mcman56

I put fat bars on a 02 Sherco. Using Pro Taper Suzuki Factory/ KtM bars and adaptors, bar position was almost exactly the same. The extra flex was easier on hands and forearms.

I only pulled off one side of the cases from the crank. I had to make a pull fixture to "push" the crank out of the case half. It did not go easily and wanted to tilt and jam so took a bit of time.

It was a tapered shaft fit so I expected it to be difficult like a flywheel. However, it came apart very easily...surprisingly easy. I just tapped it with a light brass hammer and then pried up with screw drivers. (being careful not to damage the gasket surface) This was a 2008 that started as a 200.

A little water can do this and be very hard to see or find in the system. I have seen a little drop stuck in a pilot jet. On one bike I drained and air dryed the entire system but still had the problem. Finally a can of dry gas cleared the water. Dry gas has differferent names but is basically alcohol that would absorb the water and help pass it through the system. However, if you have ethanol in your gas it would probably be self clearing.

The 2008 Rev 3 parts book shows a spacer between the intake manifold and reed valve for the 250/ 270. It does not show one for the 200. Do all 250/ 270s have the spacer? How thick is it? Has anyone tried removing it?

The Evo manual shows a pusher/ puller for removing the crank. I was able to make a plate that mounts to the cases. I bolted an existing puller to the plate so it was not that much work. FWIW, the Evo manual is almost an exact match to a 2008 Rev 3. http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/beta/Trials%20service%20manuals/2010-2011_evo2t.pdf

The crank gear has a tapered ID and is attached by a bolt to a tapered shaft. There are no location features like a Woodruff Key. This little gizmo worked great. Even at 120 NM, the tool looked fine when done. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0427/

When you say a good pop, do you mean on throttle, idling along or when chopping throttle? I have not been on a 250 Rev 3 but an evo I rode did not have the pop. It had the ring ding ding. Could the pop be normal? I have heard other bikes do it a little. I suspect that manufacturers use older model parts on bikes that are not their top of the line...like the Beta 200. But, it does seem odd that the 200 crank would have more metal/ mass. I have been through all tuning variables I could think of; timing, jetting, compression, squish, etc.

This is a 2008 200cc model. After, installing an earlier model (03?) 250cc top end, there is an annoying POP POP POP POP in the exhaust when chopping the throttle. This is accompanied by some surging and the popping basically replaced the normal ring ding ding ding. Otherwise, it runs fine. After leak testing and adjusting all possible tuning variables, the pop remains the same. The bigger bore would raise the primary compression ratio so I thought that there may be stuffers that could be removed. There are no stuffers so I'm wondering if the 250 crank is different. Are there any suggestions?

Does anyone know if a 250 or 270 crank has more holes in it than this 200 crank? I was expecting stuffers but there are none.

I had not thought about locktite. The hex is way too small for an impact driver but about 5 minutes with a heat gun did the trick. thanks!

Are there any recommendations on removing the stop cam on a Rev3? This is the aluminium gizmo under the clutch cover and on the end of the shift drum. It is retained by what looks like a flat head screw but moderate force is not getting the screw to move.

I have a gold RK o-ring chain on a 2008 Rev3. At first it rubbed the brake so I reversed the master link and bent the brake pedal slightly so all is good.

I went from Bieffe to Shiro to Airoh. Vents definitely help but not as much as you would expect. Trials is slow speed so there is not a lot of air flow to use. Second,the helmets do not have intake and output ports like street helmets. The vents are more like windows that allow some heat to radiate out. I agree that the Shiro is not real high quality while the Airoh is but that may be reflected in the price.

Weight back,very slow, place front wheel on top of the log and give a tiny blip of throttle...just enough so the log does not get caught between front wheel and skid plate. Slide over on the skid plate and the back wheel will stop you. You then have some time to decide if you are pointed in the right direction before rolling off. However, I doubt this technique works with a '64 Pan. If it does, post pictures.

I have a 1/2" impact gun and have used it for removing similar things. I have always used a torque wrench for replacement. Are you saying you use the impact gun for installation? How do you avoid over torquing and/ or breaking things?

I mean the odd tool with teeth for removing and retorquing the clutch hub and primary gear.

Does anyone sell the special tool?

Looking at the Evo manual, there are 3 special tools required to get the crankshaft out; primary gear puller, motor shaft puller and special primary tool. The two pullers look not to difficult to make but the special primary tool would be a big challenge. Are these tools really needed or would other methods work? Is that special tool steel?

When I bought the smaller sprocket, it came with instructions and a thinner seal for installation behind the sprocket. I did have to cut back the case for clearance. The sprocket and seal came from C&D. I can probably dig up the seal numbers if it would be helpful.

Does anyone know if the 200 crank has any kind of stuffers?

The Evo manual shows a 20 - 23 NM that seems to apply to all models. If you are using an extension on your torque wrench to reach the bolts, this affects the numbers. The torque reading on the wrench needs to be reduced based on the length of the extension. Could someone have installed aluminum head bolts? With steel bolts, I would expect the threads in the cylinder to strip long before the bolts break. It a could be bad wrench. I have found the cheap ratchet type wrenches to be very inconsistent. Beam types are much better.

was there not some issue with that small a sprocket not clearing the drive shaft properly ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have heard that the small sprocket can allow the chain to rub on the engine case. To eliminate that risk, you can make a spacer to keep the sprocket towards the outside of the shaft. PVC pipe is the simplest. If you want to get fancy, the OEM outer plate for locking the sprocket in place can be made round on the OD and then placed on the inside as a spacer. This will put the force on the splines and not risk rubbing the seal. I think I have two on mine.

The inexpensive way to go is to use the OEM rear sprocket with a 9 tooth front for 9/44.

Can a Rev 3 crank seals be replaced without splitting the cases? If so, how do you pull the old one out?