konrad

I can't speak to the look of the "stealth" version, but the quality of Jitsie's stickers is excellent (comparable to OE). Some notes on the application process may be found here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/jitsie-mudguard-stickers

My interpretation is that they are all the same and it's just a matter of programming for 14 cells via the buttons on the back. It's hard to find but Amazon has the user manual on their website: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A142GjruVlL.pdf

Yes, it estimates SoC from voltage. I tell everything I know about it here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram

Yes. More information here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/tech-39mm-forks

AliExpress.com Lots more information here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/fuel-injector

For those interested, I have built a website devoted to Electric Motion trials bikes. I intend it as a give-back for all the things I've learned via the internet over the years. There is no advertising or commercial content. https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home Edit: Forgot to mention there's a very effective search tool built into the website - just use the magnifying glass at the upper right-hand corner.

I sold my 4RT a few years ago but the service manual said Mode 1 (press small button) is for dry terrain. Mode 2 (press big button) is for wet terrain. I really could not tell any difference and removed the switch entirely, which locks the ECU in dry mode.

The clutch has 3 stages of adjustable spring preload. Position 3 is maximum preload. There's more information about it on my webpage: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals EM made a video about changing the plates here: https://youtu.be/DGLoEmGWLW8

As the title states, I'm looking for a particular TR250i map. The exact name of the map is "20130727_OssaTr250i_Evo2.rom" I have two ostensibly 2014 model year bikes. The early TR250i came with the EVO2 map. The later TR250i came with dual maps. I have tried all available maps and the one I prefer is EVO2. Does anyone have that map file? I have not seen anything between EVO2 and EVO6. So I'd be willing to try EVO3, 4, or 5 if they exist. Thanks in advance!

I find it interest that the Explorer has both a main filter capacitor plus a filter capacitor in the EasyStart box. This latter capacitor is only connected when the fan is running. The trials bikes with factory EasyStart dispensed with the main filter capacitor. I think the entire EFI system was a learning process for OSSA, and perhaps Kokusan Denki as well (whose 2T experience was with snowmobiles). I also think it's difficult to generalize too much about how the different models operate. Not only are the "maps" themselves different, I believe some of the ECU firmware may be different as well.

I've noticed the same thing. And they did not design the box for easy AAA cell removal/installation. I've anyone has a dead EasyStart box, I'd like to reverse-engineer one of those too.

To check if the EasyStart is working properly, connect a voltmeter between the Red & Black wires at the 6-pin diagnostic connector. Momentarily actuate the kill button. You should see something close to 9 VDC for 30 seconds. If you don't, replace the 1.5V Ni-MH AAA cell in the EasyStart. Or simply remove the cell and charge it outside the bike. The bike's electrical system does recharge this cell at a trickle rate. But I think if the cell gets really low, the trickle charge becomes insufficient. Lotus, I'm not sure how you can start the bike while actuating the kill button. On the trials bikes, the kill action overrides (as it should). Perhaps the Explorer is different? I no longer think it's necessary (or perhaps even desirable) for the fuel pump to run prior to kicking. The fuel pump and Injector are powered by a seperate winding on the stator (I'm in the process of reverse-engineering the ECU). You can learn a lot by "teeing" a pressure gauge into the injector's fuel line. Most of the time these EFI OSSAs will start on a single kick if everything is working properly. The problem is that the system is quite complicated with lots of potential for things to go wrong.

Information on US website says yes. http://www.trsmotosusa.com/2020_TRS_One_RR.html http://www.trsmotosusa.com/2020_TRS_One_R.html

If you don't get a better answer, I'll say that 0.002" is too tight for anything. I'm guessing it may be a misprint and should be 0.020" as the service limit. 0.012" seems roughly right for new rings. At the risk of stating the obvious, the purpose of the end gap is to allow clearance for expansion as the ring gets hot -- you do not want the ends to ever touch. Minimum end gap is a function of bore diameter and operating temperature. New end gap is typically on the order of 0.004" per inch of bore.

