coxy

Definitely take the clutch out and check the pack height, the clutch pack is suppose to be measured to size but when i bought one for my last bike when i measured it as soon i received it the pack height was exactly 10mm so had to jiggle it about abit with plates i had etc to get it to te correct size. The fact that your lever has become harder to pull will be because the clutch pack is too big and the small levers will not have as much mechanical advantage

Hi all Got a 2010 txt racing 300 with an ohlins rear shocker. Noticed it had abit of play in the suspension at the rear at weekend so took it to pieces to investigate and found the bottom bush/bearing in the shocker was knackered its the one that is the bottom end of the shock closest to the dog bones. Just wondering where a replacement can be bought from as ive seen some rose joints sold on internet but not sure if they are the same as my bush/bearing seems to a rubber peice around it but the ones been sold dont. Any help at all in sourcing a new one would be much appreciated Cheers

Ebay! I know theres alot of dodgy stuff on there but its also great for buying parts at cheap prices for example bought 10 wheel bearings for £8 and they have last longer than the gasser originals. Can source just about every part you want aswell and delivery is normally 1-3 days after ordering. Order everything for my bike from there now and have found alot of places like feetup etc all have 'ebay shops' on there.

Neil to be able to have them skimmed you need to find a engineering company that has a surface grinder as you cant hold them in a 3 jaw or 4 jaw centre lathe chuck. Ive skimmed a couple of discs now at work and aslong as your scores aint too deep they will be fine. I personally dont think the disc works as well after its been skimmed for some reason probably something to do with the heat treatment etc and they rust up quicker. Just get them to check the width of the disc after its finished as the minimum thickness is 2.4mm

Have you taken off the adjustment on the small pin at the brake pedal completely? The piston in the master cylinder needs to be as low in the cylinder as possible so the fluid can go past when using a syringe. Also try pumping the brake via the pedal and slightly crack the banjo bolt on the master cylinder you will hear a hissing noise when undoing the banjo bolt if there is any air in there. Most air gets stuck in the master cylinder rather than in the pipes etc.

Next humberside hawks trial is on 6th may at wilsons farm 10:30 start. Yeah there is either the easy route or conducted route to ride so theres something for an absolute beginner. Turn up early and have a look at a few sections (but dont ride them) see what you think you can do and then enter on that route

In my opinion i would say that a 300 would be a better bike than a 250. I had a 250 for 4 years and moved onto the 300 bike and wouldn't go back. The 250 is snappier all the time but you have to work it harder. The 300 can be snappy and very quick from pretty much stood still but can also be very smooth riding off the bottom with endless amounts of torque. The bikes only go as quick as you turn the throttle so i dont think the 300 will run away from you and you'll be suprised at how they ride.

Got a 2010 300 racing and i would definitely have another. They are awesome bikes and never had a problem with mine so far. Enjoy it!

Just had a look at the videos myself and hadnt realised that they were for the old style forks not the new marzocchi forks as i used the video to do the forks on my previous bike. Im currently searching for a video or instructions on how to do the marzocchis myself so will let you know if i find anything

If you go on youtube and search for Gas Gas fork seals theres a video on there of a Gas Gas mechanic (Jim Snell) who shows you step by step with instructions how to take out the old fork seals and put new fork seals in. Its not a hard job to do and doesn't take long so aslong as your handy with a spanner and have the fork oil you should be orite to do them yourself and save yourself some dosh

Humberside hawks have a trial on the 18th december at wilsons farm and then will be running a conducted dead easy route which will be suitable for your lad

Thanks for the replies, i think im going to try some of the apico levers as ive done abit of digging around on the net and they seem to be the closest you can get to the original levers. The levers i bought are a completely different shape to the standard ones and are more square in profile rather than rounded where your finger pulls the lever. You would of thought that you could get the exact same levers as what is standard on the bike!

Start out by trying the technique on a small hill as this will help to begin with and just try using your throttle back brake and clutch to keep the front wheel in the air whilst moving up the hill and keep stopping. Once youve mastered that you can move on to doing the same but then compressing and releasing your suspension so that you begin hopping rather than just wheelying. Once youve mastered that you'll find that doing it on a flat surface etc should be fairly easy to do. I dont think that its a technique that is really required unless you are doing some pretty hard trials.

