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mcman56

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Everything posted by mcman56
 
 
  1. Yes, I still have the originals. Who sells the one you mention? Thanks, Dan
  2. I have a TLR Reflex and a Sherco 2.9. Certainly, there are many differences but one particular has me wondering. Even relatively speaking, the rear end of the TLR has a much harder time on "abrupt" type rocks...like 12" to 18" squarish rocks. Is it just the weight or is a lot of it due to the short swingarm and twin shocks? Has anyone made improvements in this area?
  3. mcman56

    Fat Bars

    I have fat bars on my 2002 and like the little bit of flex they provide. With Protaper adapters and the Suzuki Factory/ KTM bar bend, the bar height is almost exactly the same as the originals. The big bar pad coves the adapters and total price was about $100.
  4. I have some 1971 Alpina forks and notice that the fork caps are vented so that they will breath in and out as the forks work. I have never seen caps like this. Would it make the fork more progressive if they were sealed..with maybe a valve to relieve pressure? Would it then blow seals?
  5. Well....I tried to assemble the fork clamps to the frame but the stem is about .275 short. The nut under the top clamp has a tube on top that fits up into the top clamp. The top clamp has a pinch bolt that grabs this nut and then there is a simple flat nut on top. I have come up with a few ideas. Does anyone have a recommendation. Need about 0.275 big nut under top clamp is .158 top clamp is .640 with .270 cross hole so wall is .185 above and below cross hole lower clamp is .635, the bearing sits on a .210 step on the lower clamp Option 1 press stem further up in bottom clamp. Engagement will go to .36 - not much Option 2 Thread inside of steering stem and use bolt above top clamp instead of nut - maybe..is stem hard?..part of bearing will ride on threads Option 3 use top nut under top clamp and make a nut similar to C15 nut for top - not easy to make nut (Did Bultaco do this somewhere so I could buy the nut) Option 4 shave .125 off of top of lower clamp, .06 from top and bottom of top clamp - a lot of work and weakens assembly Option 5 Make new stem - a lot of work
  6. Does an undercut log on a slope (10 to 20 degrees) require a different technique than one on the flat? I struggle with one maybe 18" diameter several inches off the ground. Timing seems difficult and there is a tendency to touch the front wheel and get the bike very vertical. This just results in the bash plate sitting on the log. The odd thing is that bigger more undercut logs on the flat are not so difficult. Other people do not seem to have this same problem. I understand a Jap Zap may be the technique to use but am not that accurate with front wheel placement and stand a good chance of just stuffing the wheel into the bottom of the log. For that reason, the wheel hits the log on it's way up.
  7. Mr. Woody, I followed your advice and it worked out well. thanks, Dan <a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/?action=view&current=IMG_0040.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/IMG_0040.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mcman56/IMG_0040.jpg
  8. I have a leaky shock on my 2002 2.9. Does anyone in the US rebuild these? Thanks!
  9. On the subject of swingarms....removing the swingarm pivot (7/8" round thing) on this bike requires a hydraulic press. It is very tight and makes nasty groaning sounds as it is pressed in and out. I thought maybe something was bent but it is tight all of the way through and the pressure marks around the pivot are fairly symmetric. I'm thinking of using a brake cylinder hone or reamer to open the hole but how loose is too loose. Are there any recommendations on this? Thanks
  10. Thanks. It sounds like I should give the C15 arm a try. However, it does have some cross holes approximately in the middle of the arm. It looks like someone had used them to mount passenger pegs. Should the arm be strong enough to tolerate the extra holes? The Bultaco parts I have are from a '71 Alpina. I thought for sure the arm would be lighter but it is not.
  11. I'm planning to put a Bultaco rear wheel on a C15. I also have the swingarm and am wondering if it may be a better idea to install that also. From what I read, the C15 arm has limited tire clearance and is improved if made longer by an inch. C15 type mounts could be welded to the front of the Bultaco arm to accomplish both. Has anyone done this? Are there other recommendations?
  12. Thanks for the reply. Did you make the sleeve a slip fit or a real tight fit? What material did you use..steel...aluminium..or? Thanks for your help with this. Dan
  13. I am about to do a fork swap like this with Bultaco Alpina forks on a C15. I have a couple of questions on both methods described in this posting. 1. With the tapered Pyramid bearing method, the spacer/ reducing sleeve will be pretty thin. (49.5 OD, 43 ID) How do you get it pressed together without damaging the sleeve? Is it more of a slip fit vs. a tight press? It seems that the sleeve would have so little mass that shrink fitting would not work because it would heat or cool too fast. 2. With the steering stem method, how does the stem come out of the fork clamps on a Bultaco? Thanks, Dan
  14. How do I get the bearings out of the swingarm? Is it all pressed together? Thanks...Dan
  15. How does molasses eat rust? Isn't it sort of just sugar?
  16. They also have a little bit more flex than bars with a cross bar and can be easier on your hands/ wrists. When slamming the skid plate down on a big rock or log, less impact is fed through the bars.
  17. You guys are pretty smart. The forks popped loose but there was some water in the fork tube. I was able to get it moving fairly easily and dump the water. It seems to slide OK now. However, is there a recommended repair/ recover method? Should I disassemble and polish all surfaces..or maybe just flush a few time with oil and move on? Thanks, Dan
  18. I'm in the process of removing forks from an M85. I need to pull the tubes down out of the clamps but am not sure how to proceed. Is the top of the tube tapered and fit into a taper in the top clamp? Where can you provide some force to get them moving down? (There is some corrosion.) Trying to twist the tube by hand does not work. The right fork seems to function as normal. However, the left tube is stuck at a length maybe 2 " less than full extension. The lower fork tube will rotate on the upper but that side does not want to compress or extend. Any suggestions?
  19. By eye ball, mine do not align. It looks like I need to do some alignment checks. It also takes a hydraulic press to install the swingarm pivot. It is very tight all of the way through but does not look rusty. I forgot to check if it was egg shaped. Are there any recommendations on how to proceed? Thanks, Dan
  20. mcman56

