griffiths of wales

Just a note to dog owners. Mr Richards the landowner has asked us to make sure there are no dogs brought to the venue this weekend. Its lambing season and the place is full of bouncy, fluffy lambs. On no account will dogs be allowed into the venue, not even on a lead and with a titanium muzzle fitted!! Dog owners...you have been warned Mark.

http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?cli...m=1&scale=50000 The event will be signposted off the A465 at Resolven (3 miles to the NE of the venue and at Aberdulais (2 miles SW of the venue). The actual venue is Lletyrafel Farm, the entry road is off the B4242. So from the north (M5, M50, A40 exit the A465 at Resolven) From the South or M4, exit Jct 43 and take A465 towards Merthyr, take second slip road (Aberdulais). Good luck...fingers crossed for good weather! Sections look good. Mark.

Try here! http://www.classictrial.co.uk/tsu.html

Had my Navara (51 plate) from new...only niggle is steering stops wear and dry out eminating a nasty 'creak/groan' on full lock...that apart no other probs.

Someone earlier on these posts touched on the fact that 'its a little more work for organisers', too right it is...we run a round of the British Solo Trials Champs(all in 1 venue) and a round of the British Trail bike champs (multi venues), the latter is bloody hard work. We use all our venues on the one day which means its one time less that we can ask the land owner for use of his land; section marking takes weeks; route marking is an event in itself..I could go on. I agree with the comments regarding the fun that is to be had from riding these 'road based' events but as a trials organiser/section marker/course clearing 'bod', I know which type of event I'd like to run. Riders have fun but spare a thought for the old boys who have to 'do the business'. Sorry to moan but I'm glad its just the one long distance trial we organise!! Regards, Mark.

Thanks for the reply and information..much appreciated. Best regards, Mark.

Any chance of someone taking a photo of this part and posting it in here? Skint after buying the lad a 280 '06 for Xmas...must be mad! Best regards, Mark.

I currently run 10 teeth on the front and 45 at the rear....

The gentleman at Falcon advises they fitted 50 Lb springs...fully kitted up I weigh 100 kg so that's what was recommended. Mark.

Falcon shocks turned out to be an excellent choice..bike feels like a modern bike and grips even better. Well pleased and highly recommended. Oh yes, they cost

Just purchased a set from Falcon (13.9" centres)...my Marzochiis are knackered, I'm riding on Boxing day and the new Falcons are covered in fancy paper, tinsel and bows!!...can't see me having time for Christmas dinner. ATB Lads, Mark.

A while ago someone in here mentioned that they would be importing some carbs that would fit directly to a Seeley/TL200 type engine...anyone have any information? After trying all sorts possible solutions to a lack of power I am experiencing, trying out a new carb is going to be my next move. All the best, Mark.

I got myself a copy recently;from EBAY as it happens...anyone want a scanned version forward me your email address and I'll see what I can do. Cheers all.

Thanks for the offer Martin....mines the bloody left side! never mind, I'll get the leg welded and machined. Now that I know that the leg is common to a few other bikes I can always go looking for a few spares, thanks again, Mark.

Not sure..I'll post a pic, thanks for the tip though...cheers, Mark.

Any fellow Seeley owners in here know the best way to change the fork seals? Just found that one of my fork legs has a serious 'ding' right where the seals sit and it looks like a welding job may be required. The damage is so bad that most of the width of the top seal is visible, I will probably have to get a sleeve made to match the top of the leg, section it,weld it into position and machine top bore to suit the new seal. Any dis-assembly/assembly info warmly welcomed. Thanks again, Mark.

OK cheers lads...I'll check with the platers. One of the lads seems to think that any surface not requiring anodising can be treated in some way prior to being processed. I'll keep you updated..cheers, Mark.

Correction...just the rear hub has a 'redundant' bit!!

I have just stripped down both wheels ready for rebuilding and am about to send off the hubs for anodising...my predicament; do I remove the 'redundant' cast features (raised boss with hole and slot) before I send them off? Both hubs have features that are unused, think they were probably designed to cater for break activation...any thoughts..can't see a problem but thought I'd ask. Cheers all, Mark.

I get the anodising done by one of my tooling suppliers, so that'll be cheap! and had a jig made to make respoking fairly straightforward. Thanks again for the info and helpful comments, Cheers...Mark.

Cheers Woody..I'll have a discussion with the metal finishing people regarding magnesium. When I first enquired about the process details and available colours, I was told about a pre-coating that they use on some base materials that mainly consisted of a thin galvanise 'type' material-so maybe they have addressed a problem such as your comments previously. Cheers for that anyway and thanks for the spoke info. ATB, Mark.

Panic over...the tube between the bearings can be moved, I gave it a sharp blow with a socket extension and it moved sufficientl for me to drive out the bearings. The tube has thin, bendable lugs at each end that are designed to keep the centreline of the tube aligned with the bearings. Will now be sending the hubs off to be black anodised before rebuilding wheels with stainless spokes. Cheers all, Mark.

Cheers lads..its the inner race that normally lends itself to taking the removal force from its inside face, its just that there's not enough face showing to get my normal tool to 'sit on it'. After taking a closer look there is a floating tube between both bearings that has a small chamfer, i.e. < 1 mm, I am going to get a bar of suitable diameter and get one end machined so that it has a slight toe that hopefully will enable me to get some muscle into the inner race. I'll let you know what happens. When I do get them out, I'll reduce the tube OD by a couple of mm, just like most modern setups. Cheers all, Mark.

Before I start hitting lumps out of me rear wheel, can someone give me some guidance on removing the 6302 bearings. On the more modern wheels I have worked on, the bearings are normally removed by tapping with a suitable tool (bluntened screwdriver) from the opposite side of the hub, i.e. driving them out from the inside..made possible by the fact that there is a small portion of the inner race of the bearing exposed. On my hub, the bearings appear to be pressed into a shoulder machined into the hub..there is nothing to hit!! HELP!! Mark.

Woody.....used 2 sizes of duralumin tubing, 75mm and 30mm. Managed to squeeze the large tube to make the rear silencer part, slightly tricky to achieve larger volume and still miss tyre and shock when under load. Made a model of the complete exhaust using card and insulating tape...made all the individual sections and tacked them all together...presented to partially welded system to the bike, bent it here and there and finally got it completely welded. I used no packing or baffle in the system...not much louder than the old system....sounds great, good luck. Mark.