konrad

Impact gun, electric or pneumatic.

You can download a service manual here: https://store-c2wf2mdg6g.mybigcommerce.com/content/Workshop%20Manual%202008-2024%20Evo%204%20stroke.pdf Go to PDF page 29 (3.10 shifting mechanism). I would be looking at item #1. It is accessible after removing the clutch casing (no need to have the engine out or dismantle it entirely).

The throttle body does not need cleaning, that is the air filter's job. Or are you talking about the outside of the TB?

Member poll: Bot or Not?

No experience with this, but can you modify the head gasket so you can use an o-ring? My old Norton required annealing its copper head gasket to ensure a good seal.

I don't think top riders' preferences have anything to do with a TL125. 🙂 Personally, I like a lot of flywheel inertia. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/my-modifications/adding-flywheel-inertia The best test would be to borrow your buddy's flywheel and install it on your bike. That way, any other differences won't complicate the evaluation. P.S. I'll bet that steel spacer is more corroded into the case than pressed. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of thermal expansion than steel, so a little heat will probably loosen it.

Sorry, no clue. The clean pilot just look like a modern Keihin. I'd advise sending pics to your next vendor to make sure it's what you need. Maybe you can find a part number here: https://www.cmsnl.com/

Maybe the finger just got tired? Human evaluations are subjective. I've used a fish-weighing scale to quantify how much force it takes to pull a lever.

Don't shove the wrong pilot jet in! Yes, that is a limiting cap that was introduced for EPA compliance. Reading a plug is a skill that can't be taught -- only gained through much experience and experimentation. Rather than bother about how the plug looks, concentrate on how the bike performs. Don't be afraid to experiment! I like to have at least one jet either side of standard to know in which direction to go.

Some water pumps have a drain screw. Otherwise, you’ll have to temporarily remove a hose. You may need to tip the bike to get out as much old coolant as possible. Refill so the tops of the radiator tubes are just covered. Run the bike for 30 seconds to see if any air was trapped in the system. Refill if necessary. Since there is no coolant recovery tank, any excess (due to thermal expansion) will just flow out the overflow hose. This is the correct level.

I agree with Lemur. But if you insist, I can highly recommend Splatshop. They are second to none in terms of price, convenience, and support. But shipping oils by air will likely cause a problem. The US Postal Service allows a small volume of oil to be sent by mail, but only when using the special precautions shown below.

The TXT321 was my first trials bike. I have a vague recollection that the pressure plate requires a specific orientation. Found the following pic in my notes on the bike. Note alignment marks. Also, I always short-filled the gearbox (using 450 - 500 ml) to reduce clutch drag. Discovered that on my own, but later learned it was the factory-approved fix.

In lieu of a mechanics' stethoscope, I've used a length of hose to track down the source of noises. Run the bike on a stand. Since you needed to replace the chain, it's probably time to lube the suspension pivots.

Your circled part is the old version of the silver part in your photo. Had the jumper wire caused the fan to run, it would have showed that the thermos-switch (thermostat) was defective. Time to take it to the bikes shop. Konrad out.

What you have circled is for an older model bike. Fun Module is a misprint. It should say Fan Module. The thermostat should actually be called a thermo-switch. It is electrically open when the engine is cool. It closes to turn the fan on when the engine requires cooling. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals in the photo I have cropped. At this point you may need to enlist someone locally who has some electrical knowledge to help.

Nope. That's an unusual combination CDI and high-tension coil. Silver box is the rectifier/regulator.

Substitute the thermostat (switch that is in the radiator) with a piece of wire while the engine is running. The fan should run. You can test for DC voltage between the wire leading into the thermostat and chassis ground with a multimeter or a 12V light bulb. BTW, the alternator comprises the flywheel and stator plate behind the flywheel. The yellow wire from the stator provides power for the fan. The stator emits AC and the regulator changes it to DC and and limits the voltage.

You can test the fan itself by applying 12 VDC directly to it from a battery. Fan motors often fail if the bike gets pressure washed carelessly.

Yes, it's repackable and you must drill out the rivets. Oil is a bit like religion, and you will get all manner of answers. A white paper by Maxima indicated that small cylinders require a greater proportion of oil than do larger cylinders. The reasoning is that they are being worked harder and revved higher. But if you are not using the engine to its full potential, it's possible to have too much oil. It's entirely possible the carb is jetted too rich and that is exacerbating the problem. I have found that the needle jet tends to wear oval over time and this causes rich running. Before tuning leaner, I recommend replacing the needle jet. You should also clean the entire exhaust system. Without doing that, you may not realize when things are right because it will keep oozing old unburned oil.

Also, using K-Scan you can globally enrich the mixture (up to 15%). The will help cooling, but also will tend to soften the performance (which might be a good thing for a Factory being ridden as an Explorer). Globally enriching the mixture will also decrease range by a corresponding percentage.

The TXT also lacks the Pro's diaphragm clutch and patented "4 gear-pairs provide 6 ratios" gearbox.

The radiator is in an atypical place on the OSSA. I suspect the fan can't push as much air through it as if it were hanging out in the breeze like a conventional trials bike. I'd be curious what 2 maps are in your bike. As far as I know there never was a hard/soft map combination. Here is a list of the final .KDA maps produced: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/pc-software/map-loading-software K-Scan will tell you what map is in the ECU, but won't change it.

There must always (when hot and cold) be a small amount of free play there.

What's the best lube for a gearbox? Gear oil. What's the best lube for clutch plates? ATF. Pick what you want to optimize. Electric Motion got it right with the FACTOR-e, They used two different lubricants in two different systems. The gearbox lube is separate from the clutch lube.

Do you have the dual map capability? There were specific richer maps for road use. Pure water has the best heat transfer properties. The more antifreeze in the cooling water, the worse the heat transfer becomes. Of course, no antifreeze means you lose boil-over and corrosion protection. I have used a product called MoCool by Motul in roadracers where antifreeze is prohibited: https://www.motul.com/lv/en/products/mocool