copemech

Sorry, not trying to discount your advise, I have run them as well as it will not hurt, and you may indeed see something. Yet point being the necessary venting and crap entry points! Crap does not enter the bowl and jet area through the air filter or intake of the carb per se, all that is fed directly to the poor motor! Specially after a wash when the water takes the dirt right through the filter and beyond!! Thoughts for a few! And ck your cans! EMPTY them on occasion to remove all water and condensation!

Do you have a knowledgeable local dealer? The fact you have spark, is good! None of them are very strong to begin with, which actually leads me believe you have some other problem. Tatty wires are still wires, and they either connect or they do not! Some require special termination and tools to do so, thus I fear you well may turn the thing into a rats nest! Just saying!

lots of bikes get a bit rattly! God forbid anyone recall what many old air cooled bikes sounded like! We are now spoiled! So take the cost of the used bike and divide it into the cost of a new one! Multiply by thickness of wallet and somewhere in there you may find what you like! Add for your aptitude and deduct for parts! Problem solved!

Actually, the Dellorto has its own inline filter built in under the round housing of the fuel hose inlet to the carb. Known as the BANJO screen or filter, it is very effective, making an inline filter redundant. Just be sure to ck it on occasion. Any large particles in the bowl restricting jets and such probable did not enter through that screen! Yet the vents must breath, and are subject to water from riding and washes and such. Which is why I use short deflector tubes.

10,000 others have no problem with those forks, what is yours?

Mitch, were you given a dose of castor oil as a child? I was, near blew a seal because of it!

You would have appreciated the sight if me taxiing the plane around with no wings installed, no seats, sitting on a can, and a slosh bucket of fuel rigged up over the head! No one tried to stop me, with the 6 ft hatchet swinging around up front!

Urgh, yea the tubes on either side are vents to the bowl. Many run without, but I like to make mine about 2 inches long just to diflect crap. Longer than that has its own issues, and a closed loop simply will not work! Fix that and re inspect the needle/ seat if needed. Ck your cans for water too! It came from somewhere!

Gee Line, tell him the rest of the story why don't ya!

Hopefully you did not use some thick gasket paste, as normally I would simply use a bit of wheel bearing grease in the groove to hold the o-ring while positioning the cover. Normally the ring will compress a bit, then you feel the screws tension up and just a tad more is all you need, yet now you may have some compressability of the plastic cover as well yet you do not want to crush the plastic, so as long as there is tension on the screws and it does not leak you should be ok.

I have had good luck in the past on similar applications using 3M™ Super Weatherstrip Adhesive 08008/08001(black or yellow), available at parts stores. Clean the plastic well(alcohol wipe too), rough it with 80 grit, smear on a thin layer and let tack off while you apply to mating surface as well. tac surfaces should stick, weigh them down into position and let dry. Apply thin top coat on the perf metal after set so it soaks through. Mileage may vary with the plastic, use MEK for removal. Nasty stuff! Cheers, MC

The visual on that is not even good, Lineaway! I am spoiled on a modern bike, just wish it had a seat sometimes!

Those are the correct new limit specs. Yes, tight! Back to original question, I am sure there is a spec somewhere but I cannot recall where. Seems like new linit came in somewhere around .020in on the last couple of fresh tops I had done(replate and hone to match new piston at .001in). Once again, a lot here depends upon if you are fighting a rattle or just want/ need a bit or refresh.

For now, 3 or 4 will do you in! So get 6!

Not sure there is a published limit. However, from my recall, yours sounds about twice new limit on both accounts. I think if it is a rattler, you will not fix with rings, otherwise, throw some in just to freshen it up. My 250 rattled like hell at .002 piston clearance!

That is a good brief on the electrolysis thing, Biff! All very true! I have dealt with these things in the past. The really bad ones were the ones that you could detect NO stray voltages! Anywhere! Ground everything and it still occurs! Yet keep seeing coolant ph swing to Alk! Where is this coming from! Must be internal, somewhere. All these were dissimilar metal motors(ali head/ steel block). One of these was my wifes blue oval thing with no prior repair history, no other issues! I developed an unconventional fix for this that has worked! Yet I cannot fully explain exactly why or what the root cause is.

Dan, I feel your pain, them THANGS are weird at best and I have had mixed luck with them in the past. If this thing was an early or pre- production card, who knows if it was ever right? I am sure you may figure it out eventually, BUT! A new carb from Beta might be on the list of things to do if you know what I mean. Seems they work well, just realize that when you open the throttle, you are really NOT! Balance of pressures does that for you balanced against a spring. Yes there are jets , screws and passages, if you figure them all out let me know!

How do you say "Damn good looking bike" in French?

Yea, the one on the muff is a vibration insulator of sorts. Has a rubber insert or something as I recall so things can shake just a bit on the muff side without breaking.

May need to assist on that as well, you fixer you!

Adrian at Lewissport had a fellow doing them at one time. Not sure I would jack with it if it is holding oil and pressure!

Obvious you will loose what coolant is above the level of the switch! Not wise to mix coolant types, so if you are unsure what is in it, drain and flush the system and start over with mix of choice. There are several available. Ten stick with a good brand.

I thought those were for baw bags?

Well, good you figured that out! I was gonna tell you the same. I have run the light clutch for a long time and it is trickey at best. On your older bike, I MIGHT be able to do it, but I am half your weight it seems, and even then I would have to go with thin ATF to get a bite as opposed to a slip. It does work fine on my "12 bike though, for my weight. I think they are using heavier springs now. And I am talking it will do a full rev and pop in third for a splatter with no slip. Yet still a delightful light pull for my old finger! Oh well!

This is correct, no difference on a modern bike, prolly M5 thread.