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Nope, and I'll admit I'm stupid for not having one.
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A stuck throttle is a safety concern on all motorcycles. The photo illustrates three things I do to pretty much all my bikes.
White plastic "doughnut" between grip and throttle housing. Grip cut well back so as not to interfere with my very robust homemade bar-end slider.
And a fourth: there's a dry graphite-based lubricant between the bar and the throttle tube. And even a fifth: frequent testing to assure easy self-closing action.
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Lemur, I will provide a counterpoint to your comments about TKO. I have not ridden a bike with TKO, but skilled competitors who have told me it's a game-changer.
TKO is no more dangerous on an electric bike than any traditional ICE bike (with the exception of a child's bike having a centrifugal clutch).
I see two immediate benefits: improved gyroscopic stability (improved static balancing) and a reduction in lag time when the throttle is applied. One disadvantage is increased power consumption.
If anything, the ePure Race is geared too tall. Considering driving force at the rear wheel, it's similar to riding a powerful ICE bike in 3rd gear.
The clutch itself is the same diaphragm type used on other trials bikes. Perhaps you can adjust the lever more to your liking? Choice of clutch/primary gear fluid has an effect on engagement feel.
Trapezeartist, learning to use the clutch well is an important part of modern (non-vintage) trials.
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The website is an outgrowth of my personal need for technical documentation. In some spots the writing is pedantic, in others it's purposely vague. Those skilled in the art will find sufficient information to conduct their own investigations.
There is definitely different firmware in the controller for different model years. It would not surprise me to learn that there are multiple firmware versions within a model year or for different markets/countries.
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You are correct.
In fact, I tried that exact approach. I called it the hybrid design. Have just added a photo to the write-up. Here is a direct link: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments#h.mz8dt9a6u3e
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That's great! When an EFI OSSA works well, it's a fantastic bike. Owning more than one officially makes you an addict. 😁
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Thanks, Chris. It's fixed now.
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Many sections have been subtly revised. Several new sections have been added.
EM Connect: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/controller/em-connect
Adding Flywheel Inertia: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/my-modifications/adding-flywheel-inertia
Controller Thermal Management: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/controller#h.caepne62t36l
Preferred Regen Solution: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments#h.wkoy7uqx2hr
Mecatecno Dragonfly: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/mecatecno-dragonfly
Battery Care and Feeding: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/ev-tech-101/battery-care-and-feeding
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I'm not sure the USA is actually excluded. Google Play auto-detected my location and I was able to load the app on an Android phone (but not an Android tablet). I was not willing to give EM my phone number just for a "look-around." You can get a pretty good idea what the app does from the sample screens.
My real curiosity is about the hardware. The 2023 controller has a different part number than earlier models. I'm wondering if Bluetooth capability has been integrated into the controller or if an external dongle will be required? The controller has a 3-pin CAN bus connector and a 4-pin USB connector that are presently unused.
My guess is that for marketing reasons EM will only make it available on the 2024 Comp model for now, and then possibly make it available to other models later.
I also wonder if the present exclusions have to do with working out data privacy or other legal issues for certain counties?
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It would appear it only works on the 2024 ePure Comp. From "About this app"...
With the app, you can:
- Customize your bike's settings to match performance to the terrain and your riding style. By adjusting the throttle, regenerative braking, power, or activating the TKO function, you can create your own riding style.
- See all your bike's important data live: battery level, engine speed, map engaged. Your smartphone becomes a real dashboard
- Lock your bike. Prevent your bike from being used at the touch of a button.
- Access historical data such as the number of riding hours or battery cycles.
- Contact sales or after-sales service directly from the app.
- Read the latest news from the EM community
Compatible model:
- 2024 Epure COMP
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Personally, I would write "Not Applicable." If only numerical values are accepted, then 0 and 0.
Alternatively, can the fields just be left blank?
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Congratulations! Your solution was exactly what I tried back in 2014. Since then, however, I have come to understand that pre-powering the fuel pump is not necessarily beneficial to starting. OSSA/Kokusan Denki "baked that into the cake" when they determined the start-up fueling.
I wont argue with your success, but if you have difficulty starting the bike under actual use conditions, or just want to learn more about the system, these pages are relevant to my findings:
https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/using-a-battery
https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/easy-start
https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/1-kick-starting
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Looks like you are getting your wish (sort of). I embedded an official EM video at the end of this page: https://sites.google.com/view/electricmotiontech-com/home/em-epure-race/controller
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I just downloaded the 2022 manual.