I don't know the answer, but you can download a Braktec trials catalog here: http://braktec.com/product/ I'm guessing the caliper looks like this: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/braktec-4-pot-front-brake-calliper-mono-black-red.html Have a look at EBC's FA644X pads: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/ebc-motorcycle-5876/brake-systems-16456/brake-pads-shoes-16515/brake-pads-12845/a99314144bb6/ebc-brakes-ebc-motorcycle-front-disc-brake-pads/fa644x/6095770

Are you measuring the secondary with or without the resistor cap (which is typicality about 5000 ohms)? Resistance reading don't tell the whole story. https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/70835-montesa-cota-315r-no-spark-issue/ CDI ignition coils are fairly universal - a better way to test the coil is by substituting it into a working bike (almost any single with a CDI).

The problem is more than merely academic to me. My wife thinks the thing that will eventually cause her to stop competing is repeatedly starting the bike. I compete on a 250 because it's easier to kick.

I think the best way to make an alternator/starter work is in conjunction with an automatic compression release. But if just a compression release made your 300 as easy to kick as a 125, would you still want an electric starter? Yamaha used a small (3mm?) bleed hole above the exhaust port on the RD400 to make kickstarting easier. The hole really made no noticeable difference otherwise (as the guys who tried plugging them discovered). I investigated drilling a bleed hole in a trials cylinder once, but it would have gone right into the water jacket.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but I do see hurdles to overcome. One is the very high static cranking pressure of a big-bore trials bike. The AT1 (and RD200) had small cylinders with low static cranking pressure. The snowmobile application has electronic exhaust valves that are undoubtedly in the high-rpm (low static compression) position during starting. Two is, on a trials bike, there is often little run-time between starts to recharge the battery, and may rule out a super capacitor altogether. As you may know, the GasGas Contact ES uses a conventional starter with a right-angle drive on the flywheel side. You can see KTM's version here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQTnUxj16nQ

Congratulation on solving the problem! (And thanks for reporting your findings.) I think the simple explanation is that the pickup coil is polarized. The leading edge of the trigger structure (whether a tooth or a hole) needed to generate a positive-going (or negative-going) pulse for the CDI to work properly. The trailing edge would then generate the opposite polarity. It's not uncommon for both of these events to be needed in order to set the timing and sequence of operations inside the CDI. Quite frankly, I'm surprised it made any sparks at all. There has been a lot of innovation in ignition system design over the years -- as much so as engine design, it's just less visible. It ain't called a "black box" for nothing!

I missed this the first time around. That delay is really weird. I guess if I had to throw money at the problem, I'd throw it at the CDI before the stator.

I fixed some typos. Did that make it any clearer?

I think you will find the exciter coil is the one just right of bottom center. That coil is physically small for the DC-DC converter approach. I still feel the voltage you are seeing from that winding is low, but cannot say for certain without reverse-engineering the entire system. It would at least be possible to rewind that coil by hand. You could further test the ignition coil by heating it and observing the resistance change in the secondary winding. You could also use your peak detector on the primary side of the ignition coil (but reverse polarity so the positive lead is grounded. The CDI capacitor discharges a negative-going pulse into the ignition coil.) It may be difficult to analyze those results, however. There's not much more testing you can do without an oscilloscope. Sorry I can't be more help.

Yes. I'm working on a lengthy write-up titled Improving 40mm Marzocchi Forks, but briefly... GasGas says to use an SAE 7.5 oil in their Marzocchi forks. Unfortunately, there is a lot of variability between manufacturers in what they consider to be a 7.5 weight oil. I strongly suggest that you select fork oil based on its kinematic viscosity (which is measured in centiStokes) instead of by its rated weight. Peter Verdone has a fabulous table of many readily available fork oils along with their kinematic viscosity. See: https://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm Forks run cool, so all I care about is the kinematic viscosity at 40 degrees C. In the US, the recommended fluid is Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid 125/150 (which is 26.1 cSt @ 40C). Personally, I feel that is too heavy and am using Maxima 85/150 (which is 15.9 cSt @ 40C).

Those SKF seals are excellent. And, as faussy said, they should leak absolutely nothing. When you assemble them, a seal grease like Race Tech's "Ultra Slick" helps to reduce stiction. See: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/race-tech-ultra-slick-seal-grease-p