mcman56

I have had success treating elbow tendinitis and other forearm soreness with an "armaid". See the web site. It allows you to provide quite a bit of pressure when massaging tight or sore places. The first time I used it, I ended up with bruises on my arm. It seems quite expensive for a little plastic assembly but is effective. I have also found there are two different theories on tendinitis. A medical doctor will tell you it is an inflamed tendon and that you need ibuprofen. A more holistic practitioner will tell you that you have a tight muscle that constantly pulls on the tendon making it sore. If you can relax that muscle, the soreness will pass. http://www.armaid.com/

I did bronze bushes with grease fittings. Check out page 3 of: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....26708&st=30 Some text is at the top and a picture further down. Honing to a very snug fit, I was also able to get less suspension play than with the needle bearings. That said, when I have has squeaks in that area it is the spherical bearing in the bottom of the shock. (CL12?)

What does it sound like and run like when it hits that limit?

I would clean the carb again paying particular attention to the pilot jet. Blow it out and look through to verify that it is clean and that all surrounding ports in the carb body are clean. Fresh gas would also be a good idea. If there is water is the gas, a little drop of water can attach to a jet and limit flow. It can be most annoying to diagnose and solve.

Aluminum work hardens as in... when it is bent it gets harder. Hard metals want to break rather than bend so you need to soften it prior to bending. You heat and then allow to cool prior to bending. I have used two methods to get the correct heating temperature. One was to coat the area with a black magic marker (it probably has a different name in the UK). The other was to coat with acetylene soot. (I suspect that the soap trick is similar.) Heat until the marker or soot is burned off. I straighted a Beta cast brake pedal that was bent into a full U shape. Since it was such a sever bend, I did it in three steps stopping to soften the metal in between steps.

I found some instructions and am attempting to disassemble for rebuild. The instructions I found say to clamp the head in a vise and then it implies that I can just unscrew the bottom. When I try this, the chrome shaft does not turn so it does not come apart. It looks like I need to grab the chrome shaft and turn it but that seems likely to damage the chrome. Are there any suggestions?

Question #2 What type of brake cable do these use? There is a tab with small hole on the backing plate that looks like the inner cable would go through. But... the lever that activates the shoes looks like it takes a barrel type end. The barrel would never fit through the little hole so I mudt be missing something.

Thanks for the reply. Are all Sherpa sliders/ mud guard mounts the same or do I need to be concerned about year of manufacture?

I have a set of 1971 Alpina forks on a C15. The forks came with no mud guard or mud guard brackets. I have seen a few pictures of Alipnas with high MX style mud guards but I want to run low ..trials, standard type plastic mud guards. What can I use for brackets? Where can I get them? Should I just make some U shaped Aluminium bends or would something stiff... more like a brace/ bracket be desirable? Thanks!!

Woody, What are you using for a brake pedal? It looks like I could use the original BSA or with a little work fit the Bultaco pedal. Thanks

Based on some recommendation, I built a fixture to hold the frame on a bike carrier mounted to a trailer hitch. Using a long lever in the swingarm pivot, I tried to bend it straight but the 7/8" SS spindle on my lever just bent. I heated the short tube between the swingarm/ engine mount bracket and lower casting and was able to straighten the piece. Upon assembly, the chain/ sprocket/ case alignment looks straight ...or maybe straight enough. That heavy duty chain does make everything very tight.

I just saw this reply. The chain is an RK 428 heavy duty... maybe the "heavy duty" makes it wider?? The gearbox sprocket is a newly purchased 428. The rear wheel is from a Bultaco Alpina which I understood also used a 428 chain. I'll measure the width. I did put the original C15 wheel on and saw the same thing. I looked closer at the frame and the rear motor mount/ swingarm mount is twisted a bit to the right and up. I have another posting with pictures on this. This sort of pulls the back of the engine to the right and into the chain. I have been pursuing straightening or replacing the frame.

Part 2 My 1960 C15 frame has the kickstand on the right. Is that normal? It looks quite original.

Can someone tell me how a C15C frame is different from an earlier (1960) C15 frame?

Can someone provide detail on: "The 2002 had a problem with the vent tube inside the gas tank - take the petcock out and cut about a quarter inch" Does this mean it runs out of gas when there is still 1/4" of fuel in the tank?

FWIW It would be some work but you could pull in the clutch, shut off the gas and pull the plug immediately when it dies. A dry plug would suggest carb and a wet plug electric. On my 02, you have to be careful to route the fuel line away from the muffler. If the line got very close to the muffler would the gas boil? Your choke experiment may be safer if you could clamp on some type of temporary extension....even a metal extension held on by tape may work once. Would 3 miles be the distance you could go on just a fuel bowl full of gas?

The recommendation was to pop out the seal head and let the shock burp out oil and gas. This made me nervous so I looked at the picture of the shock that was done and drilled a hole in the location of the nitrogen valve. A small hole released the gas pressure with no excitement. After disassembly, I drilled, tapped and counter bored the hole for the Fox valve. After assembly, I took it to a local bike suspension shop for pressurizing. This Fox valve has what looks like a rubber septum...similar to what is on the bottle of injectable drugs. It is filled with a needle. The shop works on Ohlins shocks so I believe Ohlins uses a similar valve/ needle setup. I understand that non rebuildable shocks like this are assembled in a pressurized nitrogen chamber. Have you ever seen a picture of this? I can not imagine the setup.

I did not find someone to do the rebuild so with info from someone on thumpertalk, I did it myself. Moto-Pro was able to supply the shaft seal, bushing and oil. The seal is the same as a WP seal. There is no space for a schrader valve so the nitrogen valve is for a Fox snowmobile shock. Ohlins nitrogen valves may be similar. The shock no longer leaks and is noticeably smoother than before. The fresh oil made a difference.

I have a slow leak in the rear tire so want to replace the schrader valve with the tire. I see that bike shops sell them in different diameters. What does the back rim of an '02 2.9 take?

I'm assembling a C15 and see that the drive chain hits the inside of the engine cases. By inside, I mean the clutch side. This is a 428 chain with the smallest (13 tooth?) sprocket. I know you can run a 520 chain so something must not be correct. Can someone tell me what a notmal or expected clearance should be? A couple of pictures are attached.

These are the shocks. I can get a closer picture if needed. I can see what looks like a removable nut/ seal head around the shaft but am concerned about parts. I also have a lathe. Thanks, Dan

I have a set of shocks from a 1971 Alpina. They are red with chrome springs but I do not see any markings on them so am not sure they are Betors. (I could post a picture.) Are these rebuildable? Can I get a manual or procedure somewhere? I saw seals for sale on a web site but that is it. Thanks, Dan

I'm in the process of fitting the '71 Alpina rear wheel to the C15. It looks like all it needs is some appropriately sized spacers. However, I'm not sure what to use for reference. Sighting down the sprockets makes it look close but I suspect there is a better way. Measuring the wheels...center of tire to sprocket looks similar on both. Any suggestions? Thanks!!

I have an 02 and it has the taller low gears. Going down one tooth on the front sprocket gets it a 1st gear near the GG.

In addition to what others have said, the 2002 280 Pro Gas Gas has an aggressive power delivery. By comparison the 02 2.9 has a much smoother power delivery...not less power just a less abrupt delivery. The GG clutch also seems to need frequent attention. The 02 Sherco has taller than normal 1st and second gears. This requires lower overall gearing to get a first similar to the GG. The Sherco has a 5 speed and a big gap between 3rd and 4th. For trials, it does not seem to matter but if you trail ride the bike, it can be annoying and leave you wanting for a 3 1/2 gear. By comparison the GG 6 speed has a gear for everything.