konrad

Do you have the dual map capability? There were specific richer maps for road use. Pure water has the best heat transfer properties. The more antifreeze in the cooling water, the worse the heat transfer becomes. Of course, no antifreeze means you lose boil-over and corrosion protection. I have used a product called MoCool by Motul in roadracers where antifreeze is prohibited: https://www.motul.com/lv/en/products/mocool

Your clutch is not disengaging. Possibly a problem with the clutch master cylinder (handlebar lever). Is it leaking? You may need to install a new "clutch pump piston". At the very least, give it fresh mineral oil and bleed any air out of the clutch hydraulic system. I added part numbers for the clutch pump rebuild kits here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/clutch#h.sf023em3dqtp Definitely change the gearbox fluid as well. Use any ATF that's available where you live. I would ride the bike for 1 hour and then change the gearbox fluid again. 7 years is a long time, regardless of hours. Inspect the drain plug magnet for metal particles.

At first, I thought 50 km/h was expecting a bit much from a kid's trials bike, but that is realistic from a test I just read. Although I have no experience with the 20.0R, I also just read that it has separate adjustments for power and speed. I would investigate the "speed" dial. Is it adjusted for max speed and not defective? You mentioned technique training. I take it your son is not riding it as a trials bike because 21 km/h would be more than enough for backyard trials practice.

The GG manual may be a typo. But if I had to guess, I would say the published spec may be the torque use by Morad's wheel building machine (likely with a lubricant on the thread). It has no bearing on tensioning a dirty spoke by the end user. This test shows the effect of torque on a lubricated thread versus a dry thread: https://youtu.be/-hSmtLVESSM?t=999 The link drops you into the relevant part, but the entire video is worth watching.

After seeing those spoke torque specs written in newton-meters, I agree they do seem low. As a very general point of reference, a standard M4 fastener might require 3.5 Nm, and an M5 fastener about 7 - 8 Nm.

Will it restart easily immediately after a hot shutdown? That would be a clue whether heat-soaking is the issue. Is this bike new to you, or is it a new problem? Could be something as simple as using "winter" vapor-pressure gasoline in the summer.

So it's difficult to start only when the ambient temperate is high? How does it start when the engine itself is hot? Have you checked the valve clearances?

The OSSA version of K-Scan will not work with GasGas - despite them both being Kokusan Denki ECUs.

I considered buying a spoke torque wrench when building some supermoto wheels a decade ago but decided it was unnecessary. Although torquing may make sense for brand-new spokes, by the time the threads see any mud, water or just dirt, tightening torque no longer has much relationship to tension. And proper tension is the thing you are trying to achieve. Tension does have a relationship to the sound the spoke makes when you hit it. Ducati even decided that sound was the best indicator of cam belt tension.

I assume they are Morad rims. You could try to contact them directly https://www.moradsa.com/ and ask for torque specs.

A bike that new should not need this trick, but in addition to lemur's penetrating oil, particularly nasty ones need heat. I generally give the nipple a quick blast with a propane torch. I always make sure I can loosen a nipple prior to attempting tightening. You can tell a lot just by sound. Try tapping each spoke with a light tool (screwdriver, spoke wrench, etc.). Tight spokes will ring. Loose ones with thud. You want them all to sound similar. I don't own a spoke torque wrench.

The nominal size for a flywheel puller will almost always be a whole number (e.g., 26, 27, 28, 30 mm, etc.). Like all fasteners, a flywheel puller is measured on the OD of the male thread. A 30 mm puller will measure about 29.8 mm (slightly smaller to allow clearance). Presumably, you are measuring the ID of the flywheel (female thread). Adding the thread's pitch (e.g. 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 mm, etc.) to the ID you will get close to the OD. Lacking a thread pitch gauge, you can compare bolts of various known thread pitches to your flywheel. You will need good light and possibly magnification to make an exact match.

The hex nut that's screwed into the flywheel looks like an adapter for a common bolt. If you remove the hex nut, what does the flywheel itself measure? Most of my pullers are in the M25 to M28 range. 1.0 and 1.5 are the common thread pitches.

I've made a number of throttle cables from scratch using bicycle brake cable and homemade brass ends attached by soldering. It's easiest to start with something close and modify it. In the States, Flanders sells a variety of stuff to build your own cables: https://www.flanderscompany.com/collections/cable-parts

Don't know how desperate/adventurous you are, but some Ducati Energia stuff appears to have been cloned in India. Here are two examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195766384472 https://www.ebay.com/itm/384465870455

How do you know? There is no "R" in the size description for the front. Yes, the bullet point says "Radial construction" but I think that only applies to the rear.

Lemur, do you actually have a Michelin front that's a radial? I don't. https://www.denniskirk.com/michelin/trial-trial-x-light-tire.pfp643430.prdf?fs=643430&rs=643431

Are any front trials tires radial construction? Appears the Dunlop D803GP has been discontinued and is being replaced by the Geomax.

Just found this pic on dritbiketest.com and circled the area in red.

The person to ask is Lotus54. My guess is that the Explorer tank somehow drains into the M10 x 1.0 port on the right side of the standard tank. There is a pic of a fuel level gauge I made shown here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/minor-modifications It used the aforementioned M10 x 1.0 port.

Part number for the Easy Start system is 1160030214. There were at least two different versions of the printed circuit board manufactured, but the changes were nothing a typical rider would care about. More information here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/easy-start P.S.That's cool to convert the trials model into an Explorer as you'll have the superior suspension components.

Well that is pretty cool. I Googled "chapman bsa trials" and the first hit is here: Looks like the original builder was a member here (mick_99) and replied, "...20 production bikes and there were 3 prototype made:..."

Although this information is for North America https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number many European manufacturers use the 10th character in the same way. So M would be 1991 or 2021. Does that seem reasonable for the bike?

That monoshock configuration is reminiscent of mid-1970s Yamaha MX bikes. Some interesting backstory here: https://motocrossactionmag.com/classic-motocross-iron-1974-yamaha-yz360b-monoshock/

The first time I used the steam cleaning trick was with the bike running on a stand while strapped to the trailer. It was the rear, and I just applied brake pressure while the wheel was turning. I could easily monitor the rotor temperature with an IR thermometer (which is totally unnecessary). Get the rotor so hot you can smell the pads cooking. More than one application may be helpful.