copemech

Well, from what you have stated it is not the top end, the bottom end or the gears, so it must be fine! Let us see and hear a vid ofit! It is difficult to diagnose noises or the tinternet. My crystal ball sucks! You state replacing big end bearing? Possibly so, however last time I checked, thece come in a conrod kit with a new rod and crankpin. You know, the other mating wear parts there upon a true lower end knock. What is your clearance Clarence? There are only so many rotating parts there, you know!

Not sure the exact configuration on the year bike, but sounds like a faulty voltage regulator taking the voltage down. I have had this on a beta before. Seems some years have an integrated VR rectifier for the fan though?

They may well be made of cork. And purpose is as Dadof2 stated. Ir they are deteriorated you will either need to find fresh cork to press in or remove them. I kinda doubt there would be a lot of difference in performance. Balance is not greatly effected with the light cork, and I believe many sizes can be had from hardware vendors right along with the rubber bung plugs.

So simple a caveman can do it! Try getting some patterns on a few trials bikes, primary side between mag and cdi, cdi to coil and such, then secondary. Problem on some with integrated cdi/coil though. Quite honestly, at least in my end of the auto trade, we have not tought/used a scope for much other than crank/ cam input to the computer for decades now whth coil on plug things and such, a noid light will do, oh well.

Now you see, soon as I get the wheels under the platform, what is gonna happen is I'm just gonna push that water heater which weighs more than me right into that 2x6 ft hole in the wall which is 2 ft off the surface, slip the required ali drain pan under it and hook up the water and gas! Simples! Oh, I gotta get the old one out first! This should be fun!

No, not common. Only issue has been those bashing the skidplate really hard and it can push the pad up hard into the clutch side cover(main one) and distort it, breaking the seal. I would inspect it, and clean it really well to see if it wets itself there, possibly.

Story of irony. My Serrow has been sitting through the hot summer months so I drained the car gas and replaced it before it spoiled. Put a gallon and some of avgas in for storage because it keeps better. Seals in petcock shrunk after the car gas exposure and when I came back a week later there was fuel staining on the petcock and tank bone dry. Got it started and went to the local station for car gas. Has not leaked a drop! Feck me!

Lots of bikes pop and surge at low speed, are you sure it is abnormal? You cannot just do full lock turns without using clutch to smooth things! Has anyone else looked at it?

People make a living doing that, I have never figured that out?

Yep, your pilot jet is plugged!

That is a pretty clean lookin bike for 10 years on. The Gasser pros can be a wonderfull bike in the right hands, my motto is, if PRO fits, wear it! They are not what I would call a low maintenance bike. Personally, I cannot even start one of them, although if I can find someone to start it for me it can be very smooth and torque oriented as long as you keep the throttle below about 1/4. Above that and my shoulders tend to pop out of socket at the thing starts to rip them out! How large are your gonads? I would guess it is better than what you have in weight and suspension and performance but be carefull what you wish for!

Always been a long O for me. Now a lot of them Brits call a Beta a Beeta! I have called them a Beater!

Amazing! And plausible I suppose! Where do you find this stuff man? Here, I have my ear tweak of the day for you, god, I hate it soo well! http://youtu.be/2ImZTwYwCug

This would be the plate(only) then for a UK spec '09 without dual map. Be sire wires exet through hole rather than slot! http://www.splatshop.co.uk/leonelli-new-stator-assy.html

Tony, I fear your '05 stator will not work on the lads "09 bike! Quick look on Splatshop site indicates he may wall need the longwire dualmap as listed on the third page here, ans also appears Chris is without at the moment, which means a new one for addidtional $100 or send his orig to Motoplat UK directly. Follow the pics of the original and compare carefully before choosing a new/rebuilt unit as years and models vary widely! http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/electrical.html?p=1

It is AJP is it not? Call Splatshop.

Don't recall hearing that, but you may want to ck with GG UK on it!

Call Splatshop for an exchange stator if you have checked the earths and connections. Transistors in there go tits up!

I find none of this unusual. The fact that you have likely been plodding around with that mix which may be a bit much, you see, the excess accumulates in the exhaust, then when you actually take it out on a steady run it really starts to get some heat into the exhaust which will start to burn off the accumulation. This is good! Yes the exhaust may get hot, but that has nothing to do with actual engine coolant temps as the heat leaves the motor, at least under light loads. Get it going like this then let it rest, but do it several times so the crap burns/blows out, then you will be fine and your muff will be better off for it. More brief periods of harder running will have the same effect, and I allways do this just to keep things from gunking up, and so the stuff in there does not light off badly! It will come to FIRE and melt down if you allow it!(providing there is enough fuel to burn in there) Smoking will subside after it is clean, although you will allways get more heat into the muff on hard running, as trials bikes are designed for more moderate use and the cooling system will not take long runs at high loading, best kept to half throttle or so. Long runs like this are better suited to the :50 mix, but :70-:80 is fine for normal pottering about and only occasional high revving, some run :100 but seldome rev or run hard and still just fine .

You will get a million different opinions here on those topics. Bottom line, you are fine if it don't rattle. Rings are fine, squish is fine. The factory did/does use select fit gaskets upon assembly. Most have one standard .4-.5 or so with sealer oround the water ports, the shim gaskets do not. I would use the standard. No difference in performance really. Max is three tsandards which may take squish up near 2.0mm for those that want to smooth power. Ring wear? Open issue, dusty/ dirty operation? Maintenance? Oil? Normal wear? A refresh is good, if no other issues, period. Although I would not, as the things are hard enough to kick over when well seated! I do not miss any performance in a 2.9, they are plenty for me, and I have had a few.

Ties are hard on a chainsaw. I have used a hammerdrill and pinned them using 3/4 rebar in the past. Worked well, harder to cut the rebar than drill the holes!

Sounds about right, yes. Sounds like you have a clue to what you are doing as well, which is sometimes hard to find nowadays. I am not sure just how many older parts American Beta has nowa, but there is a couple other sources of older bike stuff if you are not aware. Ron Commo, the previous Beta importer had lots of stuff and may well still. Not sure his number now as he has moved. Mike Komer at the Tryalsshop in NY has lots of stuff, and is likely in touch with Ron as well. I have no idea where to find a breakdown on that bike, myself. Only Beta I had was a Techno motor. Maybe similar, maybe not? Lineaway probably knows. Steve in Manhattan is a parts guy for many things, but not sure old betas are one of them. He may know some local areas to ride though, as you guys seem to be only about half hour apart. He may certainly be able to introduce you to more modern bikes though.

#3 bout cost me a beer through the nose!

Flint, have you managed to get out much and meet many of the KS guys at the trials? Possibly not, seems most activity down in Wichita area. You may want to call Brooks Yamaha in Manhattan ,(785) 776-6371, not too far, ask for Steve. He is a wealth of knowledge and a great rider with a long history in trials and a lot of experience. Great fellow. Can help you a lot if needed. FYI

Not sure what harness you have ordered or if lights are a must in your needs, yet here is a guide to eliminate most the crap wires and may still apply closely to your older bike as I recall. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/ryp_wiring_installation.pdf