mcman56

Splatshop sells the Keihin. You will also need a new throttle cable. The intake manifold (carb to reed block) is longer for the Keihin so you need the later manifold. If you are really ambitious, you can make a spacer for the original manifold. You can get a Keihin with a right side idle speed screw or modify an existing carb. However, you can not reach the idle mixture screw. Splat shop sells a mixture screw with a piece of flexible cable attached so it can be wrapped around and used from the other side. (Hard to explain but easy to understand once you see the picture.) mid-atlantictrials sells an OKO version of the Keihin for much less money. Quality not quite up to Keihin standards but still quite good. I have run the 26 OKO and 28 Keihin. They run about the same but the 28 may give slightly more acceleration. (There are lower quality "look alike" copies of the OKO and I suspect that is where some people have found really bad quality.) The conversion is not cheap and plenty of people seem to have good running Rev 3s with Mikuni carbs.

The 200 Rev 3 is the same as the 250 with a smaller cylinder. I believe the Techo is the same. The small end of the rod has a bronze bushing to reduce the ID to fit the smaller 200 gudgeon pin. I thought I saw where somone was selling an over sized needle bearing that would do the same thing. Worst case, you could get a new bush made.

With more preload, I ended up with about 75 mm of sag. With riding gear and camelback it is probably just about 80. Pushing up the back should get the linkage in a more progressive area of travel but I don't know what the progression curve looks like for this bike. The change definitely makes the back end feel more lively. Better riders should really like it..... but, for me, I'm not so sure. It will take a couple of rides to decide.

I have a 2014 factory 300. After a few rides I checked the race sag and found about 50%. I used the published 7.1" of travel to calculate. I tried to add preload to get to 33% but it looks like I'm running out of threads on the shock body and don't want to damage anything. I did get to 40% with about 1/2" of bike only sag but would like to get to that 33%. The odd thing is that I only weigh 155 lbs so would think it would be easy to adjust for little sag. Could this bike have come with a light spring or is this normal? If you keep on adding compresstion can you damage teh threads on the shock?

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/26708-suspension-linkage-bearings/page-3 This was the prototype with custom made links. The final version used the OEM Sherco links. On a 2002 Sherco, the front grease fitting can be a 90 degree fitting facing down. The rear can face straight back. The bushing should have a groove in the center of the ID to allow grease to travel around the full circumference. On an 02 Gas Gas, I think I had to use the low profile type grease fittings that use sort of a pin to inject grease.

My throttle side forearm has been sore and I'm working on recovery. Right now, the worst part is when the front wheel lands after going over a log or similar obstacle. I can really feel the impact and am sure it is not helping recovery. Is there a technque to minimize this impact or at least make this easier on your arms? I try to unload the back as much as possible to minimize the rear wheel impact on the log and the resulting rotation/ front wheel landing impact. I also try to get far back on the bike and try to absorb some of that impact with my feet on the pegs. Still, there always seems to be some point bodyweight is shifted to the front of the bike and and arms have to take the load. Keeping the front wheel high and landing both wheels at the same time helps but it takes up more space in a section.

Do the Braktec master cylinders require Bractec specific levers? Will Grimeca or other types fit?

How deep is the damage? If not too deep, you may be able to remachine the top surface of the barrel including the o-ring grooves. It would be a simple machining task. You would then run a thicker base gasket to compensate for the shorter barrel. This would alter the port timing a little. A head spacer as sold in the past to reduce compression and soften power would be another way to compensate for the height and it would not alter timing. (I ran a 1/16" head spacer on my daughters Techno with good succcess.) If going with a thicker base gasket, you would want to make sure the threads in the head were still deep enough for the bolts. Worst case, you could run 2 copper washers on each bolt.

