mcman56

A "new to me" 2008 Rev 3 had the same issue. The forks felt very harsh like they were just blowing through their travel. Upon disassembly, I found the compression side was about 1" low on oil. The manual is incorrect in that it shows the oil level measured with the spring in place so maybe that is why is was low. The rebound side was about 1/4" high possibly because the cartridge was not fully bled of air. It took a long time to get the air out when I put in new oil. Once the oil levels were set to spec, there was a very big difference. The forks are nice and firm, possibly even a little too firm for my taste. The manual's oil volume numbers did appear corredt. Adjusting oil level is a common fork tuning procedure but since the right and left forks have different internals, they may have different volumes which could have different compression rations and therefore a

Are the crankshafts really different? The specs I found are that the stroke is the same for 250 and 200 so what is different about the cranks? It looks like Beta took a different approach than Gas Gas by sleeving down a 250 rather than boring out a 125. Although mine is a 2008 so probably does not have an actual sleeve like mentioned in the post above. Dan

Can a Rev 3 200 cylinder be bored to accept the 250 piston? Is it the same casting with the same ports/ port timing?

I just changed from an 2002 Sherco 2.9 to a rev 3 200. The Sherco had the slow throttle and retarded timing to make it soft. The 200 has the fast throttle. Although I have not done any big climbs, power wise, they are surprisingly similar in sections. The 200 is weaker at the very initial crack of the throttle like when coming to a good size step with a 1 foot approach. (This could also be engine tuning or my desire to just use throttle and no clutch in situations like that.) The other thing I notice is the lighter flywheel...when off the power. When chopping off the throttle to roll up an obstacle, there is a little less flywheel energy to pull you up. I have found myself panic reving a few times at the very top of things but assume I'll get used to it. I was on the Sherco for 6 years so whatever style I have must have been adapted to that bike. It seems to start on about 1/2 of a kick. The 200 feels much lighter and sort of floats over obstacles. Newer/ better suspension must be part of that feel. In some situations, the front end feels lighter. That could be peg location or maybe I'm holding power on longer. It also turns much tighter than the Sherco. It has the same stroke as the 250. Does anyone know if the cylinder casting is the same? If I decided I wanted a 250 could I just have it bored out and plated?

Is it a new rattle or has it always been there? Many older Hondas had somewhat noisy cam chains. My TLR is like that. I also had a CB750 that was the same. It may be normal. You may want to compare to another TLR. For ease of use, you can buy feeler gages that are bent. Like this: http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-12-blade-combination-tappet-and-feeler-gauge-set

Will a standard fat bar handlebar pad work on a Rev 3? If not, I saw a small Beta identified pad on an Evo. Is that the only option? Where do can I buy one?

I have several spare AJP levers with a small pivot hole but now ride a Rev3 that has levers with a large pivot hole. Can the AJPs be made to work by drilling them out or maybe using a special pivot bolt?

I looked through the post at the top of the Beta section in great detail but the drilling instructions are not there. The closest I find is a "translation" from a broken link that I can not understand. It looks like Mr. Addict posted some pictures but they are no longer there. Do you have any other recommendation on where to look? Neo

I see lots of references to a carb drilling mod but can not find details. I found a link on http://www.kdmototrials.com.au but it is broken. (Tech_MIKUNIFix1.pdf) Does anyone know where the detail can be found? Thanks

I finally got my C15 together. Thanks to those on the forum that provided input. So...what should it run like? I need to do some more tuning and I have never ridden a TL125 but it runs like a TL125 sounds. It is super smooth and pulls smoothly and strongly from very low rpms but does not respond quickly. It takes lot of effort to lift the wheel 1/2 foot. (Bultaco front end/ wheel with steel BSA tank) It has the standard cam, big valve/ small port head, Kehin 22 mm carb and an ignition with no advance...set at full (I believe). 18 tooth motor sprocket, 13 tooth trans sprocket and 54 on the rear. I was expecting some quicker response like a TLR200.

Yes, the kicker sticks out quite a bit to clear the foot rest. Plus, the clevis must add some stress. I remade in steel, made it slightly thicker and tucked in the kicker about 1/2" so hopefully it will hold.

I have a 1960 C15 and it has a tube comming up from the bottom for setting the gear box oil level. Is there a dipstick available that will work from the fill plug/ breather hole? It looks like they came on the 250s in 1967 but the fill plug hole is vertical rather than angled on the later models.

I had a 2002 with a non rebuildable shock. Parts were available and it can be done. There was some input that it would soon fail again but it has been about a year and I ride some every week. See the link below. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28332-shock-rebuild-in-us/page__p__232017__hl__*mcman56*__fromsearch__1#entry232017

This is for a Reflex and I don't know if the TL is similar. It fits the factory mounting points. Dan

I have an 02 and sometimes get the same knock when chopping the throttle off at sea level. The timing is retarded and I think the pilot is a 34 or 35. It is a little lean at sea level but starts and runs fine so I don't see it as a problem. This jetting allows it to run clean from sea level to 7500 feet.

Thanks for the input. What year was your 4t? Did it have the suspension linkage? How does it do on big rock steps...compared to a two stroke? I guess that is my real concern.

Paint a white dot on one of the blades.

I had bronze bushings made for my Gas Gas (left) and Sherco (right). They didn't last as long as I expected, maybe I didn't grease them enough, or the weren't a strong enough material. But they outlasted the needle bearings by about three times. Someday, when I'm feeling ambitious I'm going to try it again with a harder bearing material. I just noticed the last picture still has bearings on the sherco links, that was the 'before' photo. The picture of them installed on bike is the bushings. You have to use a grease gun with a flexible hose to grease them. EastCoastHopper, What material did you use? I did the same thing using 660 bronze and they do not seem to wear at all. I did put a grease groove in the middle so grease can get all around. I also angled the front fittings down so they get greased from the bottom. Dan

There is a company on ebay that sells after market rebuild kits that include needles. They have numbers for the different needles but I don't know how to interpret them. I have an SL125 needle in my Reflex. It provides adjustment that the original Reflex needle did not. AFAIK only the original #38 pilot jets are readily available but you can drill them out with something like: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=300-0019&PMPXNO=945609&PARTPG=INLMK32 Dan

Can anyone compare a 2008 250 4t with a 2002 Sherco 2.9 that has the timing backed off? power? suspension? handling?

I usually ride a Sherco and had a good year but am not JW. Where could I find a picture of the TL heat shield?

Off idle stumble is a known trait of the single cylinder Hondas......maybe all single cylinder 4 strokes. It i snot uncommon to see them go pop and stall in sections. I have a Reflex and a slightly larger pilot jet was the cure for it. Although, it will occasionally stall when the throttle is chopped. It requires a triple blip technique with the third blip to prevent the stall. I'm also in Nor Cal and when the motor gets really hot the idle speed will change but I don't get the stumble. I could not find a source for larger pilot jets so drilled out one the the 38s.

Aluminum was adequate for a while but eventually failed. The kicker arm had to come out pretty far to clear the foot rest so that added a lot of leverage. A thicker wall with a radius on the step would have helped but it looks like steel would be best. Has anyone been successful with Aluminum?

In the US it is Veterans Day but I did not make the connection. Thanks!

Can someone explain the "We Remember" with airplane on the top of the page?