mcman56

I put in new cam plate. It looked a little different from the original, like it may engage further. It also had a newer part number than the original parts list. This is a distributor model. I did not see why it would make a difference but swapped the shift forks at the same time. The shifter now feels different when shifting, like more is going on. It worked OK during an hour ride so hopefully it is cured.

I find the Camelback Rogue to be just the right size. It has a 70 oz capacity and can carry several hands full of stuff. The Camelback also serves as nice back/ spine protection if you happen to flip over backwards. I have done several tests of that function.

I'm struggling with a similar issue on a C15. See the post above. I have it apart again and noticed that the shift forks look interchangeable. Could you have switched yours when it was apart. One may be bent or worn differently than the other.

I have the book but I can't find anything on adjusting the quadrant. I pulled the quadrant out but still do not see what to adjust. The two plungers look to be located in holes with no adjustment potential. The plate with the screw just seems to hold them in place. One interesting thing is that on one side, opposite the plunger, the flat surface is built up with about 1/16" of what looks like brazing. This area contacts the built up flats in the engine cases to limit the shifter travel. It is on the side that would limit travel on up shifts and I can't imagine why someone would do that. Thanks for your help with this.

How do you adjust the pawls? I don't see anything to adjust?

Would this be the bush in the main engine cases? Mine is the early style transmission,1960. The later ones seem to have more options for shimming. One odd thing about this transmission is that it has the wide ratio first gear and close ratio gears 3 through 4th.

My c15 slips out of 1st under a light load. So far at least, it has not done this under hard throttle. There are no sounds or jumps, it just sort of slips into neutral. I pulled it apart and the cam plate had a little defect where it catches the spring in first gear so I cleaned it up square with a carbide end mill. It seemed OK but after getting hot it started slipping out again. The cam plate has no BSA or part number markings. I have ordered a new one. The bike was dead when I got it and so I did a total disassembly with replacement of any suspect parts. If it was anything obvious I probably would have seen it. It does not slip out of other gears or have any other shifting issues.

Marking your practice sections makes them more competition like. Home builder stores in the US sell little colored flags for marking the ground before digging. I think they are in the pipe/ irrigation section. They are small, cheap, easy to carry and easy to stick in the ground. It is surprising how the markers make it more difficult.

You can use plastic tie wraps in place of the bolts. Some people even use plastic rivets but I have not tried that. The plastic rivets may be available for automobile interiors.

Following advice on this site, I sent the stator off to West Country Windings. They confirmed it was dead and rewound for 93 pounds including shipping. It arrived back two weeks after I shipped it too them. This has cured the odd bog issue, at least in a backyard test.

Does the Rev3 come with fork stops? I see threaded holes in the frame by the forks but no stops. Would anyone have a picture? I tend to slam the forks pretty hard to the side and have lost the little grill/ eyeball thing that snaps in the frame several times. I assume the fork tube hits.

I am looking at using an AMAL concentric on a C15. Overall the carb looks OK. The slide has no visible uneven wear but it is a loose fit in the carb body. It probably has close to 1/6" movement when pushed back and forth, front to back. Is this normal for a 376 carb? If not normal, can I just replace the slide? What is the carb body made of? It is heavy like cast iron. Correction...this is a mono block. The slide is light like aluminum.

The bike started easily and had a very strong healthy idle. It was maybe OK when slowly opening the throttle but with a quick twist would bog. A quick twist brought an increase in rpm followed by sort of shutting off until the throttle was returned. I cleaned the carb twice by disassembling, using carb cleaner and high pressure air. All passages that could be seen were open to the eye and flowed air. The first cleaning included an air box cleaning and a look down the intake at the reeds. The second cleaning included raising the needle two positions. Neither had an effect. So..I pulled the stator cover and flywheel. It was very dirty inside and had some corrosion. The dirt was stuck on like it was wet when it got dirty. The stator itself looked OK. I cleaned it up with a tooth brush, contact cleaner. and an air hose. Upon reassembly there was no spark. Checking continunity wire to wire and wire to ground, the only connection is 1 ohm between the yellow wire and ground. I guess I need a rewind. I do have a couple of questions. 1. The parts list shows no gasket for the stator cover. On other brands, I have always used silicone in addition to whatever gasket was there. What is recommended for Beta? (I am aware of the acetic acid given off by RTV and the possible ill effects on electronics but have never had an issue.) 2. The rotor says Slovenia. Who makes ignitions in Slovenia?

