terry

Sure would like to see that with the tank and seat off!!

Bob's personal TY is the bike I have ridden. What a sweet machine!! He has worked on mine and will again.

I have been looking around for another TY instead of getting another modern bike. Sounds like I would be better to get a newer model 250 than another '74 model. What year models would you look for? I have a '74 and see alot of '74 models but it sounds like a later model would be a better bike to start with. I just don't seem to see that many '75 to '76 250's for sale. It seems like I see more 175cc bikes that are '75 and '76 models but not too many 250's. I think I might try the Boysen reeds and spacer in my bike and leave that one alone and start looking for another one. That is the beauty of old bikes, you can afford to spend a little on it and still not have as much in it as a used modern bike. If I spent 2000.00 on a TY I would have one nice bike. Who knows, I just might do it!!!! Thanks for the help.

My TY is a '74 model. I don't know if it is a standard TY250 or a TY250B. The bike I rode has different engine side covers and I think it is a '76. My engine side covers have 250 on the side. Mine also hade a fiberglass skid pan when I first got it. It is a twin shock and replacing the shocks with Falcons was money well spent.

I appreciate it. I just rebored it and put a new piston and rings. I also have an extra mid muffler that I have cut in half with a dremel tool (lots of little wheels required but sure made a nice cut) to repack. I saw somewhere some mods you could do inside to put a little more bottom end in the bike but right now it is just cut in half. If you know what to do let me know. I also put a Mikuni on mine when the TK was worn out and that made a difference. Has anyone tried the Boysen reeds? Might try a set.

I just wondered what some of the engine mods people do to the TY250 engine. I rode another TY a while back and it had unreal power from idle and pulled like a train. That engine pulled like a modern engine and I just woudered what type of modifications had been made to the motor. I have had mine a while now and sold the modern bike so I am only going to ride the TY. It suits me and I love riding it but I think I am ready to see what can be done with one. Anybody taken thier TY past stock? I just picked up another frame last weekend and am going to put some Hebo pegs on it while moving them down and back. Then I might have the frame powder coated. Next will be to find another motor and build it up. I am just looking for what is possible, what works and what to stay away from. At this point, money and time are not an issue. What have you done to yours??

I just wish some used ones would start showing up!!! I have ridden the 125 stock, with a 143cc kit and one that was bumped up to 170cc(I think, somewhere between 168 and 173). I think for me, it is the perfect bike and the 143cc kit is a must. Sold my Beta recently and have been riding my TY250 for now but a Scorpa is in the future. Nice bikes.

It would help if you told us where you live, but for the USA call Ron Como: http://www.usbeta.com/sys-tmpl/door/

B&J probably has a stock carb around somewhere too. I'd call Bob first.

Nice bike. What year model and size is it? The Matchless is one of the best looking bikes, particularly the engine, ever made IMHO but they are as rare as hens teeth in Tennessee. I have a spot saved in the garage for one someday after the kids get out on their own. I would assume a Matchless is a time consuming and expensive resto job? For what school cost these days its hard to start anything expensive!!

Even though you didn't buy them for performance, have you noticed any differences? Thinking about them for my 250.

I check MAVT every month to see the Playmate of the Month. Always updated and is a good site. Very nice bike. Looks like you spent the time to get it right.

Can't say for sure whats in it but I have done the same thing on my '01. All you can do to repack the mid-muffler is cut it in half then weld it back together or buy a new one for $350. I just left mine standing on end for 4-5 days, sprayed it down with solvent to clean it up and put it back on. I did replace the o-rings while I had everything down. Just hope whatever you poured down in it isn't flamable.

I have a '01 and it has the screw at the bottom but it also has a knob on the piggy back resevoir facing the front of the bike. What is that for?

This was on Ryan Young, the US importer's, web site today: Ok, Here is the latest. They are in production. They will only make 500 units this year. They have many orders to fill and will ration them out as they are built. We have one being flown in next week, hopefully we will have it at TX or TN nationals for test rides. They do have a oil filter to answer the question above. We should have half of our orders for teh 3.2 filled with the first container due to arrive at the end of May. The remaing should be taken care of end of June. End of July will be the last remaing 3.2s for 05.

My point is though that they have made a reliable and efficent fuel injected system for two strokes. They have reduced emmisions and made more power without a carburator. Of course, we don't need to whine about the price of bikes when a new 225 Evinrude will set you back $13,000.00!!!!

If you really want to know where FI 2 stroke technology is then check out some of the outboard motor sites like Evinrude, Mercury and Yamaha. The technology is there and it does work extreamly well. The outboard manufacturers are well ahead of the motorcycle industry in this field. They are also perfecting 4 stroke technology in outboards too. Mercury even has a supercharged 4 stroke, the Verado, but the darn thing weighs nearly 700 lbs!! Pretty interesting to see what has been developed over the years. They face the same future bans of two strokes as the motorcycle industry but I think their piece of the recreational pie is a bit larger so the R&D money is there and the incentive to clean up two strokes.

I have a '74 TL125 that I have been working through. I am working on the front end now and have replaced the fork seals and oil. No leaks now but the front end is still too soft. I used 10 wt Bell Ray fork oil at the amount in the book (don't remember the amount off hand). The bike is all origional and has two springs in each fork. The top spring is seperated by a washer from the lower spring and is about 4 inches long. What is the proper way to add some preload to the forks? I thought about replacing the top springs with spacers but then I fgured it might put the lowers in a bind at full compression. I'm sure someone else has had the same problem and worked it out so I am trying to benefit from others experience with the matter. I love the bike but I loose half the travel when I get on the bike. I weigh 200 lbs. Anybody got any suggestions?

Don't forget the fuel filter. If it is stopping up the bike will starve for fuel. Pinched fuel line? Had a similar problem with a bike and it was starving for fuel.

I'm not sure I would eat anything on Whacker Dr.

Well in the STRA the '01 are here!!!!!!!!!

Clark, What problems were you having when you began experimenting with the pilot jets? My '01 250 that I got from someone you knew out in Texas seems to load up a bit when ideling around too much. A good long pull and its good to go. It never fouls out the plug so I don't think it's off much but if the pilot was a little rich wouldn't it do this? I am searching for those nice clean revs right off the bottom all the time. I think the main is perfect because you can make a nice long run the shut it off and the plug is a nice reddish color.

Then who is left to put Beta on the podium?

Clarkp, you always have a good answer. If I could just get Santa to drop it off.

Anybody had any problems with the rear brake caliper support being bent/warped? Mine has been twisted inboard and the disk has been rubbing on the caliper. I can't figure a way to straighten it and looks like the only solution is to get a new support bracket. Mabey somebody out there has had this happen before and can offer a solution. There is no way I can see to shim it back straight either. It's not bad but just enough for the disk to rub and the disk has actually worn down a slight grove in the caliper. The disk and pad are in good shape.