copemech

What versions?

That thing is just wiked! This reminds me of a mate of mine back in the 70's that had tires on a RD350 Yam. We would do that type of blasting on it! Just nuts!

Nothing wrong with that, you see! Get out, ride a bit, learn a bit, possibly reflect upon simple mistakes you may try to avoid. Some may naturally progress to a harder route du to their own agressive riding, others may not! Work on the skills! It is a skills game! Balance and teknique, against nature! Ride smart, in control! Yes, you can challenge yourself without being stupid, or you can take calculated risks, good thing here for the punters is that for what we do, it is a short trip to terra firma!

In reality, I think Chewy has come to love to hate these things as much as I do!!! In many respects, they are a total pain in the ass! Even off new! The design is soo jikky in the first place that it requires almost ultimate precise fitment to work, only test is holding air(which his did untill put into application), and even then may have problems. Even though this design seems industry standard for years now, and in a sense the price we pay for light weight and tubeless radial tires with good grip, I admit the fact the tolerances seem shoddy to me in this world of fine euro craftsmanship. Possibly we need to outsource this as well. Duh! For the same reasons, getting a new bike is a blessing and a curse. Takes me a week or more in the shed at night to go over everything, including rebuilding of wheels by packing each and every spoke nipple with silecon grease for corrosion prevention and truing wheels to whatever acceptable level I can attain. Most would never do it, yet a bit of prep here can save a lot of agony down the like if you plan upon keeping a bike. The corrosion issues in rims are a bigger issue as time goes on, and it only gets worse. Not having run the DID style rims, It does seem to be becoming more popular with the brands in a different manufacturer now. Time will tell. You gotta run what you brung! And make it work!

Oh yes, that will work!---NOT!!!!!!!! You are not getting a new wheel because of a rimband! I don't care if you threaten to jump up and down and pee your pants! You will only leave with wet shoes!

Yes!

Just ride the easy line, dab all you need and have some fun trying. At the end of the day, the personal reward is better than the pay! Big thing, relax !

Sounds as though you have graduated to "Novice"! Good! So you want a 2.9 Sherco? Go for it! They are not terribly aggresive in the later years, yet may require a bit of respect for sloppy control. Either you can ride it or it will ride you. You must decide whom is in charge. If you tire and let the bike ride you round, then you will suffer with it. If you use common sense, and learn how to ride it, you will be fine.

So which one would he be?

Sounds as though you got on fairly well with it then. The little Scorpa will get you around, but it will feel like a slug by comparison now. At 20 stone,you may like nothing smaller than 250, and the 2.9 is really 272cc. Sounds like a clean bike with good price.

Buy upon condition, yet I will tell you right on, a 2.9 Sherco would not be my best advice as a novice bike unless you are a well versed and aggressive rider. Not a bad bike, yet quite powerfull and can be daunting.

Any simple rule will give a good guage here, or simple referance to a screw diameter for comparison, 6-5 or 4 make good referenance for comparison to your target range. +-1, yeilds none to little perceptable change here.

Oh god, Well I am not totally sure about your 2000 model, but my 2001 had a scribe mark on the outer top of the case(where cover seats) , an index mark on the outside of the flywheel, and an alignment hole in the flywheel and stator plate that you ran a pin through so everything lined up for standard timing. And yes, it does seem that if timing is set back too far it may lead to hot exhaust temps due to tomuch unburned fuel going downstream, particulary upon hard running. Which is the reason I think one gan only go the limited amounts here, all based purely upon my own experimentation, of which there has been a fair amount. All said, same principals apply here as far as amount of rotation of the stator plate goes as the systems are similar in that respect, yet the later leonelli seems to have some advantage in advance curve and high rpm operation.

Chewy, I don't want to seen over critical, but as Dabster stated, thic could be self induced with the tire change. Fact is if you even toutch the rimband when doing a tire, it can be dislodged. Thus the leaky spokes. Changing tires will not help this. Flip side of this is probably the fact that wheels and tires are probably mass assembled to spec and supplied to the bike manufacturer. I am always carring a pocket air pump in the camelback, in the event of picking up a puncture during a trial, and have loaned it many times to "leaky" riders. Seems to me, the newer rim bands with the integrated stem are the way to go on a conventional rim now. I have not fitted one as yet, but my tire holds air for months! Even with that, rimband fitment is closer to art than science. A true skill, as I have had my ass kicked by these many times. Require proper lube as well, and plenty of it!

Timing procedure for the old style Ducati ignition is totally different. Ck the manuals.

I Luv PA, but untill he stops all that pulling and starts pushing on the pegs, he will never get a bike to turn!

Seems some just do not get it! Pity!

I would change the timing first, as they seem to come set on the agressive side for the sake of performance. Rotate the stator plate counter clockwise as viewed from the index mark to slow it and reduce kickback and stalling. -2 mm change = helps things, still runs well on -4 mm change = bike works good, little to no kickback or stalling on average. A bit slower. -6 mm change = bike runs a bit slow, yet smooth, chugs well at low revs, yet less power and sloewr response. Mine is currently set at -3 The one in the pic is at -4 as example.

If there is creep at stpos, it should be next to nil with lever pulled fully. You should be able to change gears and find neutral. If all the plates are new, I would think that part to be ok, Now, as far as pushing them apart to separate enough not to drag excessivly, then a couple things need to happen. The master cylinder must push enough fluid to the slave to make it react a certain distance to separate the plates. As the is is basically self adjusting, wear on a pushrod would not normally be an issue. How does the lever feel? Does it feel soft and slow to build presure? Is the fluid resiviour low?

Article I seen today stated ehe effected area was larger than the state of Texas! Hopefully not the entire thing!

I am suddenly wondering if thee are embedded Taliban! Bunch'o gaylic (how do you spell that,)twats! Merry Christmas !

No doubt, you need a Mont!

I feel your pain here Ben! Although the 3.2 can be a great bike in the right hands, doubt i would recommend one for the novice rider. Your question does open a whole can-o-worms here, yet put simply, Yes, there are a few tricks to making a 2.9 settle nicely, yet a bit limited, as it is what it is, which may well work for you after the 3.2--------- Other part of the same sentance is the fact that a 2.5 would be a better choice if you can find it, yet if not , there are still many amongst us that have come to get along well with a 2.9, as it is really only, what, 23cc, or 10% larger displacement? One BIG thing I would point out to you as a novice rider is the fact that the clutch is your friend. (and golden parachute) It is the thing that applies power at all times! If you rely only upon the motor to find traction, you will fail! Find yourself a slippery little section. Possibly even a slight grassy grade or mound of slick dirt with a down hill turn to a up! Whatever challenges you. Nasty sloppy turn. Try it in first gear, as normal, then try it in 2nd gear, forced to use clutch to apply power and find traction with it, then try third gear in the same, rev the motor all you wqant, yet feel for the traction using the clutch and smooth application, no lack of power here, it is there but you do not want it so you have to feel with the clutch, which with practice becomes easier, reguardless of motor, or revs, or even bike for that matter. A 125 will clean more sections without spinning more than any thing! Why? Go figure?