That is how I did my 2008. Make sure and pump all of the air out of the right fork before measuring the height. It seemed to take a while. Set up like this, it was a little harsh for me (at 155 lbs). I lowered the height in the left tube from 120 mm to 5" and it seems just right.

This is a Mikuni, 27.5 and 145. What are the symptoms of a bad stator? On throttle is probably the same thing as high combustion pressure to fire a plug.

I have had a 08 rev 3 200 for a few months and it has run OK at sea level and 1200 feet. Last weekend I rode a trial at 5500 feet and the power felt "flat" or soft. So I tried very quickly opening the throttle and it would bog and then ping when the throttle was shut. Back to sea level, I have cleaned the carb twice, raised the needle two notches and still have the same result. I'm not that quick on the throttle so it may have always been that way. The plug looks slightly rich. My question is, what else could cause that symptom? It seems that stator issues would mimic rich. The idle is very strong so I would think that rules out crank seals. Could this just be a lean pilot jet? Adjusting the mixture screw has almost zero effect.

I just switched from a 290 to a 200 and like it everywhere except for big steps. I suspect that the technique is different but could use some input. The obstacles are about 4' tall granite with a little bit of slope. They are either tall enough or maybe the slope is enough that you do not have to worry about hitting the bash plate. On the 290, I could approach at a walking speed, hit the step part way up with the front wheel, use a fair amount of throttle until the back wheel hit, chop the throttle and let the flywheel pull me up. The 200 has less initial punch when the front wheel hits the step and lacks the flywheel to just pull the bike up. Staying on the throttle gives the sensation of flipping over backwards. Engine response is really sweet on the 200 so I don't think a flywheel weight would be an adequate solution.

I recently completed a C15 and had a difficult time getting the rings to seat. I was finally advised to assemble the cylinder dry and run it at 2500 or so rpm until hot. The result was no smoke followed by lots of smoke. After allowing it to cool, I restarted and it has been smoke free. The rings also had a very slight taper from top to bottom that was difficult to see on the first look.

According the the specs, the Beta 200 is a sleeved down 250. The GG "200" is a bored out 125. Looking strictly at part numbers, there is no commonality among any of the engine sizes. Interestingly, the 200 forks have a different part number also. Could this be different damping or maybe an older style fork. I realize that this would be an experiment but would like to have a complete 250 top end to work with. Did the cylinder head bolt pattern change from Techno or Zero?

I'm considering trying to install a Rev3 250 top end on a 200. I have the cylinder and piston but not a cylinder head. Does anyone know if heads from other models or years will fit? I would like to buy a used head.

The lower shock bearing is dry and crusty so I assume that is the issue. This does not appear to be a standard size. Could it be a Beta only bearing? 14 x 26

My 08 Rev 3 has developed an odd squeak. It sounds like it comes from the bottom rear of the skid plate. It happens when holding the rear brake and pushing down/ forward on the suspension. No matter how or what I try, I can not create the squeak with out the rear brake on. I tried a little penetrating oil around the shock bearings and swing arm bearings with no affect. Has anyone had this?

I converted an 02 290 using similar Pro Taper parts. With the adaptors and a factory Suzuki/ KTM bend bar, the grips come out in almost the same position as stock. I ran them for several years with no issues. The Protaper bar pad even covers up the adaptors. I did not put them on a scale but total weight was also less than the stock bar with cross bar.

I had the same issue with my TLR200 after putting on big pegs. I bent the kick lever so it goes out a little farther and clears the peg. The lever was held in a vise and heated red with a propane torch at the bend spot. I believe I used a long wrench as a lever arm. It took two ..or three bends. One was out to clear the peg. One was back up on the outside of the peg and there may have been a third to get the foot piece level. It works well.

You were correct. Upon inspection, I saw that the disk was pushed to one side when operating the brake. After removing the caliper and the pads from the caliper, I found that I could move both pistons by hand. I sprayed with WD40 to clean and then sprayed with brake cleaner to remove the WD40. Upon reassembly it worked well. I did not dissemble the caliper or remove the brake line. I'm surprised that a simple external procedure worked.