bet is that the damage was done at the time the bearings were first installed. Something did not fit properly, but it just got pressed together anyway. Use and wear (and possibly disassembly) exacerbated the problem. As I said previously, you are in the best position to guess what happened. All the forum can do is provide some hints.

Are there markings on the bearing to indicate its manufacturer? I searched the 2016 Evo parts diagrams. Seems the wheels are Morad (but the parts list misspells it as Monrad). Did you heat the hub when you removed the bearings? Your diagnosis will be better than most because you know all the history.

Each time you select the last numbered page, you will be given another 5 or so. The buttons at the ends of the range (<< and >>) give you the first page and the last page, respectively.

Wow, 0.016" at each end!? So the spacer is like 0.8mm longer than it should have been!? Or the bearing pockets were bored that much deeper than they should have been? Maybe the manufacturer changed the hub dimensions without changing the spacer spec? The purpose of the spacer is to ensure there is no (or very little) axial load on the bearings. I doubt it is an extrusion. I would assume it was made from tubing. My guess is that most trials manufacturers buy wheels already assembled. But Beta is a big company and may be different.

Don't fret, in less than 10,000 hours you too can be an expert. 🙂 From my own experience, trials helps other forms of motorcycling more than other forms of motorcycling help trials.

This is yet another example of the kinds of problems I see with all trials bikes. Even if the design is okay, the end result can easily be compromised by poor manufacturing and assembly. The soft alloy spacer was crushed when the wheel bearings were installed at the factory. The condition may have been helped along by a gorilla tightening the front axle. Even Honda/Montesa is not immune to this. While changing handlebars on my 4RT, I inadvertently swapped clamps for the master cylinders. Those parts should have identical dimensions, but they would not interchange.