manwithtool

I noticed a fair amount of smale coming out of the seal between the header pipe and the silencer. I had been tinkering with the silencer packing so might have disturbed it a bit. Anyway, I removed the silencer and the O ring seals are in tact but there seems to be some some sort of sealant between them. When I replace the silencer should I use any particular sealant as well as the O rings ? Maybe I should change the O rings (2017 300 RR) but from past experience they are a pain to fit ? Any advice ?

So We've had the TRS 300 RR a few months so figured time to grease the linkage and swing arm. I'm used to working on Beta's and they are a bit of a pain getting at the rear linkage. No issues on the TRS 4 bolts and a jubilee clip and the rear end comes off revealing the shock and linkage. One bolt and the swing arm bolt and a brake line retaining clip and the swing arm is out. Fantastic ! First problem was when when I went to clean out the old grease and put some new stuff in. loads of needle roller bearings fell out. Same issue on the other bearings in the rear linkage. I managed to get more grease in and replace the rollers. So my question is what is the best way to keep the bearings in good shape ?? On the beta I used to wash out the old bearings and re pack with new grease but clearly washing old grease out on the TRS removes all the needle rollers. I'm very tempted to see about getting the bolts drilled and grease nipples put in the ends. A 2 hour job greasing it all up could be reduced to 10 minutes with a grease gun ! Any thought's comments ?

I watched the vid last night and I think the answer to my question is that it is one gearbox/clutch with One filler and two drains and a level plug. I assume I'm ok with Dextron 3 as Jim's casings were all red inside and the stuff that came out of my bike was blue/green which I assume is Nils oil ? The other drain appears to be the gearbox "in dent" (not sure that's the right term) so basically a spring with a ball bearing at the end. Good videos though, I'll watch them all a bit later. certainly seems like a nice bike to work on. I will probably attack those rear suspension bearings next. Encouraging to hear Jim say that the bearings had plenty of grease in them, My Evo had headstock bearings that looked like that had been on the sea bed after only 15 months...ok I should have greased them in that time but still !!

This is going to sound a bit silly but worth checking. We've done a few hours on the bike so time for it's first oil change. Now the manual says to use Dexroon III which I take to mean Dextron III, no issues there. got some in the garage. Drained and refilled 350cc by the gear change lever as per the manual. Now whats confusing me is that there appears to be a separate fill and drain on the other side. any ideas what these are for ? Actually my sons bike but Dad does the maintenance of course !

I do know Carbon comes in various forms for Graphite to Diamond and I think one other form. Anyway I'm goin got stick with 75:1 as I've not had any problems with that ration using the Strawberry Putoline oil.

Well , lots of info and opinion there ! One issue I was made aware of on a 98 Beta that I took a crankshaft into a local motorbike workshop. They said they had never seen so much carbon build up on the crankshaft, the surfaces not the bearing surfaces. So I'm not sure how carbon can build up in the crankshaft as no burnt gases can get in the crankcase other than blowing by the piston ? Anyway, point being too much oil can maybe lead to build up of carbon which is obviously very abrasive, only a problem if it can find it's way into the crankcase or cylinder. I think I'll run the TRS on the same as the beta....75:1 .

Thanks All, I would normally go by the handbook as said above they know best. But the emissions thing could be a factor ! I'll have a think but will run a bit more oil for the first trial as it gets run in. Always like grease nipples, would like to see them on the rear linkage but I guess they are a bit vulnerable. But would save alot of time stripping it down and washing out and re packing.

Just bought a 300RR and according to the manual it says 100:1 premix. Seems a bit low seeing as I run my Beta on about 75:1 . Any advice as I'm not too keen on keeping separate fuel, but will do what's best for the bike. Any other info on maintenance appreciated. I know there's not much grease on a Beta's headstock bearing, do the TRS spare the grease as well ? is it worth stripping headstock and rear suspension linkage down before it does too much work. The bike is used by my son and he's only done 2 hours practice to run it in so far. But he is absolutely chuffed to bits with it. The suspension is fantastic.

Well after 10 years in the cupboard I found that my Ellgren trousers had shrunk...!! Bought some Specialised gloves which have lasted really well. As mentioned above cycling kit might be better !

Well....I'm in a good mood ! shorted out the thermostat and went to fire the bike up, looked at the choke and saw the black bow (regulator ?) was hanging down. So the problem was that it wasn't earthing properly. Bolted back in place and it works a treat ! Relief !

Easy to turn by finger...!!

Cheers Guys, I will be looking at this tonight. Luckily this is my sons bike and I have a 250 Evo so we can at least swap parts till it works ! I will report back.....Something tells me I'm going to be reporting back in a bad mood and £120 lighter !