Does anyone have advice on how to get used to progressive lenses while riding trials? Or is it a bad idea in general? I have the common failing of close up vision that comes with age. I normally wear progressive lenses but do not wear any glasses to ride or drive on the street or in the dirt. Distance vision is probably starting to fade a little so I started to think wearing glasses to ride may be a good idea and gave it a try. Problem number one is that all obstacles look at least 30% bigger. They really magnify the bottom portion of an obsacle where it first becomes vertical. The second problem is that looking up and down by rotating your eyes produces a different view than rotating your head. (because you are looking though a different portion of the lens) This means that one particular obstacle or line can look two different ways and is disturbing to whatever part of my brain process this and needs to make control decisions. I had a good fall yesterday and think that progressive lenses were at least part of the problem. When first wearing progressive lenses at work, stairs were very difficult in a similar way to what I'm describing for riding. However, I could take them off for stairs before finally adapting.

Not the same animal but I ran a Beta VM26 on an early model C15. Selecting a needle was the hard part. I ended up with a 5F3 needle one step from full lean, 35 pilot and 130 main. The engine had road bike cam with compression around 9:1. This produced a strong idle, smooth mid range and good HP when wound up. By contrast, I could never get a TLR200 carb to run properly. Idle was always rich and felt weak. This bike felt like it had very heavy flywheels so response was much slower that a TLR200 regardless of carb.

The Reflex has a gear in the brake plate that drives the speedo cable. Does anyone know how this comes out? It looks like it is some kind of press fit into a flat bottom hole.

It worked last night but when I tried to place an order this morning I got the message below. I can get to a sub page but get the same message when trying to log on. How do you contact a website owner when the website is down? Secure Connection Failed An error occurred during a connection to trialstribulations.net. SSL received a record that exceeded the maximum permissible length. (Error code: ssl_error_rx_record_too_long) The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because the authenticity of the received data could not be verified. Please contact the website owners to inform them of this problem.

Interesting. I'm in the US and can not connect from PC or phone.

I have not been able to get on Trialstribulations web site for a couple of days. Has something changed or are they just having web site issues? If something has changed, is there someone else that offers Beta parts on line like them?

My 2008 was like that. The bush should be a press fit in the rod and a slip fit on the pin. The crank assembly is the same for the 200 and 250 but the 200 piston uses a smaller pin. The bushing reduces the size and may add weight to help offset for the lighter piston/ pin. The 2008 parts list does not accurately represent this and shows the 125 & 200 using the same needle bearing. Just looking at the list, the bushing is likely 16-22-22. I believe someone (trialsand tribulations ?) sold a needle bearing that may replace the bushing.

Interesting, the peg on that side was bent back a litttle. I straightened it and will give it a try. thanks

It is probably a riding technique error but my Rev3 chain eventually saws a hole through my boot. The swing arm also looks polished in that area on both sides so I must hug the bike a little but never feel interference when riding. My feet are little so it is not a size issue. I had a leather patch sewn on but now it has sawed through that. Can anyone recommend a more permanent fix? Would some kind of plastic work?

You should just be able to jumper the thermal switch and see if the fan comes on. I have had to replace the switch on a much newer Beta.

If they are the same as the 08 rev 3, you need to remove the cartridge on one side and drain it of oil prior to filling the forks with the recommended volume. If not, you will have too much oil. The cartridge also needs to be bled of air during the refill process. The owner's manual states this but it is very easy to miss. The cartridge comes out easily but if you don't want to remove it, you could fill by level instead of volume. The 08 manual shows a level measurement but incorrectly states one side is done with the spring installed. General agreement is that it is done with the spring removed.

My cheepie 30 ton press groaned when pressing apart a C15 crank.

Has anyone changed the oil in a non leaking Rev3 shock? Was there an improvement? Are specs on oil level and gas pressure available?

Level as in oil level below top of fork tube, 60 mm and 120 mm

Under Armour heat gear is the lightest, quickest to evaporate mositure that I have found at least in very hot dry conditions (90 to 105F). It is cooler than the vented (with holes) MX jerseys at elast when riding trials as in going slow.

You are right. I looked at the instructions agaion and the cartridge needs to be removed to be drained. I must have done that last time.

I'm changing fork oil and have some confusion. The manual says 370cc in the right leg. However, with fork and cartridge rod compressed 370 will over flow the tube. Is 370 not correct? (I did pump the rod and fork to purge air.) I plan to set the final volume by the 60 mm height but am concerned that the 370 number is not close. The sad thing is that I have done this before and do not remember.