mcman56

I recently had to replace the stator on my Rev3 200. On the first ride out there was some very serious knocking...at this point I don't remember if it was off throttle or if it was also bogging on throttle. Raising the needle two steps to full rich resolved the severe problem. (This is also about the time it got hot and very dry in northern CA so would include a change to summer gas.) Now I get some fairly minor repeat knocking and a little rolling of engine speed when cutting the throttle. Cutting throttle, it feels a little lean but applying throttle there is no bog or knock. It runs OK but not great. I had a Sherco 2.9 that would knock just once sometimes when chopping the throttle but this feels different. I believe the previous owner ran race gas. I have gone up two sizes on the pilot jet and retarded timing 2mm back to the stock setting with little effect. I had also fooled with the carb when diagnosing the stator issue. Various float level settings seem to have little effect. The idle mixture screw seems to have less effect than I expect but I have no experience with Betas breathing through Mikunis. So...could this just be an expected result of heat and summer gas? Could it be something else? What are the symptoms of a bad crank seal on the stator side?

How does it idle? Can you get a nice slow steady idle?

Copemeh What happens when you go to far? Does it knock like crazy on advance..or? I think I went 6mm in retard on my 2.9 and it made it a softy.

Niel on the Velocette. I don't know what it weighs but it is pretty amazing how well he can ride that thing.

Wow...no info. I pulled the rotor off and the key was quite mangled so that may have been my issue. While I was there, I looked at timing. I found a picture on line showing a 7.5 mm dimension. Mine was at 5.1. As a compromise, I went to 6.5. I also marked the flywheel for TDC. At 6.5, I got around 10 to 12 degrees of advance (using a timing light) That seemed low so I went back to 5.1 and got about 15 to 17. I'll try test riding with that. For comparison, I looked at the all informative Sherco manuals. The stroke of a 2003 is within .5 mm of the Beta but I don't know about rod length. Assuming they are similar, the 3 mm setting would be 20 degrees of advance. Does anyone have timing specs in degrees for other modern trials bikes?

I figured it out.

I liked firedfromthecircus suggestion so tried to become a site supporter. It told me my sign on name was already taken. Is there another process?

Is there a standard timing setting for the Rev 3? I recently had a stator issue and had it rewound. First ride out was OK but soon was knocking. I raised the needle all of the way and it seemed OK. Third ride out and there is still a little knock when chopping he throttle. I'm wondering if I may have advanced the timing a bit..or if the rewind could have altered geometry slightly. Prior to rewinding the stator, I had the carb apart several times so I could also have unknowingly changed the float height. I thought I would look at the stator first. Overall, the bike runs good....soft but it is a 200. It will start from cold and idle with no choke so I don't think I have an air leak. (90 degree F)

I agree with fastducs. But, if you decide you do need a softer spring rate, you could replace the plastic spacer with a spring. You would need to find one of an appropriate size. Some bikes come stock with a two spring set up. Some shocks are like that too. I believe the formula for two springs is: 1/Ktotal = 1/K1 + 1/K2 The number itself may not mean much to you but would give some gage for comparison....like spring X is 10% stiffer than spring Y.

I tried to add a "looking for something" post. It would disappear so I tried a few times. I finally looked at the rules and this type of post is not permitted. Oops! How do I apologize to the web site King so I don't get banned?

I'm using straight 40 wt for everything. This is a new assembly so the balls and springs are new. However, there was some corrosion and pitting on the cases so the seats may not look so good. This is a 1960 so there is no kick start seal. It sounds like you recommend living with it.

I have noticed something really odd about my C15. After riding, it will not leak oil for two days but then starts to leak at what I beleive to be a constant rate. It seems like there is some type of internal leak that fills up "something". Once that "something" fills up, it starts to leak externally. Oil accumulates on the bash plate so I can't find the exact source. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? This bike does have a right hand side kick stand. I have heard of wet sumping but the bike does not smoke at start up. It does leak while riding but I don't know if that is constant or just after start up.

Does anyone know what the original gearing is for an 08 Rev3 200? I have 11/ 42 but am wondering if 10/ 42 may provide some advantage at high altitudes....like sharp obstacles with short approaches.

I put in new cam plate. It looked a little different from the original, like it may engage further. It also had a newer part number than the original parts list. This is a distributor model. I did not see why it would make a difference but swapped the shift forks at the same time. The shifter now feels different when shifting, like more is going on. It worked OK during an hour ride so hopefully it is cured.

I find the Camelback Rogue to be just the right size. It has a 70 oz capacity and can carry several hands full of stuff. The Camelback also serves as nice back/ spine protection if you happen to flip over backwards. I have done several tests of that function.

I'm struggling with a similar issue on a C15. See the post above. I have it apart again and noticed that the shift forks look interchangeable. Could you have switched yours when it was apart. One may be bent or worn differently than the other.

I have the book but I can't find anything on adjusting the quadrant. I pulled the quadrant out but still do not see what to adjust. The two plungers look to be located in holes with no adjustment potential. The plate with the screw just seems to hold them in place. One interesting thing is that on one side, opposite the plunger, the flat surface is built up with about 1/16" of what looks like brazing. This area contacts the built up flats in the engine cases to limit the shifter travel. It is on the side that would limit travel on up shifts and I can't imagine why someone would do that. Thanks for your help with this.

How do you adjust the pawls? I don't see anything to adjust?

Would this be the bush in the main engine cases? Mine is the early style transmission,1960. The later ones seem to have more options for shimming. One odd thing about this transmission is that it has the wide ratio first gear and close ratio gears 3 through 4th.

My c15 slips out of 1st under a light load. So far at least, it has not done this under hard throttle. There are no sounds or jumps, it just sort of slips into neutral. I pulled it apart and the cam plate had a little defect where it catches the spring in first gear so I cleaned it up square with a carbide end mill. It seemed OK but after getting hot it started slipping out again. The cam plate has no BSA or part number markings. I have ordered a new one. The bike was dead when I got it and so I did a total disassembly with replacement of any suspect parts. If it was anything obvious I probably would have seen it. It does not slip out of other gears or have any other shifting issues.

Marking your practice sections makes them more competition like. Home builder stores in the US sell little colored flags for marking the ground before digging. I think they are in the pipe/ irrigation section. They are small, cheap, easy to carry and easy to stick in the ground. It is surprising how the markers make it more difficult.

You can use plastic tie wraps in place of the bolts. Some people even use plastic rivets but I have not tried that. The plastic rivets may be available for automobile interiors.

Following advice on this site, I sent the stator off to West Country Windings. They confirmed it was dead and rewound for 93 pounds including shipping. It arrived back two weeks after I shipped it too them. This has cured the odd bog issue, at least in a backyard test.

Does the Rev3 come with fork stops? I see threaded holes in the frame by the forks but no stops. Would anyone have a picture? I tend to slam the forks pretty hard to the side and have lost the little grill/ eyeball thing that snaps in the frame several times. I assume the fork tube hits.

I am looking at using an AMAL concentric on a C15. Overall the carb looks OK. The slide has no visible uneven wear but it is a loose fit in the carb body. It probably has close to 1/6" movement when pushed back and forth, front to back. Is this normal for a 376 carb? If not normal, can I just replace the slide? What is the carb body made of? It is heavy like cast iron. Correction...this is a mono block. The slide is light like aluminum.