konrad

I've never done a GG, but the EFI OSSA gearbox is similar (designed by the same guy). It's a goofy (patented) mechanism for sure, 4 gear pairs provide 6 ratios. Here is a service manual for the 2018 bike, which will have a similar transmission setup. See page 48, everything is held in the right hand case-half. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xOzbrZQDO_W_AxpjvHU1xJMOqfRsVfPJ

So 9,300 GBP equals 11,720 USD today according to OANDA's currency converter. I am stunned. I thought the 2023 Comp was like 12k GBP.

Seeing as how EM buys a standard charger out of China, their logic is severely flawed. Oh, and just to be clear, I'm shocked that it could cost only $12k USD. I had been anticipating something like $16k (not saying I think it's worth that, however).

When I follow that link from the US, it says, "$11,980.00 Tax included. Shipping calculated at checkout." Yes, dollars. I realize your price includes VAT, whereas mine would not. But that can't possibly be right.

Just added a section to my website on identifying model years based on VIN and motor number. See it here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/factory-documentation/model-year-identification I would love to gather more examples, and possibly even create a registry of where bikes are roughly located. If you don't want to share your complete VIN, even the 10th character would be helpful. Likewise for the motor number, the two characters after the "I" would be helpful. I'm especially interested in finding examples from 2015. Feel free to contact me by PM.

That is really good advice! Here is what I know about the clutch: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/clutch

Talk to your importer. A friend with a '22 thought his shock was bad from Day-1. You may be able to get a good price on a replacement.

Yes, that works to remove the left-hand locker shaft nut.

So does this make you a fixer shaft fixer? 😉 Although getting the old bearing out is somewhat difficult, getting the new bearing back in is even more difficult! Lots about it here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/gearbox/locker-shaft

2024 Vertigo? I thought there was an EU ban on exporting motorcycles priced above €5000 into Russia. Is that no longer in effect?

So the body itself has a damaged thread? This part won't fix it? https://www.splatshop.co.uk/dellorto-float-bowl-nut.html If not, can you run a tap into the body and clean it up? Here's the entire carb with the BS suffix (your jetting may be different) https://www.splatshop.co.uk/dellorto-phbl-trials-carburettor.html

Ask ten guys and you will get at least that many different answers. 😀 You may want to consider your first trials bike as just a learning exercise. Only after gaining some experience will you understand what works for you. If you are actually going to compete on the bike (as opposed to just riding it casually) then repeatedly starting a 250 may become quite taxing if you have physical limitations. Wearing back support is a great idea. Any trials bike can be made more comfortable by fitting bar risers.

The Beta 80 I worked on had 21" / 18" wheels. I think that's what is meant by "big wheel" or senior.

I spent several hours riding a 2006 Beta 80 while attempting to improve it for an early-50s petite female. I still have the notes. On the plus side, the biked weighed 146.5 pounds with a half tank of fuel. The wheelbase was only 49 inches - that's 3 inches shorter than a typical trials bike of that era. Turning was extremely good. It was super-easy to kickstart. On the minus side, the engine was a bored-out 65cc KTM as used in their kid's MX bike. It used a very heavy flywheel and tiny carburetor to try and give it a trials feel. But it still had an expansion chamber type exhaust system. It ran like a detuned MX bike, not a trials bike. I even reshaped the combustion chamber in an effort to improve it. The gearbox ratios were also not well suited to trials. I needed to ride it in 3rd gear to have any reasonable ground speed, but then it lacked rear-wheel torque. It might be a suitable bike if you are very light and don't really have any other off-road experience/expectations. I would suggest you try before buying and also try a 125. A more modern Beta 80 may be completely different.

Also, The Hell Team's notes say 14mm thin wrench. My thin wrenches are Imperial and one was a perfect fit.

It should come apart easily. I would use a thinner 15mm wrench. Buy a cheap tool and grind it thinner. Do you have the same problem with the other side? Gentle heating always helps. Lots of Marzocchi info here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/chassis/marzocchi-forks

In John Robinson's 2T tuning book, he classified an oil's load-bearing capability based on the results of Falex and ZN wear tests. In addition to two modern oils (Motul 800 and Silkolene Pro 2) the highest-rated oils were castor based. So for engines having the very highest specific power outputs (e.g. road racing) using a castor-based oil is not completely foolish. But a trials bike does not fall into that category. And castor's drawbacks are, as mentioned, quite a nuisance. At one point in my life I was very interested in the chemistry of combustion. I reasoned that castor oil could also act as a chemical supercharger since it is an oxygen-bearing fuel.

Beautiful restoration work! Same goes for your RTL250F. Will you ride these bikes? Or are they just for show?

That's what I would do. Thinking more about it... I use a synthetic ATF in the gearbox because I like how it makes the clutch feel. But clutch feel would be less important on the Explorer than a trials bike. Might be smarter to use a high-quality gear oil since the gearbox is so fragile.

That shift drum does not look too bad. It does not take long for the neutral detent to wear like that. Your EasyStart is slightly different (and better) than one I disassembled. On yours, the wires are soldered directly to the PCB. On mine, there was an insulation displacement style connector between the wires and the PCB. One of the wires pulled out of that connector.

Excellent! It's much easier to fix these bikes (any bike really) if you have another for comparison.

You can use a degree wheel if you want, but I don't think the "when" is much of an issue. What you need to test is that the Hall switches actuality do switch. Test each Hall switch independently by only powering them one at a time. The top of the pull-up resistor also gets connected to the positive side of your power source. Monitor the voltage between ground and the output of each SS543AT. You want to see the output swing from roughly your power supply voltage to roughly 0.5 volts (or less) as you rotate the flywheel. I would suggest using a battery rather than a battery charger as a power source. Any battery between 5 and 20 volts would be fine.

If you turn down the insert, will the "cover" still fit?

That wiring scheme is completely reasonable. Ground in the center was an assumption on my part. I'll also take this opportunity to mention that you'll need a pullup resistor (say 10k ohms) for the blue wire if you test the Hall sensors as I mentioned previously. Search "Honeywell SS543" if you need a datasheet for the Hall sensor.

Great you were able to get some test values from Chris, he's the best resource in the business! Regarding the early and late timings, that's my nomenclature -- not official Leonelli documentation. I was trying to figure out how the system worked. Pretty sure I used a degree wheel, and supplied the signals marked Vdd via a 5 volt bench power supply and turned the flywheel by hand. Hall-effect sensors can work at zero rpm. The position (timing) of the stator plate will affect the exact high/low transitions. The 3 identical stator coils provide power for the fan and are not related to the ignition. The coil wrapped in white glass-reinforced tape provides the high voltage for the CDI. There is one winding for high-rpm running and another for low-rpm running. One end of each winding is connected together and I think also connects to the chassis. So you should see a very low resistance from one of the charge coil wires (red or green or white) to the aluminum stator plate.