OK I haven't loked at the problem since we finished the trial. But my sons 290 was overheating, but the fan was only just turning. Seemed to go a little faster when you rev the engine but no where near enough to do any good. I suspect the fan is burned out maybe. Obviously when I get in the garage I will short out the thermostat to eleminiate that as a problem. Changing the fan is no issue other than the horrendous cost ! I'm more concerned that the feed might be lacking due to problems with the stator ? or regulator ? Can anyone give a few clues as to what voltage I should be getting at the fan ? or any other readings I should be looking for. I know where the stator is , but where is the regulator ? or is there no sucjh thing ? (I read in a previous post) Bike runs fine, no misfires or anything so I'm hoping the stator is ok ! Thanks

Mixed bag of subjects....but having just replaced my Evo fork seals ( a job I hate doing) it strikes me that an awful lot of crud builds up under the dust caps....Does anyone prize these things of anc lean under them ? should you spray WD40 in there ? I was told WD40 makes the seals swell up ? Also just about to replace the rear master cylinder on the EVO, this seems to a leak letting a bit of air in and some fluid out. How does that wear out in 3 years ? it's pretty well protected. Lampkins did advise squirting WD40 up there to flush out dirt and lubricate. Anyone do this ? and again WD40 affecting the seals ? Maybe I've been missing a bit of vital maintenance on my bike here ? Love to hear other peoples comments or advice on making these bike last a bit longer !

I had the same....My sons 2009 Evo had a small crack in bottom of petrol tank around the top mount of the engine. Lampkins replaced it FOC apart from £10 cariage I think....they supplied new headstock bearings and all bolts for the different rear subframe arms. They will supply the new one before you ship the old one back (makes assembly alot easier) but you buy the new frame on your credit card and then Lampkins refund you when you return the old frame. I think it took them about 2 weeks to get the replacement frame, as they have to come from the factory and have the same frame number stamped up. I think the way that Beta/Lampkins have dealt with this says heaps about Beta and their support. I ended up buying another 2009 Evo for myself as it hasn't put me off.

Fantastic Venue, Real shame about lack of riders and I suppose consequently lack of observers. But that didn't spoil the day for the riders. In honesty I didn't like section 1, and would have prefered to play in the stream more. Other than that still one of my favourite venues

Yes you got the answer right....Noi idea how I managed to miss the fact that the gearbox shaft is 9" long and the rod I measured was only 5".....As you say this little bit was a spacer between the two rods. Clutch didn;t work without it...but worked fine with it in place. I have read that some people fit an extra clutch plate, so the spacer might be needed....Next time I have the clutch off I'll count the plates ! Thanks for the help...its all back together and running fine now.

Cheers for that, CVGMartin, but it's definitely not a clutch roller....this thing is only half the size of a clutch roller. I put it all back together tonight and the clutch doesn't work...this little thing fell out of the clutch tube..so I'll pop it in again and see if it works. By the way the clutch rod is exactly 5" long...should it be longer?

Thanks for that. I need a bit more help. I had the gearbox out to replace the bearing. All went well, but a small bit of metal fell off the gearbox as I was carefully holding it and cleaning it. It's about 4m long and seems to be the exact diameter of the clutch push rod. There is no sign of anything like this on the parts manual. Could this be an extension bit to the clutch push rod to disengage the clutch a little more. This might explain why the clutch adjusterscrew on the clutch side is hitting the cover screw and has acually put a hole in it. It doesn;t seem long enough to stay in place ? but I guess the clutch rod only moves 2-3mm ?? Anyone got any clue ? I want to put it all back together but don't want to have to take all the primary side off again if this thing should be in the gearbox. Thanks

I have a few issues with my bike...any help with any of them welcome. What engine oil to use ? I'm guessing anything 20/50w ? GTX although I see GTX is now 10/40w When I went to drain the primary chaincase it had nothing in it....I have had to remove the casing (see next question) and it has electronic ignition...Is this the reason it has no oil...can the chain and clutch be used like this ? Having watched the newly replaced gearbox oil trickle out of the final drive sprocket bearing it seems this is knackered along with the seal. I've managed to reach the bearing via the clutch side, but how do you pull the bearing out....Or do I have to remove the gearbox and push it out from that side. Also when I was changing the primary drive oil, I noticed the cover plate/screw thing that goes over the clutch adjuster has a hole in it where the clutch adjuster has been hitting it when the clutch is disengaged....Any idea why this is happening...push rod too long maybe ? Any advice, guidance, hints and tips welcome...

I'm new to these old bikes and will probably need a fair bit of advice....is this the best forum for normal engine and gearbox type questions or can someone recommend a triumph forum for a 3ta. Obviously specific trials questions this is the place. Cheers

I've just bought a C15 frame with 3ta engine. It seems ok and I am tols it has bultaco front forks...I'm not convinced as they have the Chrome type top nut...Maybe the internals are Bultaco ? or bottom half. I'll try and find out more info and post it...Only picked it up Saturday.

As above....although some people say you can only go back to 2006...but we had a 2005 shock on the rear of my sons 2008 125. I did hear that if you fit them upside down the mud doesn't get to the places it shouldn't...Never tried it so can't comment..I guess I must have a 2008 Olle shock kickig around somewhere...knackered !

Can anyone tell me how difficult and what is involved in registering a British bike with BSA Frame and Triumph engine ? Obviously I'm talking UK here and assume the frame has a frame number !

Cheers PeteScorpa3 ! Looks like we'll be selling the 125 a bit earlier then ! Thanks for info.