coxy

Could it be possible when i had the new gearbox fitted that the main shaft is not quite central,causing the clutch to be slightly further over.Because I have only had this problem since the new gearbox has been fitted and just thought of this as an idea? Also would it be possible for the belleville spring to cause a heavy clutch and will it sort it if replaced?,and is it possible to get different strength springs to make the clutch lighter? yeah ive done the clutch myself several times now so i know that it isnt the assembly of the clutch that is wrong and also yes the top hat does move freely, its just had new o rings in it and now moves very freely. so far ive replaced all seals to do with the clutch and also the full clutch pack both steels and fibres. on the dragging side no there is no drag whatso ever its fine in the actual performance its just extremely heavy. i cant see how changing the oil will make any difference ive run putoline light all its life and it has been fine before the gearbox change so i dont think that will make any difference.

yeah ive done the cleaning of all clutch parts etc inside the casing and ensured that all of them are clean before putting them back into the bike, ive had the clutch completely to bits about 5 or 6 times now trying to get the thing right but thanks for the idea anyway mate. will the bigger master cylinder definitely make such a vast improvement because to be honest i cant see how it can as it works in exactly the same way as the smaller one and moves the same amount of fluid doesnt it?? i know that the clutch pack height is fine as ive had it apart several times and measured it with calibrated measuring equipment so its not that and even had other people from work do this too and they all have had the same reading and that is fine. how could the clutch mechanism be a problem, any light into what to maybe check would be appreciated because from what i can see its working fine. im using putoline light gear oil at the minute in the bike, should i use a different oil or is this one ok? ive used this from new so cant see how changing the oil would make any difference! thanks for your help and comments coxy

hi everyone just wondered if you could help, ive got a 2006 gg pro 250 and the clutch feel is extremely hard to pull in and let out to the point where its giving me pain in my arms and cramp even after riding just one section. the thing is ive replaced the clutch pack and re measured that and its fine and also had a full new set of seals and o-rings in because i thought that may be the problem. how do i get the clutch so its light again without spending hundreds of pounds on it?? ive been told a bigger bore clutch pipe and larger master cylinder and piston but would these really help at all?? any ideas on what could be the cause of this extremely heavy clutch ive tried alot of other bikes both the same year and younger/older and they all have clutches 4 times lighter than what mine is!! ive also just had a new full gearbox in the bike lately, could this affect the clutch feel in any way or not?? im completely out of ideas now and the way the clutch is at the moment its unbearable to ride so any help would be much appreciated! coxy

there two ways to do it that i use. the first is to hold the clutch and throttle so it keeps the bike in that position and doesnt bring the front down or the other is to like you say hold the back break. the back brake method would be better as it will keep your front up longer and hold it up aslong as u lean back enough other wise it will go down fast! and also when you drop off you need to apply throttle so that you land back wheel first

hi everyone thankyou very much for all your replies, just thought id let you all know what the problem was or atleast what it seems to have been. when i took the clutch pack out and measured it it measured 10.2mm so been and bought a brand new clutch kit and put that in today and the clutch height was 9.82mm and it seems to have sorted the problem now thanks coxy

if thats right then maybe i should alter the pack height so its less. if the finger height is say lower would this make the clutch heavier than the clutch fingers been higher??

the putoline gearbox oil that i use is fully synthetic stuff so that shud be orite shudnt it?? or shall i try using semi-synthetic or will this just make the problem even worse?? yeah ive had the bike since new and its basically a reconditioned engine ive just had a fully new gearbox and all bearings and then clutch bearings put in it aswell and before it was taken apart the clutch was fine nice and easy to pull etc but am wondering if because its been stood for so long has the plates swollen or the o-ring swollen or something to make it go like this. yeah i could try taking the plates out and checking them because i just measured the pack height as a total so will do that when i get back into the garage, skimming the clutch plates is no problem i could do that myself at work quite easily on the machines we have if needs be and i have plenty of other plates which i could check with to get it to the right size if they are swollen too. urm the clutch height of the pack was about 0.07mm above what it should be and thats within tolerance i think from what i remember from the book. finger height was again 0.07mm below what it should have been so i think that is all fine. coxy!

thanks for the replies guys. i am currently using putoline gearbox oil so not sure what thats like but maybe an idea to change and try a different type?? if so what type do you reccomend? i dont really fancy shipping one of them springs across from the usa and not even sure that it will work although a couple of people have given good feedback. will ring local dealer tomorrow and see what he suggests to lighten it up because at the minute its far too heavy and even after riding the bike through one section i have pains in my fingers and arms, that how hard it is to pull!! maybe the o-rings have expanded but not too sure where they are and how to chec so would be nice for any information or diagrams on this for me to be able to strip down and have a look would be nice. by the way its not the clutch smoothness im worried about that all seems to be fine its just the weight of the clutch as i pull it in it seems very very hard to pull in compared to that of say an 07-09 bike so does anybody know the difference between the 06 clutches and say the 09 clutch or is there none? thanks coxy!

