mcman56

Your local trials club (PITS) uses "no stop" rules for Saturday events. AHRMA events are also run that way.

I have spent time looking at the parts lists. From what I can tell, the difference between the 250 rod and 200 rod is that the 200 rod comes with the bushing installed. It looks to be the same case with the complete crank assembly. As far as flywheel weights, I beleive UK sold bikes are delivered with the weights installed but US sold bikes come without them (less mud). It also looks like the ignition changed somtime on the Rev3s and the hole to hole difference on the weights have to match the year of the bike. My 2008 has an ignition made in someplace like Slovenia. One thing I do not understand is that I have seen flywheel kits for sale that include a spacer for the ignition cover to make space for the weight. My 2008 has plenty of space without any spacer. Does anyone know why that is? Maybe that is for the "other" brand of ignition. IMO appreciation of a flywheel weight is a personal preference thing. It slows down engine response and makes the bike much more contollable in slick and slow conditions. This can make abruipt steps more challenging. With a weight, there is also a lot more run on when the throttle is closed. I like that run on when going up short walls. You can approach the wall, hit the throttle for power, chop the throttle and then let the weight pull you up the wall with no need to use throttle. However, I have a ridding buddy that rides the same things as me and he hated a weight. That run on gave him an out of control feeling. After that long winded message, I realized that I did not answer the question. I believe the flywheel weight is item 23 on page 6. It is just a flat plate that bolts on the outside of the flywheel so it is very easy to install and remove. That page also shows the spacer, item 26. It looks like this: http://shop.americanbeta.com/p/flywheel-weight-kit

Can someone tell me how to remove the liner from an Airoh helmet. The side "ear" pieces snap out. The rear of the main liner also snaps out but how do you get the front of the main liner loose? Are there instructions somewhere?

I get a similar but slightly different number. The CR is BDC volume/ TDC volume. Head volume is included in the BDC volume so the head volume would be more like 26 cc. The new condition would be 308/ 38 or 8.1 CR. I just tried to paste in somes spread sheet cells but the format got lost. I did run a 1/16" (1.5 mm) head spacer on a 250 Techno. It ran fine. The only unique feature was that it would tolerate being pushed down to very low rpms with a heavy load.

Can you post a picture of what the head spacers look like before they are installed? I would be interested in seeing what a Rev 3 head spacer looks like. The really low published CR may be from a Japanese bike. They tended to calculate an "effective" compression ratio. For this calculation, the stroke was from when the exhaust port was closed by the piston to TDC. This produces a smaller number but tries to give importance to port timing.

I made a 1/16" thick head spacer for a 250 techno that my 4'10" 100 lb daughter was trying to start. It used o-rings instead of steel gaskets so was a bit different. It sealed with o-rings on one side and just RTV on the other. It ran OK and still does 8 or so years later but with fresh piston and rings was still too hard for her to start. With a mill and turntable, the spacer was not too hard to make. The Rev 3 steel gasket is also a water flow restriction so that would have to be considered. The Rev 3 200 is a small bore 250/ 270 and not a big bore 125. It uses a bushing to reduce the small end rod diameter but all else...carb, exhaust is the same. I converted a 2008 200 to a 250 by installing the 250 top end. I have been planning to put the low hours 200 top end on ebay but have not gotten around to it. If you are interested send me a PM. I also think there is an older 200 cylinder on Uk ebay right now. The older ones used a steel sleeve but the 2008 is all aluminium. I don't know when Beta made that change.

They do transfer less shock to your hands and forearms. Like when you slam the skid plate on a rock or solid log.......a little less shock is tranferred to your hands. That is the reason I put them on.

I put fat bars on a 02 Sherco. Using Pro Taper Suzuki Factory/ KtM bars and adaptors, bar position was almost exactly the same. The extra flex was easier on hands and forearms.

I only pulled off one side of the cases from the crank. I had to make a pull fixture to "push" the crank out of the case half. It did not go easily and wanted to tilt and jam so took a bit of time.

