mcman56

If they are the same as the 08 rev 3, you need to remove the cartridge on one side and drain it of oil prior to filling the forks with the recommended volume. If not, you will have too much oil. The cartridge also needs to be bled of air during the refill process. The owner's manual states this but it is very easy to miss. The cartridge comes out easily but if you don't want to remove it, you could fill by level instead of volume. The 08 manual shows a level measurement but incorrectly states one side is done with the spring installed. General agreement is that it is done with the spring removed.

My cheepie 30 ton press groaned when pressing apart a C15 crank.

Has anyone changed the oil in a non leaking Rev3 shock? Was there an improvement? Are specs on oil level and gas pressure available?

Level as in oil level below top of fork tube, 60 mm and 120 mm

Under Armour heat gear is the lightest, quickest to evaporate mositure that I have found at least in very hot dry conditions (90 to 105F). It is cooler than the vented (with holes) MX jerseys at elast when riding trials as in going slow.

You are right. I looked at the instructions agaion and the cartridge needs to be removed to be drained. I must have done that last time.

I'm changing fork oil and have some confusion. The manual says 370cc in the right leg. However, with fork and cartridge rod compressed 370 will over flow the tube. Is 370 not correct? (I did pump the rod and fork to purge air.) I plan to set the final volume by the 60 mm height but am concerned that the 370 number is not close. The sad thing is that I have done this before and do not remember.

I have seen a 22 and a 24 and it definitely related to choke size on the ones I saw. The oval bore on the 24 was taller. You can modify the bore of a 22 to match the 24 but also have to take a cut off the top of the slide to get it fully open. The difference in slide height could explain why they cast the numbers on the top plate. I did not get to measure the 24 top plate so maybe they used a shorter stop on the top plate rather than a shorter slide. Could your model have come with a 20 mm carb? (I'm not sure how they get just a diameter for an oval shape.)

From my understanding, US TL125s all use the same basic 22 mm Keihin carb. I have one of an unknown year and a Reflex carb and they are also the same. The big difference is that the Reflex came with a non adjustable needle. To get an adjustable needle, I purchased one of the NOS Keyster carb kits from ebay for an SL125 and the needle fit. (Kester quality does not look as good as Keihin quality.) I see different kits listed for different 125 models but suspect the difference is the jet sizes. This same carb was sold in a 24 mm version. It uses the same casting but the oval bore is taller and therefore symmetric when looking at the engine side of the carb. I don't know what models these came on. Is your carb marked with 22 on top by the cable entrance?

I struggled with this when riding a BSA after being used to a modern bike. I found that purposfully dragging the rear brake slightly in sections tended to activate the part of my brain that realized the brake was on the other side.

Certainly not the same bike but I had a 97 TXT 270 that had a similar throttle response. The little hit seemed top happen just when I did not want it like in a tight turn. An overly rich pilot jet helped a little. The cheapest dual stage Boyseen reeds totally eliminated the little hit and made it smooth from idle on up.

I have used 660 bronze to replace dog bone bearings. On 02 Shercos and GGs you can also fit in grease fittings for regular greasing. If there is additional friction, it is not enough to notice. Some rose joints come threaded for grease fittings but I have not found them in the small size required.

I had a silmilar issue with the helicoils for the rear skid plate mounts on a Rev3. EZ lok worked great. As I remember, the pilot hole size for the EZ Lok was the perfect size to clean out the threads for the helicoil without removing any extra material. (10 mm screw?) It also used a standard sized tap as opposed to some other brands that required special taps.

