mcman56

I'm at a point where the double blip is not adequate to get up some obstacles. I just can not twist the throttle fast enough. I see the need for a zap with clutch dump but realize that in order to release the clutch, it must first be pulled in. So, when do you pull in the clutch? I have not been able to convince myself to do this when the front wheel is far away from the obstacle. It feels like I'm trying to crash. I can sort of do it after the front wheel has touched (stab and release) but that seems a bit late. Are there any easy progressive ways to learn this? I have no natural tallent for this support so the learning process is slow. What I think I'm doing or trying to do may be quite different from what I'm actually doing.

A friend recently had a Beta 125. The engine response was surprisingly quick, quicker than my 250 rev3. It started easily, had nice suspension and handled well. He did better on it than on his previous 250. It did not have much of a flywheel so he said it does take more use of the clutch. It also felt very light and easy to ride.

In my experience sputtering usually means rich fuel mixture. In the video, it also looked like there was a little black smoke which also means unburned fuel. Was the old plug black? Is the air filter clean? Did the bike previously run well with the current carb settings? (jets, needle position, etc.) Dirt in the system will usually create lean conditions not rich. From what you say, it cleans out at higher rpms. It could be a leaky float needle/ seat or improperly adjusted float. It certainly does not sound like a weak spark but a fully retarded timing may possibly do some thing like that. Could the stator place have come loose and changed the timing?

I have seen where people have rebuilt Gas Gas mid mufflers so decided to give it a go on a Rev 3. There is much less space in the rev 3 muffler between the perforated pipe and the outer housing. The packing was wrapped around the perforated pipe and not in real bad shape so it was a major PITA to remove. Much time was spent tearing and pulling with long needle nose pliers and a wire hook for installing springs. There was a lot of carbon dust/ dirt mixed in with the steel wool. It was replaced with course stainless steel wool from eBay. It was pretty easy to push the new wool back behind the perforated tube. Patches were made from 0.032" 2024 T0 aluminum and riveted on with high temp RTV for sealant. The T0 material is very soft and sort of like thick aluminum foil used in the kitchen. My sheet metal skills are not great so the patches are not pretty but cannot be seen when mounted on the bike. The end result is a quieter bike with smoother off idle power.

The only way to check condition was to open it up but a burn out may have worked. The inner tube and inner portion of steel wool was coated with what looked like tar, basically sealing the inner tube. On this muffler, part of the inner tube was a constant ID. The other has a bulge sort of like a powerbomb shape.

I have seen several posts on repacking mid mufflers, Gas Gas or Sherco. I decided to give it a go on a Rev3 and cut a couple of windows in the pipe. The packing right at the windows comes out OK but the stuff in the back is very difficult to get out. The center, though pipe, is not a lot smaller than the Aluminium housing so there is much less room than what I have seen for Gas Gas and Sherco. To make it worse, the through pipe is made of two pieces like the front exhaust pipe so has a lip where tht two pieces meet. The steel wool packing is wrapped pretty tight. The best method I have found is pullin with one of the hard wire hooks used for installing springs followed by ripping and tearing with long needle nose pliers. This is a very slow porcess. Is there a better way?

Moving the bars back definitely helped.

These clamps mount with a single bolt going down from the top. They were pretty easy to move. I'll try it this weekend. I have thought of higher bars but am quite short with arms on the long side for my height. But, it is worth a try so that could be next.

steve_earle - Thanks, I did not realize the position was adjustable. I'll give that a try.

I weigh 155 lbs. I lowered the fork oil level to the spec for the 125 but it is still stiffer than my old rev3.

Does anyone make rubber mounts or anything similar that would provide some cushion for the bars. Front wheel landings are a bit hard on my arms and casing on a hard rock really sends shock right to the handlebars and into may arms.

How do you get the CDI out of a 2008 Rev 3? It is jammed up in the front of the frame and it is hard to see. Does it jsut slide out of a sleeve? What od you have to remove to get access?

I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method. However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex. What exactly is it? Is there just one type? If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?

Has anyone found a small battery powered fan that could be mounted to one of the vents in the Airoh? I have looked but found nothing.

I have made bushings for Sherco and Gas Gas out of 660 bronze. There is room to install grease fittings and without seals you can flush the bushings with grease like old usa cars. This eliminates the need to disassemble to grease. I notice no difference in friction but am no high level rider either.

The R37 may be a casting number used by the manufacturer who cast the cylinder. Rev3s have a 2 digit cast number that appears to represent the year the casting mold was made. They tend to show a number 1 or 2 years older than the bike. It probably depends on how quickly a cylinder can go from making the mold to getting delivered on a bike plus what ever inventory is held.

Removing 2 grams of wire will let me get up obstacles 1 foot taller....won't it?

Any update?

I had this with a rev 3 and after pulling the forks off could see the fork tubes were moving in the clamps a little bit. I polished with scotchbright, cleaned throughly, reassembled, torqued to specification and the sound was gone. A couple of years later, a similar sound came back and it turned out to be a loose nut on the top of the steeing stem.

I have painted the springs on original Reflex shocks with good results and no flaking. I sand blasted them first and then used standard rustolem spray primer and paint. Getting paint to stick to chrome may be mre difficult.

Do you really have to remove the mid muffler to get the air box out on a 2008 rev3 200?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261981283404

The other CDI has no curve and the bike runs the same. I still do not know if the OEM CDI should have a curve or not. The aftermarket was on: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/20032008-Beta-250-Rev-3-CDI-Unit-1

The aftermarket one is a combo CDI/ coil but has the same lack of a curve. The Beta CDI has 4 wires vs the 6 wires I have seen on a diagram listed by Dan W. There is one two pin connector and two seperate wires, one of which looks like the kill button connection.

I have found a couple of advance curves on line for trials bikes, one for Beta and one for Sherco. They show curves like a 4 stroke so I guess mine should have something similar. I could not find a Beta OEM CDI online but did find an aftermarket one. They could not tell me what type of curve it has but I ordered one anyway and will see what happens. http://www.leonelli.com/english/028%20CDI%20DIGITAL/028%20INGLES/028%20VOK.E-ING.pdf