hi im looking for some help or advice please, ive got a 2006 gasgas 250 pro and the clutch on it seems to be very heavy to the point where its hard to pull in and is hurting my fingers whilst riding. im just wondering if anyone has any idea of making the clutch lighter without spending too much money i have already checked the pack height and finger height and all is good in that region and all seals etc are fine, im also wondering if the smaller clutch hose that came standard on the 06 bikes would make any difference and would it be lighter if i put a bigger diameter clutch hose on?? cheers coxy!

haven have only got the test bike at the moment but are getting some in shortly. i have had a go on the 250 xispa demo bike quite early on when haven got it and from riding the other brands of bike and the xispa it feels very much like a sherco. the suspension felt abit soft and didn't have much life in it but am sure that could be sorted out with some adjustment. every thing else felt good, brakes were good and powerful and keen and had plenty of low end power and seemed to rev orite when opened up too and felt sturdy and that so hopefully haven and xispa will be selling bikes soon, cant see why not with all the others well into the 4k price bracket and this one staying at a much lower price. its just the reliability and strength of the bike that needs testing.

whatever you do do not put wd40 on ur pads it stops the brakes from working!! as yamahaty said just take them off and copper grease the backs and then get the brakes red hot and then drench them in cold water, do this a couple of times and it should sort it.

basically a slow action throttle is to compensate for having less or not too good throttle control as the throttle has to be turned more in order to get the same amount of throttle as the fast action one. I personally prefer the fast action one as it can be used for both slow, steady movements with only a small amount of movement or when needed to it can be whacked onto full revs quickly but i ride the hard route so that could alter my view.

from what ive been told the two connections dont need to be connected for the bike to work but when they are connected it gives the sun setting which allows the bike to rev to around 10,000 rpm and makes the bike sharper rather than when its not connected it revs to around 8,000rpm and is abit smoother so it depends on which setting you want really but i cant tell the difference except from when on top end.

ive had caluses for years now from riding pushbike and motorbikes and have found that nothing you can do will stop them hurting, ive also found that the best way to go longer without them hurting is to not cut them off but just leave them and just ignore it that seems to work.

apparently from what ive been told haven trialsport are going to have them in soon but not sure on a date or anything or how many or anything but theyre going to be selling for about 3000 quid so not that cheap really.

if its when the bike is in neutral and the clutch is out when the rattling is heard then theres no problem they all do it and it would cost a fortune to stop it and to be honest i dont even know if it can be stopped and the reason why your bike is setting off in gear is maybe because your tick over is high enough for the bike to move when you release the clutch or maybe it could also be that the clutch is worn maybe

Does anyone know where the Sheffield and Hallamshire trial is this weekend?

maybe the cabestany rep could be a 4t bike this year to sell the 4t`s better and to get more buyers/riders on the bike??

i love the gasgas but as soon as i had a go on the sherco 4 stroke i loved it. the power of the machine is awesome but also soft enough for any one of any ability. i think that the bike grips really well and at the sherco test day it was very muddy and slippy and i found that the best way to get grip on it was not to slowly feed the power in but to rev it hard and let the clutch out and the torque of the engine seems to be able to pull you up stuff even if the back wheel is spinning abit.the extra weight of the bike doesn`t seem to play a big part neitha and hopping about and stuff all seems to be done with little force and i found it easier than the 2 stroke bikes to get over rocks and stuff. overall i think that the sherco 4 stroke is the best out of all the 4 strokes atm for my liking and ive tried them all so i know if i had the money i would definitely go for the sherco.

thefront is a floating disk brake, the disc is suppose to move a little bit so you have nothing to worry about but im not so sure wether the back brake should be the same

yeah new brake pads do need running in to a certain extent, just run the bike around your garden or somewhere and take a bottle of water with you, get the brakes hot by slipping the brakes for a while and then pour the water onto them so that they cool. the brakes should then have removed any glazing or anything from the pads and bedded them in so they should work well. this may need doing a couple of times.

to gear it down even more you will want to increase the amount of teeth you have on the rear, decreasing will have the opposite effect and make it quicker again

a started with an 11 tooth sprocket on the front and then dropped it down to a 10 on the front and i think it is alot better, the 11 tooth sprocket makes the bike quicker and gives you less time to think about what you are doing and stuff. if anything i would say try a 9 tooth sprocket if you want to calm it down even more, from what i have been told using a 9 on the front makes the bike very slow to accelerate and stuff so it will calm it down.

all the switch does is give you an extra 2000rpm so instead of when its on "raining" setting it kicks out 8000 rpm it gives you 10000 on the "sunny" one, ive took mine off and just connected the two leads that are at the other end together which ive been told is basically like having it on the sunny setting all the time.

if youve got any problems at all with the bike ring the dealer you bought it from up and tell them, they should sort it out for you free of charge, better than messing about yourself and maybe making it worse