I would rather just buy a new set of levers and keep the ones that ive bought as spares. I could ride with them if i had no others but prefer the levers which were standard as they are more comfortable to ride with.

hi all i have a 2010 gasser 300 and have snapped my brake lever. ive bought some replacement levers which are ok but feel a very different shape compared to the standard lever on the clutch side (feel more square than rounded across where the finger pulls the lever). ive seen the apico levers are available but was wondering is this the same shape as the original one that came on the bike or are they slightly different in shape like the replacement levers ive bought? as i prefer the original levers to my aftermarket replacement ones. Cheers

hi i use the renthal firm compound grips and have found that they are much tougher than the medium compound grip most people buy. if you wear gloves when riding i dont think you would notice that much difference. as far as arm pump/cramp is concerned ive been told to stay away from the domino grips as because they have the dual layer they are much thicker which causes more arm pump and cramp than a grip such as the renthals would, how true this is i dont know as ive never tried them. i know now that there is a pair of grips ( S3 grips maybe? ) which are alot thinner than other grips which is ment to cause less arm pump and cramping up, how good they would be for damage and wear i dont know with them been thinner cheers Coxy

hi guys, im looking at buying a van after christmas but only for trialing and maybe sometimes to go to work if the weathers bad. ive heard a few people say that you need to be careful when insuring the vans as the insurance companies dont like it when you say that your going to be carrying a bike in the back at weekends and bump up the premiums. has anybody had any past experiences of this and what is the best thing to do about it? ive been looking at getting a vauxhall vivaro and any comments on these would also be greatly appreciated of things to watch out for etc etc. Cheers Coxy

ive just bought a set of them myself and have had plenty of wheel bearings of ebay for about 2.50 for a pair as the price of a set of ten has just come down from about 15-20quid and they have been absolutely fine. i wouldn't bother taking them apart and repacking them with grease as they have a specific amount of grease in the bearing for optimum lubrication throughout their life and if you pack too much in then they actually wear out quicker as the grease becomes an abrasive rather than lubricant. for the price you will be paying for a set of cheap ones like that it would be fine putting two to four sets in to one set of good quality ones anyway.

Hi everyone I know that this question must of been covered hundreds of times on here but I'm wondering what ATF fluid to use, do you use a good make such as motul, castrol or putoline or do you just use any that's cheap? I've seen some castrol tq d3 I think it is from my local halfords and some castrol dexron 2 stuff aswell both in 1 litre would either of these be any good? Also at my local shop they stock putoline gp10 or light gear oil. Would you reccomend using this rather than the ATF fluid or not and why? Cheers coxy!!

Hi I've got a 2010gasser and on the back of the airbox is a large rubber covering the full length of the air box. It's got to the stage now where it is falling off as the glue has came unstuck. I've tried to glue it back on with araldite but that hasn't worked. I'm just wondering what all you guys use to glue this rubber on or do you use some small screws and fix it that way? Cheers coxy

hi, i have currently got the 2010 300 racing model and it is awesome!! cant really see much difference in the engine etc of the 2010 to 11 model except from the new exhaust system. after riding a 2006 pro 250 and jumping onto my current bike it feels great. i love the power delivery and all the torque it produces off the bottom but has plenty of go if you give it some. i would like to see how you get on with the 300 racing model compared to the standard 300 you had before and see if you notice that much difference. i would also like to see how different the bike feels with the extra parts on etc to the standard 2011 300 and see if that extra money been spent is actually worth it.

hi jon thanks for your help, we have bled the brake again exactly the same as the time before and upto now it has all been fine, will find out for sure tomorrow when i ride it. im guessing i must of had some air in the system which when the brake pedal has been pumped has moved to a position where it can be squashed or something as all i did was re bleed the brake and its came good and stayed good for atleast a day now. cheers

hi jon when i use the brake lever there is no pressure what so ever and i have also tried your method with the screwdriver and there is no pressure at all. if i bled the brake up again we would get a decent brake for the first four or five presses of the pedal and then it just suddenly disappears and there is nothing again. any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

hi all i have a gas gas 300 racing 2010 model. the problem is that last week i had took the back wheel out of the bike to clean the dog bones, put the wheel back in and had no brake at all$! but the weekend before when i had been riding the brake worked perfect all day. i looked around the seals, banjo bolts etc etc to see if their was any leaks and also checked and their had been no fluid lost and have found none so thought it could of been the seals in the master cylinder that had gone. well ive replaced the seals with a new ajp cylinder repair kit and have rebled the back brake up. for about 4 or 5 pumps of the pedal i had a nice solid back brake although there was alot of travel (thought this could of been due to it been at the minimum adjustment level), after the 4 to 5 pumps the back brake suddenly dissapeared and stopped working again just like it had done before. Does anybody know or have any idea on what could be causing this or a solution to my problem? Many thanks Coxy

hi, a friend of mine has recently bought a scorpa sy250 2001 model but it doesn't start and when it finally does it runs rough! What am wanting to know is; The correct fuel air mixture on the carb? how many turns out should the mixture screw have? what spark plug is required for this year bike? What gearbox oil should be in the bike and how much needs to go into it? the clutch is also sticking on this bike but the bike has been stood a year, new fuel has been put into the bike but not the gearbox oil, is this the cause of the sticking clutch? also any other information about the bike to make it run smoothly etc etc would be much appreciated. Cheers!!