The red screw at the bottom is compression damping. There is no mention what, if anything, that other screw (your green arrow) does.
Damping adjusters all work in the same way. The number of clicks/turns out from the lightly-seated position (fully clockwise) determines the damping. The more clicks/turns out, the softer the damping.
I generally unscrew the adjuster fully, counting clicks from fully seated, to determine the maximum range of adjustment possible.
Don't be afraid to experiment. Just make sure you know the starting point so you can return to it if necessary. Make notes. A sensitive rider may be able to feel a single click difference. But start by changing 3-4 clicks at a time so you can notice the change. Honestly, it's not insane to try the extremes of the range so you know what the adjustments feel like. Just be cautious when riding. Don't begin with your biggest obstacle.
EDIT: To develop a feeling for what the clicker do, I recommend Andy Ibbott's "Suspension Education Program." I talk about it a bit towards the end of this page: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/chassis/marzocchi-forks
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Yes, that is the rebound adjuster. As faussy said, opening the valve gives less rebound damping. That will make the rear more "bouncy."
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It is interesting that the controller finally has a new part number for 2023:
2023 TL02R-50301-00-00 $1,871.00 2023 CONTROLLER
2022 TL02O-50301-00-00 $9,999.99 EM-CONTROLLER (2020-2021)
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EM's marketing literature says, "New linkage ratio for 2023 improve rear-suspension performance and increase rear wheel grip in all situations." Maybe that's what you are feeling?
When you look at the part numbers for the dog bone and rocker, they are unchanged from 2022 to 2023. Perhaps the 2023's Reiger shock is a different length? Of course, it's possible they changed the swingarm or frame but I think that's unlikely and I did not bother to look up those part numbers.
2022 12TC02O-30108-01-00 $113.94 EM-RIGHT TIPPER
2022 8TC020-30111-00-00 $121.75 EM-REAR SUSPENSION LINK (2020-2021) Units 2
2023 12TC02O-30108-01-00 $113.94 EM-RIGHT TIPPER
2023 8TC020-30111-00-00 $121.75 EM-REAR SUSPENSION LINK (2020-2021) Units: 2
I guess it's also possible the 2023 dog bone is different but they don't yet have any to sell and that's why the parts lookup says (2020-2021) for that item. EM's parts lookup leaves much to the imagination.
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Congratulations. Should have mentioned that the heat also degrades any locking agent that was present. I recommend using Red Loctite when installing new studs.
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I've had excellent luck getting studs out of aluminum. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is roughly twice that of steel. Using this fact, I heat the aluminum with a propane torch. Then I apply a penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) while still hot where it can seep in. Depending on the level of corrosion involved, sometimes waiting is necessary and sometimes more than one application will be required. Removing the studs while hot is helpful.
This even works for a steel/steel thread like a spoke and nipple.
Obtaining longer studs is very doable. But you may have to resort to getting them out of China via eBay or AliExpress.
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If you think it's an issue, then it's an issue. Personally, I'm a stickler for making the suspension work properly on whatever I'm riding.
I'm also in the US, and it's typically only 10 days shipping time. Splatshop's support and pricing is unparalleled. The price you see without logging-in includes VAT (which you won't pay).
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Tech only makes 3 spring rates, one of which is for over 90kg. SplatShop is an excellent resource for this information: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/tech-39mm-fork-spring-ally-steel-forks.html
They sell a large variety of Ohlins springs as well (with rate guidance): https://www.splatshop.co.uk/ohlins-rear-shock-spring.html
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Because I was applying to new plastics, I just used a household cleaner called Simple Green. That stuff will rapidly strip the oils from your skin! For anything more than a quick wipe-down, I wear gloves.
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I can't speak to the look of the "stealth" version, but the quality of Jitsie's stickers is excellent (comparable to OE).
Some notes on the application process may be found here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/jitsie-mudguard-stickers
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My interpretation is that they are all the same and it's just a matter of programming for 14 cells via the buttons on the back.
It's hard to find but Amazon has the user manual on their website: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A142GjruVlL.pdf
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Yes, it estimates SoC from voltage. I tell everything I know about it here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram
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