It was a tapered shaft fit so I expected it to be difficult like a flywheel. However, it came apart very easily...surprisingly easy. I just tapped it with a light brass hammer and then pried up with screw drivers. (being careful not to damage the gasket surface) This was a 2008 that started as a 200.

A little water can do this and be very hard to see or find in the system. I have seen a little drop stuck in a pilot jet. On one bike I drained and air dryed the entire system but still had the problem. Finally a can of dry gas cleared the water. Dry gas has differferent names but is basically alcohol that would absorb the water and help pass it through the system. However, if you have ethanol in your gas it would probably be self clearing.

The 2008 Rev 3 parts book shows a spacer between the intake manifold and reed valve for the 250/ 270. It does not show one for the 200. Do all 250/ 270s have the spacer? How thick is it? Has anyone tried removing it?

The Evo manual shows a pusher/ puller for removing the crank. I was able to make a plate that mounts to the cases. I bolted an existing puller to the plate so it was not that much work. FWIW, the Evo manual is almost an exact match to a 2008 Rev 3. http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/beta/Trials%20service%20manuals/2010-2011_evo2t.pdf

The crank gear has a tapered ID and is attached by a bolt to a tapered shaft. There are no location features like a Woodruff Key. This little gizmo worked great. Even at 120 NM, the tool looked fine when done. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0427/

When you say a good pop, do you mean on throttle, idling along or when chopping throttle? I have not been on a 250 Rev 3 but an evo I rode did not have the pop. It had the ring ding ding. Could the pop be normal? I have heard other bikes do it a little. I suspect that manufacturers use older model parts on bikes that are not their top of the line...like the Beta 200. But, it does seem odd that the 200 crank would have more metal/ mass. I have been through all tuning variables I could think of; timing, jetting, compression, squish, etc.

This is a 2008 200cc model. After, installing an earlier model (03?) 250cc top end, there is an annoying POP POP POP POP in the exhaust when chopping the throttle. This is accompanied by some surging and the popping basically replaced the normal ring ding ding ding. Otherwise, it runs fine. After leak testing and adjusting all possible tuning variables, the pop remains the same. The bigger bore would raise the primary compression ratio so I thought that there may be stuffers that could be removed. There are no stuffers so I'm wondering if the 250 crank is different. Are there any suggestions?

Does anyone know if a 250 or 270 crank has more holes in it than this 200 crank? I was expecting stuffers but there are none.

I had not thought about locktite. The hex is way too small for an impact driver but about 5 minutes with a heat gun did the trick. thanks!

Are there any recommendations on removing the stop cam on a Rev3? This is the aluminium gizmo under the clutch cover and on the end of the shift drum. It is retained by what looks like a flat head screw but moderate force is not getting the screw to move.

I have a gold RK o-ring chain on a 2008 Rev3. At first it rubbed the brake so I reversed the master link and bent the brake pedal slightly so all is good.

I went from Bieffe to Shiro to Airoh. Vents definitely help but not as much as you would expect. Trials is slow speed so there is not a lot of air flow to use. Second,the helmets do not have intake and output ports like street helmets. The vents are more like windows that allow some heat to radiate out. I agree that the Shiro is not real high quality while the Airoh is but that may be reflected in the price.

Weight back,very slow, place front wheel on top of the log and give a tiny blip of throttle...just enough so the log does not get caught between front wheel and skid plate. Slide over on the skid plate and the back wheel will stop you. You then have some time to decide if you are pointed in the right direction before rolling off. However, I doubt this technique works with a '64 Pan. If it does, post pictures.

I have a 1/2" impact gun and have used it for removing similar things. I have always used a torque wrench for replacement. Are you saying you use the impact gun for installation? How do you avoid over torquing and/ or breaking things?

I mean the odd tool with teeth for removing and retorquing the clutch hub and primary gear.

Does anyone sell the special tool?