mcman56

Mr. Woody, I followed your advice and it worked out well. thanks, Dan <a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/?action=view&current=IMG_0040.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/IMG_0040.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/IMG_0040.jpg

I have a leaky shock on my 2002 2.9. Does anyone in the US rebuild these? Thanks!

On the subject of swingarms....removing the swingarm pivot (7/8" round thing) on this bike requires a hydraulic press. It is very tight and makes nasty groaning sounds as it is pressed in and out. I thought maybe something was bent but it is tight all of the way through and the pressure marks around the pivot are fairly symmetric. I'm thinking of using a brake cylinder hone or reamer to open the hole but how loose is too loose. Are there any recommendations on this? Thanks

Thanks. It sounds like I should give the C15 arm a try. However, it does have some cross holes approximately in the middle of the arm. It looks like someone had used them to mount passenger pegs. Should the arm be strong enough to tolerate the extra holes? The Bultaco parts I have are from a '71 Alpina. I thought for sure the arm would be lighter but it is not.

I'm planning to put a Bultaco rear wheel on a C15. I also have the swingarm and am wondering if it may be a better idea to install that also. From what I read, the C15 arm has limited tire clearance and is improved if made longer by an inch. C15 type mounts could be welded to the front of the Bultaco arm to accomplish both. Has anyone done this? Are there other recommendations?

Thanks for the reply. Did you make the sleeve a slip fit or a real tight fit? What material did you use..steel...aluminium..or? Thanks for your help with this. Dan

I am about to do a fork swap like this with Bultaco Alpina forks on a C15. I have a couple of questions on both methods described in this posting. 1. With the tapered Pyramid bearing method, the spacer/ reducing sleeve will be pretty thin. (49.5 OD, 43 ID) How do you get it pressed together without damaging the sleeve? Is it more of a slip fit vs. a tight press? It seems that the sleeve would have so little mass that shrink fitting would not work because it would heat or cool too fast. 2. With the steering stem method, how does the stem come out of the fork clamps on a Bultaco? Thanks, Dan

How do I get the bearings out of the swingarm? Is it all pressed together? Thanks...Dan

How does molasses eat rust? Isn't it sort of just sugar?

They also have a little bit more flex than bars with a cross bar and can be easier on your hands/ wrists. When slamming the skid plate down on a big rock or log, less impact is fed through the bars.

You guys are pretty smart. The forks popped loose but there was some water in the fork tube. I was able to get it moving fairly easily and dump the water. It seems to slide OK now. However, is there a recommended repair/ recover method? Should I disassemble and polish all surfaces..or maybe just flush a few time with oil and move on? Thanks, Dan

I'm in the process of removing forks from an M85. I need to pull the tubes down out of the clamps but am not sure how to proceed. Is the top of the tube tapered and fit into a taper in the top clamp? Where can you provide some force to get them moving down? (There is some corrosion.) Trying to twist the tube by hand does not work. The right fork seems to function as normal. However, the left tube is stuck at a length maybe 2 " less than full extension. The lower fork tube will rotate on the upper but that side does not want to compress or extend. Any suggestions?

By eye ball, mine do not align. It looks like I need to do some alignment checks. It also takes a hydraulic press to install the swingarm pivot. It is very tight all of the way through but does not look rusty. I forgot to check if it was egg shaped. Are there any recommendations on how to proceed? Thanks, Dan

How much more powerful? Is the 160 kitted Scorpa close to the TLR power?

I'm looking at a bare C15 frame. Should the swingarm pivot be parallel to the short frame piece across the back at the bottom of the frame? Mine does not look so. The little frame piece just holds the pegs but I would expect them to line up.

I have seen ideas for off the bike balance exercises. However, has anyone tried a non bike related exercise to improve timing? timing...as in a double blip with unload over an obstacle. It is one thing to know what needs to be done and another to time/ coordinate those activities together.

Can you write up a little comparison between the TLR and Scorpa 125? Is the 125 still a 125? Is the power similar to a TLR200? I have the US Reflex TLR200 and have wondered if the Scorpa would be better. 50 lbs less, modern suspension and modern brakes must make a difference.

I run 660 bronze bushings with the Sherco inner steel sleeves in the dog bones. There are no seals. There is room to install 90 degree grease fittings pointing down on the front of the dog bones and straight ones pointing back at the rear. A grease groove in the bushings distributes the grease. After 1 1/2 years, I did manage to break off the rear fittings. A easy-out made for a simple repair and inspection showed no degradation of the bushings or sleeves. A dealer somewhere on the US east coast had advertised something similar for Gas Gas and I basically copied the idea. I expected to feel some stiction but notice no difference. When replacing the lower shock bearing, I looked for one drilled for a grease fitting but they were only available on the next larger size. I notice that some Japanese dirt bikes come with needle bearings and grease fittings on the suspension. Is there any chance one of those would fit the dog bones?

With end bolts removed, should the swing arm pivot shaft just tap out? Mine seems to have a little play and then locks up like it is hitting something. Any suggestions?

Can someone tell me the size of the o rings on the rocker arm shafts? These fit in the rocker box when the shafts are pressed in. My gasket /seal kit does not include them. I have some 1/6" cross section, 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD o rings but they look too thick, like the shafts will never press into the rocker box..

Would installation of a 1971 swing arm be AHRMA legal on a pre 65 lightweight? I'm planning to install a Bultaco wheel on a C15 but also have the swingarm. It might actually make the swap easier. The rule book mentions frames and engines but says nothing specific about swingarms. I do notice that people modify swingarms and others offer aftermarket arms.

Can anyone tell me the chain size (520 or 428) and fork travel for an M85 (1971 Alpina)? Thanks

I recently bought one of the cheap inner rotor kits for pit bikes from ebay. I set it up on a mill to test and it gets 12 degrees of advance from 660 rpm to 2720 rpm. I have been told that 10 to 12 degrees of advance is normal for these. If you want a CDI with no advance, I understand that the two stroke ones have no advance. How much mechanical advance does the TL have?

I had a 1992 air cooled model for my daughter. The bike was great except a bit pipey. You would not feel it "get on the pipe" when accelerating but it would "fall off the pipe" when climbing hills. I did a few mods that helped tremendously. Looking at the picture of this bike, it has a much different exhaust pipe from our model....longer so it probably provides for much better low end power.

Does anyone have a diagram or detail on disassembling the Lucas distributors for single cylinder British bikes? I have the long shaft/ cam/ advance mechanism out of the outer housing. It is rusty but looks salvageable. I would like to know how it comes apart so I don't just start trying to pull stuff off and end up breaking it. Thanks!!