Fasdr - I went from a Sherco 290 to the Beta 200. On the 200, it was harder to do semi vertical wall type obstacles, like 4 feet high or so. On the larger bike, I could chop the throttle at the bottom and the larger engine would continue to pull me up. On the 200, I would have to continue to use throttle to make it to the top. This created another task for my small brain to manage and posed a risk of using too much throttle and flipping over. This was not too bad a sea level but made me pretty uncomfortable at 5500 feet elevation. At around 7500 feet the 200 felt quite weak and I had problems with it bogging when opening the throttle. Even small logs were an issue. I did add a bolt on flywheel weight when going to 250cc so that is part of the equation. As a 250, the Beta was more like my old Sherco. The only negative is that it takes more effort to kick. There was another posting on this issue a while back and someone suggested that 270s had an extra weight. Spatwydawg - The crank and rod do have different part numbers on the parts list. From what I can tell, the difference is the bronze bush pressed into the rod small end. It is not shown as a separate part on the 200 list. The only economical way is to buy a used top end of the desired size. They show up on ebay but for me shipping UK to US was not cheap. The cylinder I used does not match the year of the bike. I noticed that Beta sold 270 kits for 250s but there were different kits for different year bikes. I never found out what the differences were.

I went 200 to 250 on a 2008 Rev3. Looking at the manual for the evo, it is pretty much the same engine except that the coolant connection on the head points in a different direction. In addition to the 200 top end, the small end of the rod is bushed down to accept the smaller 200 wrist pin bearing. (that may be gudgeon pin to you) I think trialsandtribulations sells (sold?) a special overside bearing that eliminates the need for the bushing. The carb was the same on the rev3. I have only seen one 125 evo but it had the same PWK28 that the bigger bikes have so the carb may be the same also.

I'm not running the linkage but did replace the two pieces recommended by tlmark. Shifting does feel more secure but now I have a bit of clutch drag so it is hard to tell. The clutch components looked like new and I reassembled with correct placing of steel and fiber plates. However, I did not ensure that the plates were in the exact same place as in fiber plate #1 may now be fiber plate #3 etc. Could this need a little run in to loosen up?

How does the 300cc 4t compare to a 250cc 2t in kicking effort? Is it harder or easier? Overall, is it harder or easier to start? Is the kicker higher or lower from the ground? The 2t kicker is a bit high up for those with short legs.

Over time, finding neutral when stopped on my TLR has become very very difficult. Is this likely a clutch issue? If it needs replacement are there any options to OEM Honda? On the flip side, it is easy to get hung up in neutral when shifting from 2nd to 1st while moving. Is this normal? It may be getting worse over time also.

This is all great input and things to think about. Dragging the rear brake is easier on modern bikes so that must be a part of it or maybe a way to work around it. Looking for play, the front sprocket seems fairly loose/ wobbely on the splined shaft. A newish, low mile sprocket feels kind of the same so maybe that is normal. My Rev3 has a much tighter fit in that area. Is there any way to tighten this up? The chain tensioner spring also seems pretty weak. Would a new one help or is it even available? Is it possible to take out a coil or two out?

You can skim the head on a lathe. To avoid an increase in compression, base gasket thickness can be increased. Beta sells them in different thicknesses.

I have a Reflex version of the TLR200 and am feeling some drive line free play. I notice it when rolling off and then on the throttle. There is a point in the middle when the engine does not feel connected to the ground for some short time period. It makes precise control difficult when it gets reconnected. It is really noticeable when riding it after coming off a modern bike. I don't think it was always like that but am not 100% sure. I have replaced the bushes for the rear sprocket and the chain tensioner is adjusted per the manual. Is this normal? Is there any kind of cushion drive in the clutch that could be loose?

Green sticker registration is good to ride all year any where in state on public lands. Red sticker can not ride in high smog areas in high smog times, basically summer near cities in valleys. All bikes 2002 and earlier are OK for green stickers. For newer bikes, including 4t enduro type bikes, manufacturers have to go to a lot of trouble to get them green sticker qualified. Based on the number of trials bikes they can sell in CA, it probably is not worth the expense. Sad but true.

Did you buy it in CA? I thought there was a new law last year requiring the dealer to obtain registration.

Will the new 4rt be CA green sticker compliant?

I have reused them successfully but also used a sealer. http://www.2wheelpros.com/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-9-oz-2359961.html?gclid=CJHr4_SbzrsCFYVlfgodQDMANg