mcman56

I usually ride a Sherco and had a good year but am not JW. Where could I find a picture of the TL heat shield?

Off idle stumble is a known trait of the single cylinder Hondas......maybe all single cylinder 4 strokes. It i snot uncommon to see them go pop and stall in sections. I have a Reflex and a slightly larger pilot jet was the cure for it. Although, it will occasionally stall when the throttle is chopped. It requires a triple blip technique with the third blip to prevent the stall. I'm also in Nor Cal and when the motor gets really hot the idle speed will change but I don't get the stumble. I could not find a source for larger pilot jets so drilled out one the the 38s.

Aluminum was adequate for a while but eventually failed. The kicker arm had to come out pretty far to clear the foot rest so that added a lot of leverage. A thicker wall with a radius on the step would have helped but it looks like steel would be best. Has anyone been successful with Aluminum?

In the US it is Veterans Day but I did not make the connection. Thanks!

Can someone explain the "We Remember" with airplane on the top of the page?

Does anyone know where I can get the drain screw for a TLR200 (Reflex) carb? If not how about a TL125? It is similar enough that it should work. It is an M6 - .75 by about 6 or 8.

My air filter assembly has a potential leak near the front. See the picture. Am I missing something? Should there be some sort of cage?

Charlie, I'm now trying to start the bike with the Keihin. I have gotten a few "pop, pop, pop"s and one with maybe 7 pops but she does not start. lean maybe? timing a little retarded? There has been no spitting back through the carb and no kick back. Do you have a starting routine to recommend for the Keihin? I know my TLR200 wants to be started a certain way. I have zero experience with British bikes and just put this one together so it could be something else. Thanks, Dan

Yes, it is possible. I folded the top front frame mount forward to create a mounting tab and made the two other mounts.

My C15 project is at the point where I need to mount an "inside the frame" exhaust to get leg clearance. This is a 1960 goose neck type frame. The oil tank has been moved in and slightly forward. See the pictures. (The oil line is not as close as it appears.) There is a section where the pipe sort of steps up and out. It looks like it may be possible to cut and rotate that section so it goes in an down. Has anyone tried that? Or...is it basically easier to build from scratch? Any advice on either option?

Could it be over stressed due to coil bind? Maybe the spring does not match the shock.

Did the brace help? Is it steel? What diameter is the rod? I need to make a brace for something similar.

Is that a Yamaha fork brace/ fender mount?

California requires registration to ride off road vehicles on public land. Bikes manufactured after 2002 have to go though some type of EPA "qualification" to be issued a registration with no restrictions. To my knowledge, none of the trials bikes have gone through that qualification. Some would most likely pass but it is probably not worth the manufacturers effort. So, bikes 2003 and newer are issued a limited (red) registration. Basically they can not be ridden in certain areas during summer (high pollution) months.

For CA registration purposes, I'm wondering if I can upgrade a 2002 to newer model standards. I could buy a newer bike and swap out everything but the steering neck and engine cases. With cutting and welding, steering necks could be exchanged between bikes. However, I understand that the cylinder changed at some point and the cases changed to accommodate. Does anyone know when this change happened and if it could be worked around? Would there be much difference moving up to an 07 thru 09? I have not ridden one. The 02 is OK except for the big gap between 3rd & 4th gears along with the lack of a cartridge fork. High speed hits on the trail spike right up to the handlebars.

Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, I may be able to copy from a Clymer manual. I believe power for ignitition and power for lights come from totally different charging coils under the flywheel. It will be AC at that point. You should be able to run the lights on AC as long as you have a voltage regulator ($15 after market) I ran a DT175 like that. The bike should light the lights without a battery but they may be dim at idle. I can ride trials with 9/44 gearing but a little lower would help. At 155 lbs, the shock springs seem OK to me but the fork springs were pitifully soft. You can cut them shorter to make them stiffer.

I have been riding a 2002 2.9 for a while and am thinking about a newer, maybe 2005, 4rt. Can anyone provide a comparison? I believe I will like the 4 stroke power. I realize it is not the same but have a TLR200 and like the smoother slower revving type power. But...do you feel the extra 10 lbs? How do the suspensions compare? The 02 still has damper rod type forks and I can feel spikes at high trail speeds. Does the 4rt run Showa front and back? Does the 4 stroke efi make it a little harder starting. Is the high idle easy to get used to?

Taking some of the flex out of the control helps. A slightly shorter brake cable, such as a 1990 XR100, cable is good...at least on the Reflex. A big rigid lever and perch such as stock Honda is also good. On the Reflex, the front brake is larger than the back and works pretty well when properly assembled but uses a fairly small axle. Have you looked at XR200 front wheels?

I'm putting together a C15 with an original oil tank. It looks like there is room to move it in towards the center of the bike. This would make the bike more narrow and possibly make space for the exhaust to go inside the subframe? (1960 goose neck). Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures of the mounts?

Thanks - I'll check out those throttle tubes. Chewy - Do you have any advice on growing those quick action legs. They are definitely part of the equation. Unfortunately, I also lack a quick action brain. Do any shops in the UK carry brain upgrade kits?

I'm having an issue getting enough power to get up some bigger obstacles. I can lift the wheel to the obstacle but then struggle to twist the throttle enough to get a big burst to launch up. Lifting the wheel 3 feet or so causes the bike to rotate up which requires the wrist to rotate down just to maintain the same throttle opening. I think that is what makes it hard to get that second bigger burst. Is there something I'm missing? Do I need to "over grip" the throttle prior to big obstacles to allow some more twist? The bike is a Sherco 2.9 so does have adequate power. I have retarded the timing and run the slow throttle because the softer response helps in every other situation. I have seen others do much more on a 125 so I'm sure this is an operator problem. Any ideas?

I'm fitting together a C15 that has a D shaped air filter container. It does not look like the original design included a gasket for the cover but there are lots of little gaps for dirt to get sucked in. Does anyone have a method for sealing the cover?

Are there any longer lasting front fenders for a 2002 2.9? The factory fenders flex where the fender leaves the fender brace and eventually fail. This is the only bike I have owned that wears out fenders.

They are not UK based but used to do anything custom you wanted. http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/ Have you considered removing metal from the hub where the sprocket mounts?

The carb is a kehin 22mm from a TLR200 Reflex. I'm still putting the bike together so have not run it yet.