    Tlr 200

    How much more powerful? Is the 160 kitted Scorpa close to the TLR power?
  21. I'm looking at a bare C15 frame. Should the swingarm pivot be parallel to the short frame piece across the back at the bottom of the frame? Mine does not look so. The little frame piece just holds the pegs but I would expect them to line up.
  22. I have seen ideas for off the bike balance exercises. However, has anyone tried a non bike related exercise to improve timing? timing...as in a double blip with unload over an obstacle. It is one thing to know what needs to be done and another to time/ coordinate those activities together.
  23. mcman56

    Tlr 200

    Can you write up a little comparison between the TLR and Scorpa 125? Is the 125 still a 125? Is the power similar to a TLR200? I have the US Reflex TLR200 and have wondered if the Scorpa would be better. 50 lbs less, modern suspension and modern brakes must make a difference.
  24. I run 660 bronze bushings with the Sherco inner steel sleeves in the dog bones. There are no seals. There is room to install 90 degree grease fittings pointing down on the front of the dog bones and straight ones pointing back at the rear. A grease groove in the bushings distributes the grease. After 1 1/2 years, I did manage to break off the rear fittings. A easy-out made for a simple repair and inspection showed no degradation of the bushings or sleeves. A dealer somewhere on the US east coast had advertised something similar for Gas Gas and I basically copied the idea. I expected to feel some stiction but notice no difference. When replacing the lower shock bearing, I looked for one drilled for a grease fitting but they were only available on the next larger size. I notice that some Japanese dirt bikes come with needle bearings and grease fittings on the suspension. Is there any chance one of those would fit the dog bones?
  25. With end bolts removed, should the swing arm pivot shaft just tap out? Mine seems to have a little play and then locks up like it is hitting something. Any suggestions?
 
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